Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
#201
Premium Member
Thread Starter
4 Angry Little Pistons
Ready to go!
I covered each rod bolt with some heater hose when dropping each piston/rod assembly in to protect the crank. Then I put some oil around the piston so it would coat the bore and rings. I torqued the caps on @ 33ft/lbs.
Then - all covered up with some fresh cling wrap.
I covered each rod bolt with some heater hose when dropping each piston/rod assembly in to protect the crank. Then I put some oil around the piston so it would coat the bore and rings. I torqued the caps on @ 33ft/lbs.
Then - all covered up with some fresh cling wrap.
#205
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
Hey, thanks man.
By the time I respond to all these questions and comments in here, I am amazed I have any time to work on the actual build!
Ha ha, that is a joke. But glad that you and @wxman94ej1 are enjoying the thread...
By the time I respond to all these questions and comments in here, I am amazed I have any time to work on the actual build!
Ha ha, that is a joke. But glad that you and @wxman94ej1 are enjoying the thread...
#208
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Oil Strainer/Pick-Up Tube Gasket
I have ordered a lot of parts for this build, and now I have hit that point where I am losing stuff.
I am getting ready to put everything together and thought I would start low by getting the oil pan on. I ordered the little gasket for the oil pick-up tube/strainer, but I cannot find that little f'er anywhere!
Very disappointing...
If you were me, would you:
I am getting ready to put everything together and thought I would start low by getting the oil pan on. I ordered the little gasket for the oil pick-up tube/strainer, but I cannot find that little f'er anywhere!
Very disappointing...
If you were me, would you:
- Re-use old gasket - flip it over maybe
- Ultra Gray - Permatex
- Right Stuff - Permatex
#216
talks to himself
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
When I was in formula FSAE we had a scenario where we had to come up with an o-ring quickly. No shops carried what we needed so we chamfered the edges of a pipe on a belt sander until they were sharp and then used it to cut seals out of a neopren swim cap. Worked pretty well to seal the two halves of our brake calipers.
#217
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
When I was in formula FSAE we had a scenario where we had to come up with an o-ring quickly. No shops carried what we needed so we chamfered the edges of a pipe on a belt sander until they were sharp and then used it to cut seals out of a neopren swim cap. Worked pretty well to seal the two halves of our brake calipers.
As long as there a swim cap around...
I actually swim Masters, so I usually have a pool bag in the car, with a couple of caps usually.
Good story.
#218
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Re: Replace CV Axles
Not much happening on the Civic with Turkey Day and family activities this weekend, but I at least got to stab in "new" (reman) CV axle shafts.
NAPA products, as these were replaced @ $0 under warranty.
94-6021 = Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...6021/NMD946021
94-6009 = Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...6009/NMD946009
Description says "New", but I am pretty sure these are remans - take a look at the pictures.
Note: I am sure everyone knows, but these are '94-'01 Integra shafts
I put a little anti-sieze on the outside splines and slid them through from the outside to get a nice, even coating all the way through.
DS was easy to push through the lock ring, PS took a little more effort.
I had not torqued to spec in the pics, so nuts are not staked yet.
NAPA products, as these were replaced @ $0 under warranty.
94-6021 = Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...6021/NMD946021
94-6009 = Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...6009/NMD946009
Description says "New", but I am pretty sure these are remans - take a look at the pictures.
Note: I am sure everyone knows, but these are '94-'01 Integra shafts
I put a little anti-sieze on the outside splines and slid them through from the outside to get a nice, even coating all the way through.
DS was easy to push through the lock ring, PS took a little more effort.
I had not torqued to spec in the pics, so nuts are not staked yet.
#221
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
Issues I notice after initial fire-up:
- IAB work after all that re-wire work? No. There is vacuum, and the butterfly valves do move, so more troubleshooting required
- Steering rack not centered with wheel - hopefully I can get this resolved when I take it in for alignment
- the glorious, above-mentioned coolant leak. Further discussion follows:
- https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...b18c1-3293564/ and here
- https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine...b18c1-3293576/ (yes, two threads - because I didn't take my Ritalin that day)
#222
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
I talked with the machinist this week, he thinks it is worth a shot trying to retorque the head gasket. He said he would have me start at the end of the torque sequence - #10, remove that one bolt, oil it properly, and then put it back in torquing to final spec of 63 ft-lbs in one step, and then work my way back to bolt #1.
Maybe it will work, maybe not...
I see slight differences in the reverse order of the torque sequence, vs. the loosening sequence. Since the loosening sequence is for truly removing the head, I think I will reverse the torque sequence:
Maybe it will work, maybe not...
I see slight differences in the reverse order of the torque sequence, vs. the loosening sequence. Since the loosening sequence is for truly removing the head, I think I will reverse the torque sequence:
#223
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
@CX-Adam and I were talking about pulling the timing belt in his thread - does anyone know if I can simply pull the velve cover and middle timing belt cover, loosen the tensioner to get the belt off and cams out?
Or do I need to go full bore and pull the crank pulley, get the timing belt fully off?
Or do I need to go full bore and pull the crank pulley, get the timing belt fully off?
#224
talks to himself
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
I would leave the crank pulley on and push the belt out of my way until I'm read to reinstall everything.
The installation order is crank, tensioner, water pump, cams (I'm not remembering the cam order atm). So, leaving it on the crank is like starting at the first sequence anyways. The reason for rotating the engine 2 to 3 times after installation is to ensure the belt is aligned on all the pulleys. So, you don't need to be able to see it. There's alignment washers on the timing sprocket on the crank anyways.
The installation order is crank, tensioner, water pump, cams (I'm not remembering the cam order atm). So, leaving it on the crank is like starting at the first sequence anyways. The reason for rotating the engine 2 to 3 times after installation is to ensure the belt is aligned on all the pulleys. So, you don't need to be able to see it. There's alignment washers on the timing sprocket on the crank anyways.
#225
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
I would leave the crank pulley on and push the belt out of my way until I'm read to reinstall everything.
The installation order is crank, tensioner, water pump, cams (I'm not remembering the cam order atm). So, leaving it on the crank is like starting at the first sequence anyways. The reason for rotating the engine 2 to 3 times after installation is to ensure the belt is aligned on all the pulleys. So, you don't need to be able to see it. There's alignment washers on the timing sprocket on the crank anyways.
The installation order is crank, tensioner, water pump, cams (I'm not remembering the cam order atm). So, leaving it on the crank is like starting at the first sequence anyways. The reason for rotating the engine 2 to 3 times after installation is to ensure the belt is aligned on all the pulleys. So, you don't need to be able to see it. There's alignment washers on the timing sprocket on the crank anyways.
Do you pull the plugs? If they are 1/2 to 2/3 turn after finger tight, I wonder if I have already crushed a crush washer on them.
If you do not pull the lower cover, are you able to give the tensioner a little extra tension when re-installing belt?
Thanks...