How do i adjust my idle?
#3
Re: How do i adjust my idle? (Racerage1)
are you sure you need to?? get a helms manual and look at the fuel and emissions chapter. a lot of things can cause an erratic idle. go through their procedure, and i bet it will be fixed well before you get to that step.
is it idling high or low, or is it erratic?
is it idling high or low, or is it erratic?
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Re: How do i adjust my idle? (jwn7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwn7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure you need to?? get a helms manual and look at the fuel and emissions chapter. a lot of things can cause an erratic idle. go through their procedure, and i bet it will be fixed well before you get to that step.
is it idling high or low, or is it erratic?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My idle is bouncey at first....as my car warms up the idle just drops lower and lower...untill my headlights dim like its going to die. Is it a timing problem? Or can i just do it by raising my idle on the throttle?
is it idling high or low, or is it erratic?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My idle is bouncey at first....as my car warms up the idle just drops lower and lower...untill my headlights dim like its going to die. Is it a timing problem? Or can i just do it by raising my idle on the throttle?
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Re: (otakueric)
you put your 12mm wrench in then you take your 12mm wrench out you put your 12mm wrench in then you shake it all about you do the hokie pokie then you turn yourself around thats what its all about. j/k what this guy said below
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by otakueric »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take a 12mm wrench, take off the first nut, to raise idle, turn the nut away from you, to lower the idle turn it towards you</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by otakueric »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take a 12mm wrench, take off the first nut, to raise idle, turn the nut away from you, to lower the idle turn it towards you</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (careawholelot)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by careawholelot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you put your 12mm wrench in then you take your 12mm wrench out you put your 12mm wrench in then you shake it all about you do the hokie pokie then you turn yourself around thats what its all about. j/k what this guy said below
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is it this nut right here? Turn it counter-clockwise to raise my idle? Should i do it with the car on?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is it this nut right here? Turn it counter-clockwise to raise my idle? Should i do it with the car on?
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Re: (trooper0641)
Check your idle air control valve before messing with your idle speed. When unplugged after the engine is warmed up, idle speed should drop or the car should stall. Since your car does this already though, this might be your problem.
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Re: (USDMDC2)
no not that, its a small SCREW that u need a flat-head to turn, it's on top of the T-body, firewall side.
1. remove the IAC valve( its on the T-body firewall side, held my two screws,
kinda looks like a motor with two small hose attached to it at the bottom of it)
clean the mesh on the inside with carb-cleaner to remove any build up.
Disconnect the wires from this piece, u should see a sudden drop in idle.
2. start truning the screw till u get an idle of 450 to 500.
3. when done, turn car off and connect Everything back to its place.
4. remove the back-up fuse located in the engine fuse-box for say 10 mins
then replace it back.
5. turn car on and make sure u got nothing ON, AC wipers,lights, and blah blah.
check to see if u got a nice idle, if not check ur hose for leaks.
1. remove the IAC valve( its on the T-body firewall side, held my two screws,
kinda looks like a motor with two small hose attached to it at the bottom of it)
clean the mesh on the inside with carb-cleaner to remove any build up.
Disconnect the wires from this piece, u should see a sudden drop in idle.
2. start truning the screw till u get an idle of 450 to 500.
3. when done, turn car off and connect Everything back to its place.
4. remove the back-up fuse located in the engine fuse-box for say 10 mins
then replace it back.
5. turn car on and make sure u got nothing ON, AC wipers,lights, and blah blah.
check to see if u got a nice idle, if not check ur hose for leaks.
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Re: (EvilPinkEye)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EvilPinkEye »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no not that, its a small SCREW that u need a flat-head to turn, it's on top of the T-body, firewall side.
1. remove the IAC valve( its on the T-body firewall side, held my two screws,
kinda looks like a motor with two small hose attached to it at the bottom of it)
clean the mesh on the inside with carb-cleaner to remove any build up.
Disconnect the wires from this piece, u should see a sudden drop in idle.
2. start truning the screw till u get an idle of 450 to 500.
3. when done, turn car off and connect Everything back to its place.
4. remove the back-up fuse located in the engine fuse-box for say 10 mins
then replace it back.
5. turn car on and make sure u got nothing ON, AC wipers,lights, and blah blah.
check to see if u got a nice idle, if not check ur hose for leaks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
O ok thanks...people confused me with the 12mm wrench/socket thing.
1. remove the IAC valve( its on the T-body firewall side, held my two screws,
kinda looks like a motor with two small hose attached to it at the bottom of it)
clean the mesh on the inside with carb-cleaner to remove any build up.
Disconnect the wires from this piece, u should see a sudden drop in idle.
2. start truning the screw till u get an idle of 450 to 500.
3. when done, turn car off and connect Everything back to its place.
4. remove the back-up fuse located in the engine fuse-box for say 10 mins
then replace it back.
