SurfGT96

iTrader: (1)

I've been dealing with an overheating problem that has been getting worse for months now.
So far I have done all the basics... coolant flushed and refilled, fan switch (fan works), t-stat and radiator cap.

The details are as follows:
1) Temperature will not increase over normal operating temperature until ~30 miles have been driven within the past few hours.
2) After engine has cooled, pressure will be left in system. Radiator cap retains internal pressure so vacuum is not created and coolant is never pulled back into radiator from overflow tank after hot transfer. (with cooled engine, cap will release pressure when loosened and air will bubble into tank)
3) Sediment being deposited in overflow tank (carbon?)
4) No coolant found in oil
5) Heater works and relieves increasing operating temperature, however, smell of coolant is present when run
Side note) Power seems to be slowly decreasing

What would these symptoms indicate to you guys? Thanks for the help!

rpared01

i had the same problem too after 30 + miles the temp would go up. i change all the hoses and she was all back to normal again. i havent had any problems since. make sure you check all of them even the ones on the back of the intake.

joshkx

new water pump?

Andres-eh2

my guess is water pump too since it helps circulate coolant. head gasket going possible too depending if you see it mix with oil.

94EG8

My guess based on the OPs info would be blown headgasket. Just to touch on something else, this oil mixed with coolant milkshake you hear about so often doesn't honestly come up all that often, as a matter of fact i've never seen it happen in a civic, I have seen it once in a malibu. Just as an example I pulled apart a DOHC ZC recently that drove a rod through the block, it was mysteriously showing about an extra 4L of oil on the dipstick, it wasn't milky, just black. Started to drain the oil and the first half was pure coolant.

OP, do a compression test and go from there.

SurfGT96

iTrader: (1)

So I did a compression test and found peak values (reading the instant the piston hit TDC) to be ~165-190 across the board. The thing that I was not expecting, as I have no past experience compression testing, was that the needle did not provide a constant reading after building up to consistent peaks (after ~4 cranks). It would only stay at that peak for a split second and then continue to drop down to the low 100s until the engine cranked again. (Is this common and if not what could the explanation be? Outside of the test, 3 of the plugs looked fine but one had darker coloration to it. Looking inside of the corresponding cylinder I could see coolant laying on top of the piston and smell it as it was vaporized when testing other cylinders. The car is now running extra rough, essentially on three cylinders and burning coolant can now be seen in the form of whiteish/blueish smoke out the exhaust. Do you guys think I may have any other problems besides a blown head gasket? Is it odd for the compression test gauge to not provide a relatively steady reading once the pressure has been built up? Would the peak/instantaneous values I read indicate the motor has good compression for a split second but cannot maintain it and would this only be a cause of the head gasket sealing? The motor only has 115K on it. Thanks again!

Former User

Post the psi reading for each cylinder in the compression test. I think you have a blown head gasket. Try a leak down test.

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm

SurfGT96

iTrader: (1)

I bought a different compression tester and that fixed the instantaneous readings and constantly dropping pressure from the previous test. Tonight I tested the compression with the engine cold bc it's burning a lot of coolant out of the #3 cylinder. The compression read 205, 195, 205, 205 psi in cylinders 1-4, respectively.

Rob§

Go to Auto Zone and by a "Fail-Safe" Thermostat if it fails it fails "Open" pressure could be left in the system if the thermostat is closed.
Make sure your water pump is new and the belt is tight and not worn.

Head gasket being blown could case an over heat but there would be evidence of a leak in the coolant monitor the fluid level, and remember that it will be a great loss because just a normal over heat would evaporate some coolant. the oil/coolant "milkshake is only comment if the inner gasket breaks near a coolant tunnel.

Good luck and if you need any help or have questions feel free to ask

SurfGT96

iTrader: (1)

Yea, there's coolant coming into my #3 cylinder (seen on piston and smoking out the exhaust along with running too rough to drive of course) along with oil/carbon soot in my coolant in the reservoir tank. I just want to make sure that my only problem would be the head gasket. I seem to have good compression when it's cold which is a bit surprising to me considering how much coolant is being combusted.

Rob§

Def a blown gasket make sure to plain the block before you put the new gasket on. clean out all tunnels and problem solved

Good Luck