213374U

Hey guys, finally cracking into this thing and as expected, ran into a few problems. I picked up a set of Raxle swap axles from NUSAINCE and he sent the half-shaft he used with em. When I went to swap it out for the one on my GSR, I ran into this...



GSR on the left with male end for drivers side axle, New on the right with female end for drivers side axle



The *stop* on the new half-shaft is slightly larger than the factory GSR. It runs into the seal on the tranny and won't completely seat. Question is..

Can I just get a new seal or do I need a new half-shaft? If I need a new seal, from which model? If I need a new half-shaft, from which model?

Another quick question, what sensor is this and will my Boomslang conversion harness account for it?



Lastly, I'm going to be running one of these....



I'm running the stock fuel rail. Would it be safe to fab up a plate to cover the stock FPR's location? Figured I could use a small piece of sheet metal and gasket paper to seal it up.

Thanks in advance for any and all help

DJYoshaBYD

Yes.. if its done right.. I have done it, and it worked fine.. i just used a sealant with a plate of metal we cut to fit it.. i have also seen people fab plugs with o-rings in them, and fitted those in the hole.. as long as you use a sealant that wont fail because of the gas, i dont see why not... Its for sure not the SAFEST way, as you would want to get a fuel rail to eliminate that all together.. they are cheap used, for an AEM one, and it will look purty, too.. haha

But you still need to get the gas out.. If you block it off, how do you get it out? mine had a nipple on it for the fuel hose.. dont forget that.. unless you are drilling through the stock one..

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

the "sensor" in question is your reverse lamp switch...

Also, maybe you can have a machine shop trim down the axle shaft.

213374U

ehhh? Why would I want the gas out? It's just fine in the rail and motor.

And gunmetal, good thought on having it machined. Don't know why that thought never crossed my mind BUT.... I would rather just replace the seal if that is at all possible.

DJYoshaBYD

im confused.. is it a non-returnable fuel system? the place where the stock FPR is, has a nipple on the FPR for the fuel line, that returns the fuel back to the tank.. the tranny side is where gas comes in, and the FPR is what has the outlet for it.. soooo.. how are you going to get the fuel out of the rail and to the new FPR? sorry if i misread something

213374U

Well, learn something new everyday. Your post got me wondering so I pulled out the Helms, thank you for saving me from a serious mistake. Would attaching a fitting to the fab'd cover for the return work? Or, does the return HAVE to come from the FPR?

DJYoshaBYD

hahaha.. yes.. you just need something to fit the gas line to.. MAKE SURE YOU USE GOOD GAS LINE.. you dont want anything cheap, that will burst under pressure..

Yeah.. the new hondas (K series) have non-returning fuel systems, which is the MAIN reason they are illegal to swap them, as the rules for swapping engine prohibit changing the stock fuel system on the vehicle..

213374U

Picked up a Golden Eagle fuel rail today and got the motor dropped in the car. What do you guys think about the seal? Is there another one with the same outer diameter and the larger inner diameter for the new halfshaft?

B18_kidd

Why not just leave your **** alone? sounds like a stupid project to begin with.

Shoulda put an H22 in it

213374U

Wow, had to laugh out loud. Kudo's to you sir

t3601

you can just change the seal on the tranny. i have already done it so i could run the hydro tranny on my crx with the da axles. the mid shaft with the mail output to the driver axle is a hydro style midshaft. so what ever midshaft you use, you have to use the co-existing axle seal and driver shaft. the part for a hydro seal is just a 99-00 civic si or delsol doch vtec. if you want to stay with the da style mid shaft and axle you need the 90-93 integra seal. just bought one of those the other day from acura for 11 dollars. don't even think of wasting your time on bringing it to a machine shop.

and i had bad luck with my hydro conversion, didn't like it at all. i had the hasport conversion and it didn't want to work properly. if i adjusted it to disengage fully it wouldn't hold under load. and then i adjusted it to hold the load and it would fully disengage and would grind when i would put it into first. there was no happy middle point. I recommend getting a ys1 tranny and putting all your new gears from your hydro tranny in it. that's what i did and it's so much better then that cable to hydro conversion. unless you plan on running a clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, then it will work great.

213374U

Thank you t3601, one of the more in depth responses I've received on this forum in a while