2kdrift

b16's stopped being produced 17 years ago, finding one in perfect condition with original bore is a longshot. Maybe just buy new pistons?

HMO would probally be best bet, but for that price you could sleeve your block

Edit: oops I already told u this

Mjalaly

Your not following and I was going to ignore this but that doesn't help anyone. I am sleeving a block regardless to make sure the pistons fit exactly. The ISSUE is that the line hone on my block is too bad to mess with. I need to find a block with a good line and whatever on the cylinders sinice I will sleeve it anywhoo.

my block is junk at this point. So does anyone know of a reputable source to get a block from that isn't eBay or craigslist? Two of the shops around here came up with nothing.

Mjalaly

Anyone else have any ideas on where to get a block?

Arias said the pistons are fine and they are going to clean them up and get me new rings but i have no block. I have called a few places to see about fixing the line hone on the engine i have but two of the shops locally that can do it are 6-8wks out. Any help on finding a block would be great!!

JDMarv

HMO or any importer around you. but they most likely wont just sell a block.

Mjalaly

UPDATE:

Pistons checked out fine by arias and I have the back with a new polish, rings and spirol locks.
I also have a good engine block. The shop said the line hone was good but the bores were .020 over so they are going to re-sleeve it and bore it to spec. It should be done this week
So now i just need to pick up a ring compressor, ring filer, bearings and plastigage.

Question though.... should i just order a set of main and rod end bearings from ACL and just swap out the ones that are out of spec with the right OEM color or is there a better way to do it??

2kdrift

IMO all ACL. or are you saying that wont work?

Mjalaly

no but I assume that when I go to plasti gage them some will fall out of Hondas tolerance due to machining tolerances. I don't know how that wouldn't be the case.

LightningTeg

It really depends. I mean my rods and mains were from 0.0015 to 0.0018 and I thought it was acceptable. Bottom end still rocking at 600whp 5 years later . Build it on the loose side IMO (Type R specs are close to what I ended up with)

Mjalaly

ok but I would still need to order a full set and change the ones that are out of spec (if any) correct??

Mjalaly

ok but I would still need to order a full set and change the ones that are out of spec (if any) correct?? If that's the case I will order full sets and go from there.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

Why not measure the parts first then order bearings once you figure out what you need?

Mjalaly

because measuring inside bore diameters is very difficult without bore gages. I don't have any that size. We are also talking about .001" or less.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

I think it's generally agreed that plastigauge is not considered a primary method of checking clearances. My opinion is that it's cheaper to buy the right tool than rebuild the engine. I'm sure, especially with your engine experiences, you would agree. With all due respect if you don't have the tools or skills to do it right pay someone who can.

Mjalaly

You beat me to it already. Yeah, went ahead and measured everything in my climate controlled clean room on this other block to the .00000 place (seriously). I then realized i cannot get +.25 bearings from honda. kind of a moot point.

Mjalaly

Any real benefit in running the type r or ACL oil pump??

http://realstreetperformance.com/Shop-by-Engine/Oil-Pumps_3/

Mjalaly

About to get started. wish me luck!

Mjalaly

I got most of the engine assembled this weekend. Everything fell right into spec so hopefully this one last longer then the others. I was getting between .0015 and .0018 with the dial bore gage and the plasti-gage agreed. Now i just need to torque the head down, install the cams and intake/exhaust parts.

LightningTeg

Solid! looks clean

boosted94gsr

x2

Good work man.

2kdrift

did you end up going with an ACL pump?

just curious I was waiting for others to respond as the general consensus on that is OEM will work fine.
I actually have a somewhat aftermarket pump which is basically a glorified OEM pump that has been ported and most likely shimmed I also gasket matched the port on the block itself. Its been working just fine for me im sure a completely OEM pump would work just as well, but cant complain Cold starts is around 85 PSI before Oil squirter delete

Apocalypse Racing Import Techs | Motor swaps

Mjalaly

I just used a stock pump. No one said anything. The pump you have looks interesting though.

I also looked at switching to a 4qrt or 5 qrt moroso oil pan instead of my baffled one but lots say they leak. Not sure if it will be better than what I have or not.

2kdrift

Ahh Ive seen shodan down talk my pump on california dads thread so you should feel fine with OEM, again havent had issues with my pump either it seemed pretty quality to me it is a reworked OEM pump.

I think all oil pans leak unless you install the gasket just right, been using the myhondahabbit gasket and no leaks with my oem pan, personally I would rather have an OEM pan with the Password JDM baffle kit which i beleive is what you are using

LightningTeg

I dont see any advantage to moroso pan. Drain is in a crappy location and they dont quite fit as good as oem.

Mjalaly

yeah i am just looking for piece of mind with the oil pump and oil pan.

I just looked at the cams they have some scoring on the journals so those will need to be reworked. Any issue with using the cams out of the b18 if they are in good shape?

boosted94gsr

gsr cams are an upgrade from b16 cams, itr or ctr cams are even better you want ones from 00-01 year I believe, but they can be hard to find. Just grab a set of gsr cams, easy to find and cheap.