neo1

to start i have a 95 civic ex with a 1.5 vtec. When it first started acting up it was just randomly sputtering while driving (acting like it had a fowled plug), but i could push the clutch in and rev it up then it would quite. i replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotary button, and fuel filter. still had the same problem. then i was driving down the road and it died and wouldnt start back. check everything and it wasnt getting spark. since then i have replaced the distributor, the mitsuba sensor and the ecu. I also checked the ignition switch. it turns over fine and is getting fuel but still no spark. The only thing i havent checked is to see if it possibly jumped time. Hopefully someone on here has a few ideas.

Former User

Does the distributor rotor turn when you flick the ignition switch? To avoid blowing the coil, remove the 15A hood ECU fuse when you do this test.

neo1

yes

Former User

With the key in ON(II), does the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit have battery voltage?

neo1

i have not checked it as of yet. i need to get a voltage meter before i can check it. but i will get one in the morning and test it.

neo1

All of the wires had power on them except the YEL/GRN. I couldnt see much of the wire do i need to trace it all the way through the car or are there certain places to check it? but it did look ok where it met the distributor.

Former User

Test voltage at the Yel/Grn wire with it still connected to the iginter unit.

neo1

with the yel/grn still attatched i am getting 19.5. while i was out there i also checked for a code wich i got 1 long blink followed by 9 short blinks.

Former User

Double check the voltage reading. It can't be higher than battery voltage, typically about 12.5V.

That's code 19, indicating an automatic transmission malfunction. Do you have a 5-speed transmission?

neo1

ok changed the setting on the meter and got a 3.4 also my car is a 5 speed

Former User

What voltage do read across the two battery posts?

If code 19 is truly thrown, then you have the wrong ECU for an automatic transmission.

neo1

ok i feel retarded but after getting help from my dad with the meter settings i got a 12.53 between battery terminals and a 9.4 on the yel/grn wire attatched

Former User

No problem there^.

Now test whether the 9.4V reaches the ECU at pins A21 and A22.

neo1

I got a 9.34 on what im assuming to be A21. all the diagrams i pulled up show an A,B,C,D connector and mine only has an A,B,C. also no wire in what i thought to be A22

Former User

Did you install a new OEM distributor?

What sensor did you replace?

Any CEL codes thrown after cranking the engine for 30 seconds?

neo1

I installed a remanufactured distributor. the sensor i replaced was the main assist relay and i couldnt get any other CEL codes after cranking

Former User

It's generally referred to as the main relay.

I think you got a bum distributor. Return it for a replacement.

neo1

ok went back out and cranked it fro 30s just to make sure and got 9 long and 2 short blinks

neo1

Ok on the distributor i will return it in the morning

Transporter99

Same thing happened to me. Replaced my distributor and the issue came back later. Hoping this ECU replacement will fix it. But hopefully it's just a dizzy for you.

Former User

Those codes don't sound right. Post a video of the blinking CEL.

neo1

thank you ronj. Took the distributor back today and got another one and the car finaly started. drove it around for a bit and its still doing that sputtering from before it tore and up and the srs light is now staying on. i can rev it up or keep it at a higher rpm and it doesnt do it. but while driving around town it feels like it develops a sever miss but will go away after a few seconds or if i rev the engine.

neo1

and atm i dont have any ways to post a video online