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fuel injectors wont inject fuel

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Old 10-07-2007, 08:51 PM
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Default fuel injectors wont inject fuel

Okay everyone,
I have an 89 hatch with a b18b1 swap.
I bought the car with the swap already done. Just recently while driving one night the car would sputter whenever I gave it gas. It eventually after a few seconds of sputtering would take off like normal. I thought it was just a batch of bad gas. I then filled up with some 91 and drove it to a friends house. The very next day I have my g/f take me to my friends house so I can bring the car home. I goto start it up and it won't start. So I check to see if its getting spark and it is. Next I check for fuel by smelling the spark plugs and I don't smell jack crap. So im like wtf......I grab the main fuel relay out of a 93 integra my friend has parked and try to start it up again and still nothing.The main relay gave three clicks like it should. So I put a 91 civic si ecu in and the car then starts up but it idles like crap.I goto give it gas and it sputters and dies. Not cool. At this point I realize that I may have burned up my first ecu which is okay....I then arm my nitrous system(nitrous bottle is closed) and start to spray fuel into the motor for like 5 seconds....start it up and it idles just fine...I goto drive it and after about 10 seconds it started sputtering again. So I shot more fuel in with the nitrous kit and it would run fine for about 20-30 seconds and then it would start to sputter again. So anyway I drove it home like this having to shoot fuel in through the nitrous system every 30 seconds or so.

Next day.
The car is home and safe just not running. I go out in the morning and try to start her up and I get nothing.It just cranks over and over.I pull the injector clips off because I was going to swap in some extra injectors I had when I realize the injectors that are installed are obd-1.My car has a fuel injector resistor box wired in...so Im like wtf again. So I pull out the resistor box and I wire the five wires together. Plug the clips back in and goto start the car and it runs for like half a second and then dies. The pm6 is throwing codes 16 and 20. I then install my obd-0 injectors and rewire the injector box.Start it up and nothing it just cranks.I then take my obd-1 injectors and hook them to the battery and they click when they get power. So I take the obd-0'z out and put the obd-1'z back in. I disconnect the resistor box and wire the five wires back together.I Plug in the pr4 ecu and try to start and the car turns on.....and runs!!! So im like okay it runs...I give it gas and it sputters for a second and then revs up...weird....but okay.After about a minute of running the car dies.I goto start it up and nothing it just cranks. I needed a testing light so out of desperation I clipped one of the sockets from the turning signals and used that. Yesssss!!! I hook up the light to the power wire and the four wires that came from the resistor box that are now spliced together and the light came on for two seconds when you put the ignition switch on then it goes out.Is it suppose to do that? or stay on? I then noticed that once the fuel pump primed that the fuel rail would leak where the injectors were.So I made a trip down to pepboys and bought the o-ring kit.That kit is 8.50 per injector.....thats highway robbery. Anyway I installed the new o-ring kits on the injectors and plugged everything back up. Goto start her up and it just cranks...and fuel is squirting all over the place. The o-rings are installed correctly...I'm thinking that the injectors aren't opening up and that causing the fuel rail to spray fuel everywhere.

Anyway
I start looking for open circuits through the wiring harness and I see my 0-2sensor wire broke near the fan...So I soldered that **** back together. I also found one of the wires that came from the injector resistor box was broken. I fixed that **** as well. I then pulled the two rings from the thermostat ground and tested them with my performance turn signal test light, and only one of those rings would actually work as a ground. I then went to the ecu and took the wires that go to that ground and soldered them together and grounded it inside the cabin. Hooked everything back up...goto start the car and nothing it just cranks. I open the ecu up and start inspecting **** and notice that some of the screws holding the board in are soldered but the solder was cracked on all of them so my friend resoldered all of the broken ones....I plugged it in and goto start it up and it just cranks. Thats when I called it a night. He took my obd-1 injectors home with him to see if they will run in his car.My question is.....wtf is wrong with my ****?

Cliff notes:
Car runs perfectly fine one day.
Next day car sputters when you give it gas but is still driveable.
Next day car dies when you give it gas.
Shoot fuel in through nitrous kit and car runs fine for about 30 secs.
Find out injector resistor box is being used with obd1 injectors.
put in obd-0 injectors,car still won't start with pm6
put in pr4
remove resistor box.(wired the five wires coming from box together)
Found broken wire going to injector from resistor box,fixed it.
Found broken 02 sensor wire,fixed it.
ran extra ground from thermostats ground wires.
Fuel rail leaks whenever it is pressurized.(despite the fact all seals are brand new)
Spark plugs have no fuel on them whatsoever.
car will not start....( I even held my tounge out while cranking it once to see if it would start like that) still nothing.
Old 10-08-2007, 08:23 AM
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nooone has any input?
Old 10-08-2007, 08:30 AM
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i would check each wire from the resistor box to the ecu. it should be like 1 or 2 wires, make sure the resistor box is getting that signal from the ecu

when first wiring my car it did that. i kept cranking it over, and one time it did start, but didnt afterwards. it turned out to be the one wire from the ecu to the resistor box

was this car a dx then converted?
Old 10-08-2007, 08:42 AM
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it was a dx and was converted. The wire that went to the resistor box gets power for 2 seconds while the fuel pump primes and then doesn't get power after that. Is it suppose to do that?
Old 10-08-2007, 08:52 AM
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Default Re: (uptownspeedstar)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uptownspeedstar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it was a dx and was converted. The wire that went to the resistor box gets power for 2 seconds while the fuel pump primes and then doesn't get power after that. Is it suppose to do that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm. not sure. im no where near my car to test it. damn college.

all i can think of would be wiring or a fuse.
Old 10-08-2007, 07:24 PM
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Okay so I bypassed the yellow/black wire going to the resistor box. Ran a power wire from a known 12v source to the 4 wires that went to the resistor box. Car started up. Fantastic! Now I have a leaky fuel rail. I have an edelbrock fuel rail made for dsm injectors but im using stock honda injectors. It didn't leak before i took everything apart but now where the injectors go into the rail it squirts fuel out like a super soaker. Anyone have any tips on how to put those thangs in there?
Old 10-08-2007, 07:31 PM
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Default Re: (uptownspeedstar)

HAHA, I had the same problem with my fuel rail. You need to use the right o rings or you get a fuel fountain!!!!!!

Make sure your o rings are metric and not standard!!!

Took me 3 tries with my aftermarket rail to get a leak free seal. Change the injector o rings.

Sounds like a bad fuel pump. Or its on its way out!
Old 10-08-2007, 09:19 PM
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I bought an o ring kit for the motor I have. Maybe I should buy an o-ring kit for a mitsubish?
Old 01-27-2008, 09:40 AM
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Default Re: (uptownspeedstar)

which yellow and black wire sends the signal from the computer... on obd1?? which "pinout" (12V)
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