Hanmin

Okay. so I have the obd2 gsr with the extra 3 pin plug.

I moved a20 to a17, then I cut the purge plug and put in the IAB plug.

I did IAB red to Purge red(ECU)
then IAB black to purge yellow/black

I started the car and the secondary's are not closing. Is there anything else that I have to do?

Hanmin

I'm supposed to put a20 to a17 right? and then use the purge solenoid plug???

I wired red with red, and black with a yellow and black injector wire, still no go. I checked all the vacuum lines and it stops at the solenoid.

Hanmin

Alright, let me get this straight.....

If the solenoid is working, it should close the iab's at startup right?

Or the only way I can find out it works is to drive it?

gotz2b16

No.. when you start the engine the IAB's should close. only after you pass 5700 rpm or so should they open back up..

You may have to check wiring for your model.. If I'm correct OBD1 ECU IAB wire sends +12v output which means the other wire on the solonoid goes to ground.

On OBD2 ECU's I believe it's the opposite.. The IAB must have +12V being supplied to it, and the ECU provides a 0v Ground output..

This is why I recommend you refer to a wiring diagram for a OBD2 GSR to confirm this.. Although I don't think you can mess it up either way.. Honda ECU's are pretty good with protecting circuits..

Hanmin

I've read both it should stay open when the engine start, and close.

I've tried red to ecu a17 and black to ground, injector yellow/blk wire, both didn't close the iab at startup

Hanmin

"First, two discrete intake runners with different length are employed, and a butterfly valve can close the short path."

Okay, so I found this on Wikipedia. I'll go and test it out now, thanks guys.

Hanmin

Okay, heres how i did it.

Obd2 gsr into obd1 chassis/ecu.

Move a20 to a17.(remember wire color)
Cut purge solenoid plug off, cut iab plug off.
Connect IAB plug to Purge wires, red to ecu(the color you remembered)
Connect the black wire of IAB plug to yellow/black wire on injector or yellow/black on iacv, may work with the yellow/black on purge, I will try it later.
Then your done.

When you start the car, the IAB is not supposed to close, it only closes when it hits roughly 6k rpms.

I know theres a diy, but it wasn't that clear.

tazeat

you have it backwards, it should be open when the car is off, closed when you start the car, then open back up at 6k.

The car should be fairly quiet, then at 6k you should be able to hear the intake roar.

Hanmin

Yes I do hear the roar. But it's the way i mentioned it. Open now, closed at 6k.

With no vacuum, the iab is open, right?

With vacuum the iab is closed, right?

Therefore, thats how it is.

tazeat

Yes, afaik you should have vacuum (closed) at idle, that's how I have mine wired... That's what my book says. How do you have it wired?

1 wire to GND
1 wire to A17 on OBD1 p72

or

1 wire to +12v
1 wire to A17 on OBD1 p72

Try switching the GND/+12v wire around?

On OBD2a you use:
1 wire GND
1 wire A26

but I think OBD1 is backward and needs +12v instead of GND on the other wire.

MIsterE533

http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.99-01.jpg

Look there that should tell you exactly how to do it.

http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/

Super resource for hybriding and swaps. Thanks to katman. This site's probably been posted thousands of times. Bookmark that ****!

Hanmin

Okay.

When my car starts, the IAB doesn't move at all. Thats open right? and when I drive it, I hear/feel the difference at 6k.

I'll post a vid later today.