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FAQ : How to replace and Test Your Ignition Coil and ICM ( Igntion Control Module )
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
FAQ : How to replace and Test Your Ignition Coil and ICM ( Igntion Control Module )
Ok here you go *******.. My latest problem with my car i thought i would do a write up since this is also a very common problem with our cars. So here it goes
*****DISCLAIMER*******
Warning attempt this at your own risk. I am not responsible if you damage your ecu or car in any way. I am not liable for your Mistakes. By doing this you do know that you are messing with the computer that operates your car. if you mess up in any way you may cause damage to your Vehicle. Once again attempt this at your own risk. if you dont feel you can do this leave it to the professionals.
Tools Needed.
Screw drivers
Multimeter
12mm
Step 1
Remove your intake it will give you better access to the Dizzy
Step 2
Take a Phillips Screw Driver and Remove the 3 screws holding on the distributor cap.. Leave the plug wires on so you dont risk messing up the firing order.. Note you should have a shroud around the rotor and coil.. for some reason my dizzy does not have the that
Step 3
Take a Marker and make a straight line on the dizzy to the Dizzy mount
Step 4
Take a 12mm wrench or socket. and remove the 3 bolts holding on the dizzy. and remove the Connector that is going to the engine harness from the Dizzy
Step 5 Now that we got the distributor off. Take a clean Paper towel and ball it up and pluge the hole where the dizzy was. now its time to start removing the guts
Step 6.
Remove the Phillps Screw holding on the Rotor.
Step 7
Take the Phillips Screw Driver and remove the + and - Terminals off of the Coil
Step 8
Take the Phillips screw Driver and remove the 2 bolts holding on the Ignition coil to the dizzy. once these are removed the coil should slide right out.
Step 9
Now its time to Test the Coil. Best results are seen at 68* F Fist part is get your Multimeter and set it on the Ohms..... Now Take the Hot pin and put it on the + terminal. and take the ground pin and put it on the coil spring.. This should be Reading between 12.8- 19.2 Ohms.. Mine reads 15.6 so that part is reading good.
Step 10.
Once again Best results are seen at 68* F Now take the Hot pin and place it in the + part of the coil. and take the ground pin and place it in the - part of the coil. this should read between 0.6-0.8 Ohms. if its not between there check the temperature and run the test again. In my case the coil is bad.
Step 11
I already tested My ICM before i decided to do the write up so i knew it was bad. at the bottom of the thread ill have a diagram to show how to test the ICM But to remove the ICM first remove the 4 connectors.
Step 12
Now look on the side of the Dizzy for 2 small Phillips head screws. remove these 2 screws hold the ICM in place
Step 13.
Slide out the ICM.. Now look at the 2.. on the right the beat up stock one.. on the right the brand new replacement
Now Follow the steps in reverse and reinstall the Dizzy.. be sure you use your mark to set the timing in where it was.
NOW TIME TO TEST THE ICM. YOu must do this with the Distributor still installed on the car. and the Dizzy Connector plugged into the engine harness.
Step 1. Remove all the connectors off of the ICM
Step 2. Turn the Key to the ON Position.
Step 3 Now Take your Volt Meter. Take the red pin and place it in Connector B. and take the Black pin and place it on a good ground connection. There should be battery Voltage here. at least 11.9V.....
IF there is no Voltage Take the Red Pin and stick it into the B connector. and take the black pin and touch it to the B Terminal of the ICM. If there is Voltage Go to Step 4
Step 4
Turn the Ignition Key ON. Check for voltage between Connector C and Body Ground. There should Be Battery Voltage Here.
- if there is no Battery Voltage Check:
- Igntion Coil
- Connector C between the Ignition Coil and the IC
* If there is Voltage Proceed to step 5
Step 5 Check Connector A wire between the ECM and ICM
Step 6 Check Connector D wire between the Tachometer and the ICM
IF all Test are Normal Replace the ICM
This has been a JDMLyfeStyle write up. Do not Copy any of my images without my permission or i will hunt you down and cut off your ******* *****!!!!
