hondadriver

Ok, here it goes, I swapped in a b16a into my 98 civic last winter. After 3 days of driving I got the P1457 code(evap system leak charcoall canister area). So I read through my helms book, and I bought the vacuum pump to test the vacuum lines. I tested all my solenoids, and they all click, I tested them individually and from the ecu. So one day I was testing the two way valve again, and the vacuum gauge read alittle was leaking so I went to honda and bought the two way valve and the bypas solenoid. 3 days later the code came up again. So then I did a search ( and I'm pretty sure there is no topic about the P1457 code that I havent read! I spent all summer testing and researching) And people were saying that the canister shut off valve could be bad becasue in colder climates they can become defective. Well I'm thinking mine has to be good becasue it clicks when i put power to it, so I said **** it I'll order one and see if it does it. Again I got the code. So i tried the charcoal canister, replaced that and it still didn't solve the problem. So now I'm going nutts, I replaced half of the evap system and put hose clamps on all the hoses and its still there. I also purchased another P2T ecu off abay to see if mine was fucked. well it wasn't so I resold the ecu on ebay. PLEASE don't say that my gas cap is loose, if that were the case it would be the P1456 code ( evap leak gas tank area). There was guy on here and I emailed him becasue he had the same set up, he had a OBD1 B16a in 97 civic with an OBD2 ecu. And i asked him if he repalced any evap equipment and he said no. So I now its not the swap causing the problem. I aksed him becasue he was using an OBD2 ecu and eveyone else uses a OBD1. And now in NY state we are getting the Emission computer test, where they check for check engine lights. So I cannot use a OBD1 ecu. If you do a search for this P1457 code you will find most responses are the gas cap.which doesn't help!! Because mine seals fine everytime I go to fill up you hear the pressure escapeing.

So far I found something interesting- The only thing I didn't replace is the purge control solenoid. So just for the hell of it I took the Purge control solenoid out and ran a hose straight from the IM to the charcoal canister, I also unplugged the 2pin wire connector off the purge control solenoid. So now the Purge Control solenoid and the wire connector are hanging in my engine bay. AND now after driving for 1 month I get no check engine light, which is cool, but my status on my OBD2 scanner says "not ready" for the evap system. Which needs to be in the "ready" stage to pass emissions. ****! You can say that ,my purge control solenoid is bad, but it does click when I put power to it. I did a continuity test on the pins in the solenoid and I got continuity going across the 2 pins, which means that they are connected, but I'm not sure if that is right CAN some please do a continuity test on their solenoid and let me now if its suppose to be that way.

I need a serious response PLEASE! And don't tell me that this topic has been covered and do a search because I have and all the other posts go no responses, I gave you as much info as I can too what I did so far. I'd replace the purge control
solenoid but its too expensive to guess on, I wanna find out for sure.

Archidictus

Have you considered that maybe you have two or more vacuum lines hooked up to the wrong ports? That's all it takes to mess something up in the computer's eyes. I know it sounds insultingly simple, but you wouldn't be the first one to overlook such a simple solution.

hondadriver

Nope, I'm 100% sure on all the hoses, I read the diagram under the hood, and In the helms book. They hven't even been touched throughout the swap, only thing I had to is remove the hose going from the purge solenoid to the charcoal canister to get the motor out. I also accidently sold my original purge control solenoid with my d-series, so I went to a junk yard and bought one off a 97 Del Sol with a D16y7 in it, which was my original motor! its actually hard to **** up the hoses because all the solenoids and compoenets are labled, "to can", "to solenoid", etc.

hondadriver

OK, I DID MORE TESTING, FOUND SOMETHING NEW.

Ok, I read the Helms manual again and I did the testing for the Purge Control Solenoid. I raised the front of the car onto jack stands and hooked up a vacuum gauage to the other side of the pcs (purge control solenoid). So know I have One side of the pcs hookd up to the IM and the other to the vacuum gauage. Ok the book says to warm up the engine until the fan comes on, OK did that!! Now put the car in first gear and rev it up to 3k rpm. Ok, Now there should be vacuum because the PCS is suppose to open. But I'm getting no vacuum. So I put 12v and ground to the solenoid and it clicked open and I did the test again now I am getting vacuum. So the only thing left to check is the wiring. I did a continuity test on the wires they are not OPEN OR SHORTED to the body. SO the wires are fine. I looked at the wireing diagram for the engine harness and I saw that the Blk/Yel wire that goes to the PCS is suppose to have 12v when the key is in or when the motor is started! That checks fine there is 12v. So If there is a Constant 12v already going to the valve that means the ecu throws a GROUND to open the valve RIGHT??? So I measure the voltage across the connector and it reads 12v. but when I plug the solenoid in it doesn't open. SO WHAT THE **** IS WRONG?

So we have:
-12v at the Blk/Yel
-Valve opens and close when 12v and ground is put to it
-wires are all good
-HHHHMMMMMMM, a problem!