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dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread

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Old 03-18-2017, 10:34 AM   #101
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Default Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread

Is that a solder only connector? There should be terminal options you can crimp, like OEM connectors. Lots of soldering that way! But the same result. Nice.

The ECT sensor uses the same connector as the IACV, and the IAT sensor. So you have a few options if you want to replace that guy. Should be easy to find. :D
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:00 PM   #102
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Is that a solder only connector? There should be terminal options you can crimp, like OEM connectors. Lots of soldering that way! But the same result. Nice.

The ECT sensor uses the same connector as the IACV, and the IAT sensor. So you have a few options if you want to replace that guy. Should be easy to find. :D
yeah the amphenol plugs i went with are both cup terminals only. i did look into deutsch connectors of a similar capacity that were removable pins which would have been a lot less of a pain to wire up but they were all considerably more expensive, plus the added cost of a deutsch specific crimping tool that was needed.
thanks for the advice, yeah i saw that it was a common 2 wire plug but i didnt have any spares around. i managed to depin the plug with broken wires and insert 2 better condition pins with simliar coloured wires lengths attached from a map sensor connector i had lying around. fit perfectly, only took about 10 minutes and the wires are much more flexible so hopefully shouldnt have any more issues with that.
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:19 PM   #103
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Default Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread

Nice build. Love to see a CRX getting cared for well. They're getting so rare these days, especially the SiRs!
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:48 AM   #104
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Nice build. Love to see a CRX getting cared for well. They're getting so rare these days, especially the SiRs!
thanks! trying to get it in the best condition i can
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:52 AM   #105
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here's the finished engine harness (minus the sensor labels). the sensor that broke off its brittle wires is up in the top left. hope i wired that back in right

also connected up the oil pressure and temperature sensors and ran the wiring through to the cabin. i've bundled the aftermarket sensor wires as well as the shielded distributor wires and larger gauge power/alternator/starter wires together and they're passing through the firewall just next to the amphenol plug,through a grommet like oem.

drilled and prepped a hole to fit a stainless O2 sensor bung at home, and took the pipe to uni with me and had the workshop weld it in. turned out much better than i would have done using my flux core mig.


took the tape off the exhaust ports and cleaned up the gasket surface. just realised i dont think i ever posted pics of the polished ports. you can kind of see it here. all carbon cleaned out, and sanded down/polished using small dremel tools. intake side of the head was left standard.


spent this afternoon sanding down and giving the exhaust manifold a bit of a polish. it's not seen that much use, maybe 10,000km so it was a nice shade of gold but it was covered with oil spots and dirty finger prints. unfortunately it's still got the ugly dual O2 sensors sticking out the side which i wont be using with hondata. I could remove them but i dont have any bung caps and cant be bothered buying any. it's just temporary until i try to work on a diy turbo manifold anyway. With the exhaust all installed i plugged in the wideband O2 sensor and ran that wiring through the cabin too.
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:05 AM   #106
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started looking at the braided hose and -an fittings over the weekend. i've never really messed around with -an fittings before so i'm not 100% sure if these are all good - does any body have a good way to test the seal of these? i'm fairly certain that the hoses are seated deep in the hose ends and the hose ends have been tightened up all the way, but i've got no idea how to test them.
anyway, made a short length to run between the oem fuel feed hardline/-6an adapter and the -6an elbow i've got attached to the inline fuel filter which runs right into the fuel rail. the hose ends aren't fully tightened up to the fuel fitting and elbow, the pics are just during a trial fit. not the best quality pictures but someone might be able to give some advice



started looking at the catch can braided lines but decided i'll get some 45 degree hose ends as there's not much room behind the engine and i'm trying to place the catch can on the lower rear part of the LHS shock tower behind the alternator, above the rear cross member. using straight hose ends kind of restrics the placement of the can, or places the hoses where they will want to kink.

got some 2.5" aluminium piping to make up an air intake. it's just a short-ram at the moment. i've got a 90" pipe to extend it to down in front of the front wheel for a cold air intake but dont have another angled pipe yet to face the filter away from the ground. it's in a good direction at the moment to then move onward to an intercooler with another joiner and 90 degree pipe.
made a bracket up to support the short ram - it slots onto the exposed thread on the back of the gearbox mount bolt with another nut to hold it on, and then it runs up and into the silicone joiner. once installed it's right out of view but it should be enough to stop the police from picking on it. I've had police give me a defective vehicle notice and send the car to inspection in the past because the intake arm wasnt as secure as they thought it should be so im hoping to avoid that this time



I'm getting tired of looking at that bare valve cover so i'll be dealing with that soon. i've been waiting to do that before putting on the new gaskets and spark plug leads and cover anyway, so once i get paint on it then i can tighten everything down for good.
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:25 AM   #107
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Default Re: dylspil's SiR EF8 CRX build thread

got the engine harness labels all finished up so that's ready to be finally put in the car


had a bit of spare time this afternoon so decided to put the radiator in. might cut the upper radiator hose a little shorter as it's wanting to kink a bit at the moment. the oem top mounting bracket fits perfect, as does the RHS lower bracket, but there's no mounting point on the other side of the radiator so it's pretty easy to twist back and forth at the moment. i'll make up a bracket to fix that before i install the slim fan. just from mocking it up it easily clears everything and looks like there will be plenty of room for a manifold and dump pipe in the future

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