Enjoy im out later Bitches
JDMLyfestyle
Check out more of my write ups here.
Http://www.JDMLyfeStyle.com
Modified by JDMlyfestyle at 4:33 PM 6/22/2006
*****DISCLAIMER*******
Warning attempt this at your own risk. I am not responsible if you damage your ecu or car in any way. I am not liable for your Mistakes. By doing this you do know that you are messing with the computer that operates your car. if you mess up in any way you may cause damage to your Vehicle. Once again attempt this at your own risk. if you dont feel you can do this leave it to the professionals.
Tools Needed.
Screw drivers
Multimeter
12mm
Step 1
Remove your intake it will give you better access to the Dizzy
Step 2
Take a Phillips Screw Driver and Remove the 3 screws holding on the distributor cap.. Leave the plug wires on so you dont risk messing up the firing order.. Note you should have a shroud around the rotor and coil.. for some reason my dizzy does not have the that
Step 3
Take a Marker and make a straight line on the dizzy to the Dizzy mount
Step 4
Take a 12mm wrench or socket. and remove the 3 bolts holding on the dizzy. and remove the Connector that is going to the engine harness from the Dizzy
Step 5 Now that we got the distributor off. Take a clean Paper towel and ball it up and pluge the hole where the dizzy was. now its time to start removing the guts
Step 6.
Remove the Phillps Screw holding on the Rotor.
Step 7
Take the Phillips Screw Driver and remove the + and - Terminals off of the Coil
Step 8
Take the Phillips screw Driver and remove the 2 bolts holding on the Ignition coil to the dizzy. once these are removed the coil should slide right out.
Step 9
Now its time to Test the Coil. Best results are seen at 68* F Fist part is get your Multimeter and set it on the Ohms..... Now Take the Hot pin and put it on the + terminal. and take the ground pin and put it on the coil spring.. This should be Reading between 12.8- 19.2 Ohms.. Mine reads 15.6 so that part is reading good.
Step 10.
Once again Best results are seen at 68* F Now take the Hot pin and place it in the + part of the coil. and take the ground pin and place it in the - part of the coil. this should read between 0.6-0.8 Ohms. if its not between there check the temperature and run the test again. In my case the coil is bad.
Step 11
I already tested My ICM before i decided to do the write up so i knew it was bad. at the bottom of the thread ill have a diagram to show how to test the ICM But to remove the ICM first remove the 4 connectors.
Step 12
Now look on the side of the Dizzy for 2 small Phillips head screws. remove these 2 screws hold the ICM in place
Step 13.
Slide out the ICM.. Now look at the 2.. on the right the beat up stock one.. on the right the brand new replacement
Now Follow the steps in reverse and reinstall the Dizzy.. be sure you use your mark to set the timing in where it was.
NOW TIME TO TEST THE ICM. YOu must do this with the Distributor still installed on the car. and the Dizzy Connector plugged into the engine harness.
Step 1. Remove all the connectors off of the ICM
Step 2. Turn the Key to the ON Position.
Step 3 Now Take your Volt Meter. Take the red pin and place it in Connector B. and take the Black pin and place it on a good ground connection. There should be battery Voltage here. at least 11.9V.....
IF there is no Voltage Take the Red Pin and stick it into the B connector. and take the black pin and touch it to the B Terminal of the ICM. If there is Voltage Go to Step 4
Step 4
Turn the Ignition Key ON. Check for voltage between Connector C and Body Ground. There should Be Battery Voltage Here.
- if there is no Battery Voltage Check:
- Igntion Coil
- Connector C between the Ignition Coil and the IC
* If there is Voltage Proceed to step 5
Step 5 Check Connector A wire between the ECM and ICM
Step 6 Check Connector D wire between the Tachometer and the ICM
IF all Test are Normal Replace the ICM
This has been a JDMLyfeStyle write up. Do not Copy any of my images without my permission or i will hunt you down and cut off your ******* *****!!!!
