CEL Code 6 and 14. ECT and EACV. horrible cold start idle. fixed.
10-09-2011, 02:16 PM
#1
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CEL Code 6 and 14. ECT and EACV. horrible cold start idle. fixed.
it helps to check your codes.
SYMPTOMS: First indication of any issue was while driving, the car suddenly revved on its own and then dropped down to normal, check engine light came on. Car was still running fine, idled a bit high, but still ran ok. After getting to where I was getting to, I looked at the ECU light (pull the passenger footwell carpet back) and it blinked 6 and 14. 6 is Engine Coolant Temp sensor. 14 is EACV/IACV.
After a short break (car did not get a chance to cool down much), I started the car. IMMEDIATELY after starting the car, the idle went high again, and bounced high. CEL on. Kinda like when the EACV goes crazy because it cant compensate for the extra air coming in, but this time it never bogged under 500 rpm, just bounced cyclically from 4000 to 4500-ish. BUT, the car still ran and I got to where I needed to go and on the freeway, you wouldnt know anything was wrong except the CEL was on.
Then when I tried to start when the engine was completely cold after letting it sit for several hours til late at night, the car did NOT want to start. It would barely idle, some might say violently, and I had to keep the throttle down and rev the engine past 4000 rpm to even keep the engine alive. Eventually, it got warm enough to be able to get the car in gear and move. CEL was on of course.
So, it was like this every time for a few days, the car would be OK when warmed, but have bad cold start.
THE PROBLEM:
Even tho the CEL gave a code 14, the issue was NOT with the EACV at ALL. I finally got a chance to look at the problem today, it was all because the wiring to the ECT sensor was basically breaking, shorting and/or cutting all voltage to the sensor. This is no surprise considering my 23 year old wiring harness is just hardened and finally fatigued. The sensor 23 year old sensor was fine, it was just the wiring.
THE FIX:
I just resoldered new leads to the sensor. The ECT is found below the distributor, its the 2 wire one. It helps to remove the distributor completely to work at the sensor. One of the wires I found another break in the insulation and just added some extra heat shrink. I had to take all the crap out of the connector to get to whats left of the leads. Used a fine screwdriver to take the old crimped terminals off.
everything is working fine now. the joys of working on a 20 year old car....
SYMPTOMS: First indication of any issue was while driving, the car suddenly revved on its own and then dropped down to normal, check engine light came on. Car was still running fine, idled a bit high, but still ran ok. After getting to where I was getting to, I looked at the ECU light (pull the passenger footwell carpet back) and it blinked 6 and 14. 6 is Engine Coolant Temp sensor. 14 is EACV/IACV.
After a short break (car did not get a chance to cool down much), I started the car. IMMEDIATELY after starting the car, the idle went high again, and bounced high. CEL on. Kinda like when the EACV goes crazy because it cant compensate for the extra air coming in, but this time it never bogged under 500 rpm, just bounced cyclically from 4000 to 4500-ish. BUT, the car still ran and I got to where I needed to go and on the freeway, you wouldnt know anything was wrong except the CEL was on.
Then when I tried to start when the engine was completely cold after letting it sit for several hours til late at night, the car did NOT want to start. It would barely idle, some might say violently, and I had to keep the throttle down and rev the engine past 4000 rpm to even keep the engine alive. Eventually, it got warm enough to be able to get the car in gear and move. CEL was on of course.
So, it was like this every time for a few days, the car would be OK when warmed, but have bad cold start.
THE PROBLEM:
Even tho the CEL gave a code 14, the issue was NOT with the EACV at ALL. I finally got a chance to look at the problem today, it was all because the wiring to the ECT sensor was basically breaking, shorting and/or cutting all voltage to the sensor. This is no surprise considering my 23 year old wiring harness is just hardened and finally fatigued. The sensor 23 year old sensor was fine, it was just the wiring.
THE FIX:
I just resoldered new leads to the sensor. The ECT is found below the distributor, its the 2 wire one. It helps to remove the distributor completely to work at the sensor. One of the wires I found another break in the insulation and just added some extra heat shrink. I had to take all the crap out of the connector to get to whats left of the leads. Used a fine screwdriver to take the old crimped terminals off.
everything is working fine now. the joys of working on a 20 year old car....
10-10-2011, 08:18 AM
#2
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