slowFTW

I'll try and be as informative as possible but I'm not too sure what info you guys will need until you let me know :]

5speed 2.2vtec SOHC

1.) No revs past 4500-5000 rpm while driving
-I've checked oil levels (good)
-No Check Engine Light showing issues.
-Car is aquatically warmed up.
-Tried the paperclip in the blue male connector under glove box to throw code and nothing happened.

Besides that car runs outstanding. Very clean and all. I'm mainly worried about issue #1. If anyone has experience with this please help me out.I can provide any extra information if needed. Car is right outside my bedroom window lol.

--Disregard these Issues I Posted Originally--
2.) Weird car shaking during normal and hard acceleration between I'm thinking 2100-2500rpm.
(FIXED) It was the motor mounts. Motor is smooth now. Mounts were expensive though :/
3.)Weird light rubbing noise at 1700-2000 rpm from engine while remaining at that rpm moving and also parked. It's faint but noticeable.
(FIXED) Issue was also do to the old worn motor mounts.


Thanks H-T

mxracer04

does it sound like it hits a rev limiter at 4500? If so I would say check your map sensor.

slowFTW

I researched how to check and wanted to make sure this is correct.

To Check MAP sensor, remove 2 bolts holding MAP sensor to Intake. Apply black lead of voltmeter to a ground and put red lead pinned into green wire of MAP sensor. Voltage should read 5-/+ volts.

Also, I am wondering how this would be the issue without throwing a code?I do know Honda provides Check Engine codes for the MAP sensor.
I'm checking it now and will let you know what I find.

Yes, it does hit a rev limiter at 4500.
I have another question, also. When is vtec suppose to engage (rpm) on a 1994 Accord? I can't seem to get a straight forward answer on other forums I've checked.

slowFTW

MAP sensor is good. Anyone else have any suggestions?

Checked it with a vac pump, @ every 10ibs psi, it typically dropped 1volt. Everything is working as should pertaining to the MAP sensor.

Rad Racing

VTEC engages around 2800 on the F22B1.

slowFTW

Ok new issue...

I'm at my wits. Everything is dead on the car! I disconnected the battery trying to reset the ecu. reconnected the battery and turned the key over to start the engine. and then everything went completely dead!

It's as if there is no battery connected to the car... Not a single thing is working. Please tell me I just blew a fuse :c
I checked all the fuses that are under the hood (to my knowledge) and they all seem ok. What am I missing?
I have to be at work in an hour please help me guys.

slowFTW

I checked dc on battery and battery is perfectly fine

slowFTW

Hey, nevermind. I cleaned my battery terminals and heard a click from the engine bay dash. Engine starts again. Thank baby jesus!

So now I'm back to my original question.

Revving up to only 4500rpm. Thank You Rad Racing for the tip of vtec @2800rpm.
Would anyone know why the engine doesn't go past 4500rpm? I wouldn't think the rev governor would be set to this... but is it a possibility?

gogydm

What happens if you speed up in third and then shift back to second (when engine would be revving above 4500RPM)? I can't comment on issue number two. And I also hear the same noise around the same RPM, and I believe my friend's car does it too (I have a 97 EX and he has a 97 SE). I am yet to figure out what causes that.

Lost Again

Please describe this more...nothing happened, meaning the light did not come on?

slowFTW

that's correct. When I turn the key out the engine light comes on and then turns off when the fuel pump is finished priming as normal.

slowFTW

That's a good question but if it is an engine problem that is the issue and the ecu wont allow me to rev past that rpm I'm only guessing it is for a good reason. I'd rather not chance it by tricking it from 3rd to 2nd.

poorman212

So you jump ther service connector turn the key on, light comes on, then as the main relay closes (or what ever) the light goes off..........

slowFTW

Yes, the engine light comes on (hear fuel pump priming) after it finishes priming engine light goes off as it should. In other words, there is no check engine light whether the test connector under the dash is shorted or not as should be, except when the key is turned to on on the ignition. ( I usually wait till the check engine light and fuel priming stops before I start the car). Engine light nor ecu showing any issue. Only issue I am seeing is what I've posted in the original Post.

slowFTW

Hey Does anyone have any ideas of issues rather than ask me the same questions I've already given details about? I'd really wanting to get this thing running optimally.Thanks Eerybody :]

Rubycb7

I had this issue before and went thru numerous troubleshooting.. I check my idle air control sensor..then the intake air charge temp sensor and tps sensor.. I check them all and might have replaced a few.. I also had a vaccum prob.. Cuz of a swap.. What kind of ecu are u running?

slowFTW

Everything on the car is stock. Nothing on it has been touched.

slowFTW

Bump.
lol
Still never got this fixed

Slammed95Cord

i have the same problem... started when i did auto to manual swap and kept the auto ecu... found a 5spd ecu but it turned out to be an LX ecu therefore non vtec... still looking for a 94-95 accord EX 5spd ECU... if anyone has one laying around hit me upppp

underdog217

hey im pretty new member, and dont mean to be rude but my problem is a bit relevant. Im having problems getting my car started, just recently i had my car, a 1994 honda civic dx l.5l 5spd, broken into and my ecu was stolen. When i tried to start it all i could hear was the starter. I waited and finally got another P06 ecu in the mail, when it arrived i just plugged it in my car waited ten minutes, and it started just fine. Now this is where the problem kicks in, after my car was running fine i decided to turn it off and remove the ecu just to see if i could take it with me in the house to prevent it from being stolen, once i plugged it back in 20 min later, i would turn the ignition from position 1-2 and i could hear the fuel pump working, but when i moved it from position 2-3 i heard nothing, the starter wasn't responding at all. Can you please help me with this, i was wondering if i could have possibly ruined the starter or the ignition system by pulling out the ecu and how can i get it functional again.

Rubycb7

Not reving past 4500? Try your dizzy mos def it should b it cuz i have a f22b1 and that def happened to me... Oh yeah make sure all your vacuum lines are hookedup properly and not leaking...

2009antz

if your dizzy doesnt work check and clean your egr valve. it causes this problem frequently