5. turn car on and make sure u got nothing ON, AC wipers,lights, and blah blah.
check to see if u got a nice idle, if not check ur hose for leaks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
O ok thanks...people confused me with the 12mm wrench/socket thing.
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Re: (trooper0641)
I'd suggest checking the idle air control valve before adjusting your idle, all you have to do is unplug one thing. From what it sounds like, raising the idle isn't going to help you at all.
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Re: (dtmamg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dtmamg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd suggest checking the idle air control valve before adjusting your idle, all you have to do is unplug one thing. From what it sounds like, raising the idle isn't going to help you at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so...what are you telling me to do exactly? just unplug and plug? ?
so...what are you telling me to do exactly? just unplug and plug? ?
#14
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Re: (EvilPinkEye)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EvilPinkEye »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no not that, its a small SCREW that u need a flat-head to turn, it's on top of the T-body, firewall side.
1. remove the IAC valve( its on the T-body firewall side, held my two screws,
kinda looks like a motor with two small hose attached to it at the bottom of it)
clean the mesh on the inside with carb-cleaner to remove any build up.
Disconnect the wires from this piece, u should see a sudden drop in idle.
2. start truning the screw till u get an idle of 450 to 500.
3. when done, turn car off and connect Everything back to its place.
4. remove the back-up fuse located in the engine fuse-box for say 10 mins
then replace it back.
5. turn car on and make sure u got nothing ON, AC wipers,lights, and blah blah.
check to see if u got a nice idle, if not check ur hose for leaks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What in the hell is everyone talking about 12mm? This is how you adjust it correctly.
1. remove the IAC valve( its on the T-body firewall side, held my two screws,
kinda looks like a motor with two small hose attached to it at the bottom of it)
clean the mesh on the inside with carb-cleaner to remove any build up.
Disconnect the wires from this piece, u should see a sudden drop in idle.
2. start truning the screw till u get an idle of 450 to 500.
3. when done, turn car off and connect Everything back to its place.
4. remove the back-up fuse located in the engine fuse-box for say 10 mins
then replace it back.
5. turn car on and make sure u got nothing ON, AC wipers,lights, and blah blah.
check to see if u got a nice idle, if not check ur hose for leaks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What in the hell is everyone talking about 12mm? This is how you adjust it correctly.
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Re: (kool168)
The 12mm wrench idea that people are throwing out is called "tensioning your throttle cable". Because the braided line of the throttle cable stretches over time, it behoves you to take the slack out of it (which sometimes raises and sets your idle) so you get full response when you press the gas pedal.
You do this by moving about eight inches down the throttle cable (towards the passenger side starting at the throttle mechanism) and adjusting the two 12mm nuts that keep the cable tensioned on the cable bracket.
Enjoy.
You do this by moving about eight inches down the throttle cable (towards the passenger side starting at the throttle mechanism) and adjusting the two 12mm nuts that keep the cable tensioned on the cable bracket.
Enjoy.
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Re: (trooper0641)
Start up the, run it until it gets warmed up, then let it idle. If you unplug the Idle Air Control Valve while its idling warmed up, it should drop idle speed quite a bit or even stall. Since your car seems to be doing this already, nothing should change when you unplug the Idle Air Control Valve. You can adjust your idle speed if you want to try that out, but if that doesn't do anything I'm going to have to say your Idle Air Control Valve is shot.
#18
Re: (otakueric)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by otakueric »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take a 12mm wrench, take off the first nut, to raise idle, turn the nut away from you, to lower the idle turn it towards you</TD></TR></TABLE>
i tried that, but the lower rmp during idel is 1000... anyone know why this happen?
i tried that, but the lower rmp during idel is 1000... anyone know why this happen?
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Re: (SOL-R)
in your case check for vacuum leaks, clean your throttle body, check timing, then follow the Evilpinkeyes post.
1 more sensor that need attention is the fast idles thermal valve. it located under the throttle body. the one that the two 8mm screws. these screws need to be remove, and inside the there is a ring with 2 small cut opposite each. this ring tend to back out (in the life the engine) and cause the erratic idle. it needs to be turn in slowly.
1 more sensor that need attention is the fast idles thermal valve. it located under the throttle body. the one that the two 8mm screws. these screws need to be remove, and inside the there is a ring with 2 small cut opposite each. this ring tend to back out (in the life the engine) and cause the erratic idle. it needs to be turn in slowly.
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Re: (2lua)
im pretty sure you can just use a 12mm wrench to adjust the idle on the 2 throttle cable.
i went through the same problems you did.
1. is it throwing any check engline lights?
2. after your car is warmed up does the idle stay pretty normal when your just parked?
3. does the car ever stall because the idle drops too low when your in neutral?
i went through the same problems you did.
1. is it throwing any check engline lights?
2. after your car is warmed up does the idle stay pretty normal when your just parked?
3. does the car ever stall because the idle drops too low when your in neutral?
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