Enjoy im out later Bitches
JDMLyfestyle
Check out more of my write ups here.
Http://www.JDMLyfeStyle.com
Modified by JDMlyfestyle at 4:33 PM 6/22/2006
#3
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Re: FAQ : How to replace and Test Your Ignition Coil and ICM (nocturnaldragon)
How in the hell are you not a Mod yet? Good **** man as always, thanks.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: FAQ : How to replace and Test Your Ignition Coil and ICM (turner7205)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turner7205 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How in the hell are you not a Mod yet? Good **** man as always, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everyone PM the Admin and Bug him lol
Everyone PM the Admin and Bug him lol
#7
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Re: FAQ : How to replace and Test Your Ignition Coil and ICM (nocturnaldragon)
did this in school the other day EXACTLY the same. Great Write Up
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#8
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Re: FAQ : How to replace and Test Your Ignition Coil and ICM (JDMlyfestyle)
Good write-up, but you need to get over yourself. Calling everyone ******* and bitches isn't the best way to make friends.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That is the way i show my love to everyone :-D
and i never said i was here to make friends.. Im here to help others. So what i have a Foul mouth its me accept it or dont respond plain and simple.
and i never said i was here to make friends.. Im here to help others. So what i have a Foul mouth its me accept it or dont respond plain and simple.
#15
Re: (JDMlyfestyle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So what i have a Foul mouth its me accept it or dont respond plain and simple.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And you want to be a mod...luckily ur not one yet
And you want to be a mod...luckily ur not one yet
#16
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Re: (00EM1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Step 13.
Slide out the ICM.. Now look at the 2.. on the right the beat up stock one.. on the right the brand new replacement
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea so which sides which????
Step 13.
Slide out the ICM.. Now look at the 2.. on the right the beat up stock one.. on the right the brand new replacement
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea so which sides which????
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: (00EM1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And you want to be a mod...luckily ur not one yet</TD></TR></TABLE>
What would be so bad about me being a mod? People have a problem with a little bit of Honesty in the world? Im honest and i tell it like it is. Im in here everyday that im available to help you and many others on Honda-tech.
I take my time and Decide to do something nice and helpful for thousands of people by doing a write up. Saving you money so you dont get ripped off by shady mechanics.
So If i feel the liberty to say a bad word ill say it.. its a word. words are meant to be spoken.
And you want to be a mod...luckily ur not one yet</TD></TR></TABLE>
What would be so bad about me being a mod? People have a problem with a little bit of Honesty in the world? Im honest and i tell it like it is. Im in here everyday that im available to help you and many others on Honda-tech.
I take my time and Decide to do something nice and helpful for thousands of people by doing a write up. Saving you money so you dont get ripped off by shady mechanics.
So If i feel the liberty to say a bad word ill say it.. its a word. words are meant to be spoken.
#21
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Re: (00EM1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And you want to be a mod...luckily ur not one yet</TD></TR></TABLE>
go run a 13 flat in your heavy *** Si with I/H/E and then get back to us when you have the skills to write such a infomative thread.
TIME SLIPS TALK
And you want to be a mod...luckily ur not one yet</TD></TR></TABLE>
go run a 13 flat in your heavy *** Si with I/H/E and then get back to us when you have the skills to write such a infomative thread.
TIME SLIPS TALK
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: (I :heart: 4 DOORS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I :heart: 4 DOORS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
go run a 13 flat in your heavy *** Si with I/H/E and then get back to us when you have the skills to write such a infomative thread.
TIME SLIPS TALK </TD></TR></TABLE>
Videos Talk Even Better
I got mine at advanced auto $130
go run a 13 flat in your heavy *** Si with I/H/E and then get back to us when you have the skills to write such a infomative thread.
TIME SLIPS TALK </TD></TR></TABLE>
Videos Talk Even Better
I got mine at advanced auto $130