PaPaLu

I have a 00 ex coupe and was wondering if its worth tuning up the d16 or if for that amount of money I should get a new block? And if so what works good with a y8 trans

furious94ls

Turbo it, or swap it. N/A won't give gains for the $ you have to spend.

ek9_beast

^^what's the condition/mileage of current motor? What do you mean by tuning it up? D16 with y8 trans or a full motor and trans swap if you go b-series. What is your hp goal?

PaPaLu

Tuning in the sense of forged Pistons aftermarket header plugs and wires and yea a d16y8 motor and trans with 109k and very clean

PaPaLu

Stock supposively it has 127hp I wanna get to 150-170 nothing to too crazy but when I wanna go fast to have the ability to be able to get up there

ek9_beast

Ok so you have a d16y8 motor already with low miles so why are you looking to replace it? No offense, but that's just not smart because you dont need forged pistons until you hit the 240whp mark. Sounds like you want a cold air intake and full exhaust just to give it a little extra hp. If that's not enough then a cam with a tune will get you there. A tune up is maintenance not adding power. Is it auto or manual?

B20VtecVillain

Your not going to get 150-170 out of a D series without opening the block and building. If you use some P29 pistons, and take a layer out of a stock head gasket, you can get to around 12.5:1 comp or a tad higher and with a decent header and good tuning you can break 150.
For reference before I went boost back when I had my D, I made 156whp with a z6 block, P29s, y8 head and intake manifold, Zex cam, 4-2-1 header, 2.5" mandrel exhaust w/test pipe, tuned on Hondata S100. Power curve was very nice as well and TQ was more than majority of NA B16s I've dyno'd throughout the entire rev range.

ek9_beast

Op, Are you talking 150whp or bhp.. Because that 127 is not at the wheels... I was making my suggestions based on the fact that your trying to add 20-30hp not at the wheels as you were making a comparison to stock hp.

PaPaLu

Yea I want it at the wheels i just didn't know if got n/a would be worth the money as oppose to getting a turbo and killing my motor Bc I do have a automatic. I just feel like when the VTEC kicks in there's so much potential to be released, holding back

ek9_beast

**** villain were blowing smoke, he has an auto. First thing you need to do is get a 5 speed if you're trying to "go fast". The automatic barely holds up under stock power. Go research the 96-00 civic auto trans and you will see what im saying. Get a stick then come back

An auto loses about 30% power at the wheels vs a stick loses about 20%.

B20VtecVillain

Absolutely, if you want to go fast with an auto, get rid of the Civic lol. I have seen maybe two fast auto Hondas, and one was an S2K with a built Chevy trans. The other was indeed a turbo Civic, but had more money into a trans build than I spent building my entire drivetrain.

ek9_beast

^aka waste of money.. Save your money for something better if you want fast. fast auto civic don't go in the same sentence.

B20VtecVillain

To the OP though, your stock auto EX is literally putting down around 95hp if it's healthy and the stock auto is killing your power curve. If you are really hell bent on toying with your auto, do the aforementioned mods of a decent header, full exhaust. Preferably not crush bent junk, a real stainless catback with piping in the 2.25-2.5" diameter for your setup, and have Phearable.net or an equivalent chip your ecu. That should put you around 110-115 to the wheels, which wouldn't make your car fast but would be something you could feel. After that, try getting some weight out of the car; the more the better. While it won't add power, the lighter you get your chassis the faster your car will be with the same power figures. Even with all that done the car will still have anemic performance and your best bet overall is simply to swap to an EX 5speed gearbox. They are inexpensive and will make a night and day difference compared to the performance of your slushbox auto. After that, you can consider boost, building the block, port and machine work etc. But none of that would be worthwhile on a stock auto car.

ek9_beast

Op, in order to chip your ecu you have to convert to obd1 as well.. I don't think its worth the trouble. Get your intake and mandrel bent 2.25" exhaust and call it a day

PaPaLu

Thanks guys yea I might just wait to get a manual hatch to do serious work to it I might make this one just a show car so to say... And the only thing I don't like about certain exhaust setups is that it makes the car sound like a lawnmower is there a certain brand that specializes in quite exhaust systems

ek9_beast

The oval shaped muffler is much more quiet than the round muffler. Name brand such as an apexi n1 would suit you right...

B20VtecVillain

I forgot you said your car was a 2000, so OBD2. Meaning even getting tuned isn't as easy. Honestly with that setup, just keep it stock and enjoy the mileage. A catback and intake is going to add a lot more noise than power, especially on an auto so it's probably best to just leave it alone. A catback and Intake would be worth maybe 5whp and a slight change in your power curve. Nothing to write home abot for sure.

B20VtecVillain

If you really are considering an exhaust though and want a decent sounding quiet style, check out Thermal RD as well. They tend to have a more mellow and deep tone that isn't raspy and weed wackerish. Especially with an automatic.

PaPaLu

Awesome I'll do some research into those guys! Thanks for the advice

Brno

I have looked up a number of Hondas on Kelly Blue Book recently. What I have found is a surprisingly low value for 5th-6th gen Hondas. A 95 hatchback 5 spd with 95K is 1,400 good and 1,700excellent. A 97 Automatic Sedan with 160k was 1,800 or 2,200. While I could see the automatics selling for this, it does not seem to be an accurate valuation of these cars given the supply and demand. If it is correct than I am going to start hoarding a lot of Hondas for $1,500.

cvcrcr99

Go to GDD and post this crap, not in the tech section.

timmydodge

I would like everyone's opinion on the value of my car and what would be realistic to sell for.

It's a 95 EG Si which are real hard to come by I feel. I had all rust removed and primed the quarter panels. So it's ready for paint. It is originally red.

I have:
B20Z Motor JDM High Flow High Compression
GSR w/LSD trans
Hasport Mounts
Custom 3" CAI
Power Driven (TA) 4-2-1 Header
Walboro 225 Fuel Pump
Comp Clutch + Lightweight flywheel
Thermal 3" Exhaust
Custom 3" Test Pipe
16" Rota Slips
Falken Tires
Type R suspensionf
JDM center console conversion
Type R Momo Steering Wheel
Skunk2 shift ****
Pioneer head unit and sub

Interior is in excellent condition.

Thoughts?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Harsh reality time. You never get back what you put in, especially when you cobble together parts. The fact that your car is an SI means nothing anymore. Sorry, hate to break it to you, it's no longer a rare, special little snow flake.

Now that we have that out of the way, realistically, $3000, but that's only if it's running properly. You might be able to squeeze a couple more doll hairs out of it if you had it tuned, and if you fixed the three different shades of red you have going on.

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

NotARacist is right. $3000 is about where it should sell... maybe just a little more for the "right buyer".

ek9_beast

I think its a little on the generous side simply because of the paint situation. Like said above, if it runs good its all good but people tend to like the car to look as good as it runs. I know you're saying its "ready" for paint but to get a nice paint job the person is going to double the money they have in the car and most people aren't looking to pay that so that's what is holding this car back price wise. Good luck with the sell