S3_EN

So I have tried over and over again to search on this site for these problems, with no results.

But I still have no clue how to go about fixing them

Problem 1: Drivers side window used to go out of the track, fixed it with silicone spray lubricant and re-adjusting the tracks. No clue if the rubber channel should be replaced or not. But NOW the middle of the window is scraping every time it goes down, no clue what on, no clue why only when it goes down. But I have replaced and even repaired window regulators / tracks before.

Problem 2: Weatherstripping on the drivers side and passenger side are both bad, the local pick-n-pull has pretty decent shape ones. But I don't know how to remove them, or where to buy them online.

Problem 3: Cruise control lights up, but not in dash, pretty certain its the brake switch, however I cannot test with my DMM if its the steering wheel switches, unless I know where the cruise control module resides, and most importantly WHICH WIRES DO WHAT, I couldn't find anything helpful on google, and my FSM is unavailable. (Loaned it to a friend at work) It suddenly stopped working, and upon checking everything out i've found a pack of chewing gum, that the PO has so graciously decided to tape on to the brake stopper area. Also the clutch stopper looks like its not stock. Those stoppers are cheap online, so no biggies.

Video:
Thats about it, hope you guys have encountered these issues before, and or can post a wiring diagram of the CCM's connector. The window thing gets worse every time i roll it down.

MAD_MIKE

Don't force the key in the door lock, that is plastic. If the cylinder does not turn jiggle the key up and down while gently turning. If you force it you are most likely to break the tumbler assembly. Same with the ignition, if it doesn't turn easily verify the key is all the way in, the steering wheel is not locked(rotate it so it takes the pressure off the lock) push the key in slightly further than at normal rest and then gently turn. Forcing the key is what causes wear and tear, along with heavy trinkets, medallions and charms on the key chain.

If the window is becoming scratched near the center, most likely it is the power window regulator that the glass is hitting. It either needs adjustment or is worn and needs replacement. Check the front and rear glass sash(channels the glass rides in) is in good condition. I'm guessing the regulator was replaced and was not installed or adjusted correctly.

Weatherstripping and most rubber bits are still available from Honda.
Compare pricing at Majestic Honda.

CC/Brake switch is one switch, just purchase a new bumper stopper from the dealer ~$2. One from the junkyard will probably be worn or brittle. Readjust the switch after installing new bumper for correct travel and function.

Video was 9 mins and I just skimmed through it.

S3_EN

Oh i'm not forcing it, just wiggle it till it allows me to turn, and the ignition, my left hand doesnt have the muscle memory like my right hand does for the exact turning.
Yes the PO installed a new regulator thinking that was the problem, he put the rear channel in the wrong place, causing the window to come out of the front channel. Then he just pulled the fuse for it and said it didnt work when i bought it.
Now i know theres something fishy because while auto down works and when you push for the window to go down (when its fully down) nothing happens, but when the window is up it still tries to go up, even though it cant.
Maybe the regulator bent as a result of this. No clue on how automatic regulators know when to stop.

It is one switch, but ive heard of guys using pennies to replace it, and while two pennies fixes the brakes, three fix the cruise control (how many pennies thick the stopper is) so i thought i might give it a shot.

Lastly the channel on the driver front is missing rubber between the glass and the metal frame, only on the outside edge though, and only halfway up, i assumed that was supposed to be like that.

Oh and i almost forgot, my engine jerks alot from gear changes, the front mount is ripped entirely, dunno how the rear mount even works or if its worth replacing.

MAD_MIKE

Looks like it as well. Appears he had the mirror removed(it doesn't appear to be quite flush with the door), to get the window out. He may have bent a few things to get the window out. It's not hard, just a few extra steps.
If you can't get your FSM back right away there are a few 94-97 FSMs floating out in the internet.
I don't think there was an auto UP feature,(95EX coupe/97EX Sedan).
AFAIK the switch acts like a circuit breaker. You lock down the button for auto down, the motor pulls the window down until it hits the stop. At which point the motor will try to pull more amps, but the circuit breaker in the switch overload protects and 'pops' the switch off. The circuit breaker resets itself.
I would just replace it with a new rubber stopper. Pennies(hard metal) slamming into the plastic end of the switch is going to damage the switch. Lot cheaper/easier to replace the rubber bumper.
There are separate channels that are in the lower section of the doors to hold the glass in place when the window is open. This prevents rattling and damage to the glass. If you go to Majestic Honda's parts section, look up your model car and you will see the parts of the window mechanism.
Front mount is not really a mount, Honda calls it a 'stopper'. It aides in limiting engine rotation but is not designed to prevent the engine from rotating altogether. If the front mount is ripped, more than likely the rear mount is in need of replacement. Replacing the front mount will stop the excessive movement for a while, but will eventually be torn again as the rear mount is not doing it's job.

If your car is an automatic, verify that the vacuum controls for the rear mount are working, if so then the mount has most likely failed and will need replacement. It is a hydro/mechanical mount with vacuum control. While at idle in gear(stopped) the mount has a valve inside it that opens to allow a larger reservoir to absorb the harmonics which allows the engine to 'float' which dissipates any vibrations to the cabin. When the throttle opens the valve closes and the mount acts like a typical rubber mount, allowing power to be transferred.

S3_EN

It's a manual, i only have 7 bucks after this week, so gonna have to wait another week until i can take a look.

tamboo

you can buy some time by filling the front mounts with window weld, cheap and effective.
really made mine feel like new.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Dow-U-428-Plus-Windshield-Urethane-Primerless-Adhesive-Glue-Sealant-window-/181668356606?hash=item2a4c4721fe&vxp=mtr

S3_EN

Uh... thanks? I'm getting paid this Thursday, will replace on Saturday evening.
I can't find ANY info on these darn motor mounts...

So the one at the front is torn, and the one under the intake in the rear is torn.
But the one at the trans and the one at the timing cover are both fine.

Its a manual, so it looks really easy to replace if I just remove the intake tube (which is torn too, btw) and then it looks like 4 bolts, all 15mm to me.

Only videos I could find online are for the ATX, so I would make a video for mine. The front one I know will be easy, not being a load-bearing motor mount, my question is if I replace the front motor mount, and the side mounts are both good, do I still need to support the engine for the rear mount replacement?
Is there any brackets or things in the way of removing it the way I was saying?

MAD_MIKE

IIRC the cross through is a larger bolt head than the mount bolts.
That is precisely what the two side mounts do, they support the engine/drivetrain. Rear mount is to prevent rotating, front mount is to prevent excessive rotation.
Pull off the front bracket and mount first.
Loosen the cross through bolt on the rear. If it is hard use a jack and block of wood under the oil pan and gently raise/rotate the engine enough to allow the bolt enough room to spin. Just want to alleviate the pressure so as not to damage the bolt threads.
Remove the three bolts holding the mount onto the rear crossbeam, and slightly rotate the engine/drivetrain to clear the mount from the engine/trans bracket. Slide/rotate the mount out. Might have to remove the upper intake manifold stay bracket that bolts to the block for more room.