pebbles38414

OK, so I bought this car 2 weeks ago. Really needed a dependable car and it seemed great during the test drive.
before purchasing it had a
new starter,
alternator,
distributor cap,
battery
After purchasing 3 hrs into driving noticed a oil leak and the car would shift into gear and the clutch pedal would drop to the floor. Al's it would stall as I pressed the brake coming to a stop and when I would start going from a stop it would hesitate like it didn't have enough power the jerk and start going as normal.
Replaced the master cylinder and the car was driving again shifting great but decided to take it to a shop to diagnose the stalling and oil leak.
oil leak was from the oil filter and they said my oil sending unit was bad and that my power brake booster was the cause of the stalling.. well I take it home get all the parts
New brake booster
New oil sending unit
New oil filter and oil change
All Installed!
Start the car and start driving guess what I'm cutting off again.. my uncle got in the car with me and said it seems to be a fuel filter...
Go buy a new fuel filter.. install it... Still stalling.
please help as I have nearly no money left to keep guessing parts and clearly the shop told me over 250 in parts and they were not the answer.

Notes...
After stalling while slowing down it will start back up. I go from 1st gear to 2nd gear and it hesitates like it doesn't have the power to go then it finally gets some gas under her *** and goes. It shifts great seems to idle fine and runs so smooth otherwise!

I appreciate any advice!

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poorman212

Yea, just replacing parts can cost some money.

However, regular maint items are something that need to be done. So, finish the tune up. Said the dist cap was replaced but what about the dist rotor, plugs and inspect the wires? Next I would get a can or two of carb/throttle body cleaner and give the TB and IACV a good cleaning.

I'm assuming the CEL is not on

tamboo

could be tps:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...hread-2830131/

or other stuff:

Starting Problems

sounds like the distributor is a cheap brand x.
replace coil with honda brand, icm with airtex when they crap out.

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

pebbles38414

OK well another question I decided to start the process of a tune up. Today I did try spark plugs and when I went to do those my jaw dropped. In every single spark plug "port" thingy my old spark plugs were completely saturated in oil and I really don't think that's a good sign. Is this going to turn into a motor replacement?

pebbles38414

So the wires look great went to just go ahead and change spark plugs with EKG and old spark plugs were saturated in oil. All 4.. taking this as not a good sign..

holmesnmanny

Run a compression test to check if the motor is still in good condition. If the motor is fine then you likely just need to swap out the valve cover grommets that prevent oil from getting into the spark plug chamber. You can just get a new valve cover gasket set.

poorman212

As "holmes" said, oil in the tubes is nothing to get worries about. Just me but I wouldn't even worry with the compression test. The LX in this gen uses two sets of tube seals, the lower are a bit more to change and not sure of your skill level - don't take that the wrong way. If you are not comfortable doing the lower yourself, at least do the upper seals and see what happens from there - after the change check the "tubes" every now and then to see how much if any oil is getting back in there. II had a new to me 97 SE (same engine set up) a few years back that had the "oil in the tube(s). Replaced the cover gasket and only yhe upper seals, two~three years later when the trans went, still no oil in the tubes

My two cents, don't "F" with the TPS or think there is anything wrong with the dist at this point, sorry "tamboo", bad call IMHO.

Finish the tune up, yes when you pull the plugs a good amount of oil is going to get into the cyl and will cause a bit of a performance issue for a short time - use a rag to soak up as much as you can out of the tubes. Then clean the TB and the IACV and then see what you have - don't make things more complicated than they have to be.

tamboo

the point is to learn to test parts so as to avoid replacing functioning units ie throwing parts at it.
my tps and ect both failed eventually so that's a fact. my hesitation is now gone
and new ignition switch fixed stalling.
cheap chinese parts can be bad right out of the box. see this:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...civic-3114911/

be ready to replace coil and icm. they all fail eventually. likely not the problem here yet
but replacing entire distributor is lazy thinking and the internals are most likely not up to tec standards
mine's been fine with new cap/rotor/coil/icm for 350k.
that is all. 8)

holmesnmanny

Ya, I completetly forgot about the lower spark tube seals. There is a sticky in the faq's on how to replace them and likely something on youtube showing it too.

poorman212

^ Do what . Don't get bent out of shape - you want to tell someone to test the TPS when there is almost nothing to support this IMHO. Your issues could have be resolved by doing that but please read what the OP is posting/stating and then take just a moment and think about it,,,,then think about what you are posting.

"Holmes" - no worries. I was just adding additional information to what you posted.

Again just the way I "read' this thread...OP just got the car, finish the tune up. Oil in the tube could be from a number of places/miles so nothing to stress over right now. Stalling coming to a stop/slowing down......a slight stumble when trying to take off and there are not codes......all I'm trying to say is lets start with the known basic things.