drmix

Slicks are the only way to go. The only time i snapped an axle was on street tires.

Also remember more weight = more traction which could explain why your having issues now when you didnt in the civic.

boosted94gsr

Its not a matter of practice for me it's more about having the car setup right. I have a lot of drag racing experience with a lot of 12 second passes on street tires with fwd cars and I have a good amount of passes on slicks under my belt from over the years too. You are absolutely right about the r888s being a terrible tire for the drag strip, although I do like them on the street. Slicks won't come until next year anyways. Until then I'm going to continue to make improvements to the car.

boosted94gsr

The track photographer got some pics from the track the other day. There is one more track day before it closes down for the winter, but I think I'm gonna go ahead and wait until next year when the car is setup better. I thought the last pic of me was pretty funny, I look mad as hell lol, but I was having a friendly conversation with one of the other racers.

On a a side note I replaced the sway bar end links with napa brand standard replacement and I'm still getting the weird knocking noise. The oe end links were very worn an looked ready to snap at any second. Idk I'll figure it some day I guess

Cabletie

Awesome and clean build!!! Congratulations!!!!

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

I have seen you quote this several times in past. Hondas brochures for the type r cited it as a helical LSD. I have held the gears in my hand and they are helical gears. They are a slightly different arrangement than a Wavetrac or Quaife and does give up some strength compared to those companies. I would agree that the helical style OEM lsd is stronger than the clutch or viscous types though. Anything over 300hp on a oem lsd and I feel like you are on borrowed time.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I quoted this rather specifically, as I've held the gears as well. This wasn't just some "reasearch". What I've found is that Torsen the company on the Hondas use a similar profile as a helical gear, but they react differently, than the Quaife and Wavetrac system. (It's hard to describe in words, really more in driving). I can only say is if possible, take a Honda OEM LSD'd car to a circuit (not a drag strip) and take about 3-5 laps in it, concentrating on the amount of understeer the car exhibits as you come out of the apex going into a back straight or an area that won't go into a counter Chicane. Then do the same with a Quaife.. You'll notice that the reaction time for the quaife is much quicker to counter the under steer ( or even torque steer if coming from off of the turn to a high acceleration point) than the Torsen.

Again, I'm just probably describing this in a way that can't be translated without video or something. Perhaps I'll see if I can test two cars in the spring with my GoPro to show the differences.

Either way, it's not going to work well with the amount of torque that this particular car is producing. (Notice I said torque not "POWAA")

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

There isn't a "similar to" helical or not. Either it is a helical gear or it isn't. No one is arguing that each differential may feel different on the track. They may have different gear profiles that alter the torque biasing ratio that will make them react differently. IIRC Quaife offers a drag spec LSD that has a different torque biasing ratio. Don't take this the wrong way but please stop spreading the misinformation that the stock ITR LSD is not a helical gear when it obviously is.




Attachment 424455

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

"Don't take this the wrong way". Hehe whenever someone starts a sentence like that, it's horribly hypocritical. You're trying to be aggressive with your point. That's good, stop trying to sugar coat it.. I'm a big boy.

That's like saying: "Not to cut you off, but......." (*whisper*-- You're still 'cutting me off').

I don't think what I'm spreading is misinformation, when the gearing behaviour is quite different than what the average person who is using an OEM LSD vs an aftermarket one is able to do in a practical situation.
You're going by your experiences, as I'm going by mine, and we can agree to disagree. Ok?

But will still attest that the behaviours and some portions of the of the two are different for the purpose that the OP is using it for. If you're saying I've said that before, then you'll also find the source of the information that I utilized. You can see my post history. Check it out.

I appreciate the directness and honesty and passion of your position.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

I do not wish to derail this thread any further than I have already. You have a lot of wisdom and experience and this is appreciated throughout the community. It is annoying that you have difficulty admitting when you are not correct.

2kdrift

boosted94gsr

lol I love sponge bob, well at least my daughters do haha.

So this knocking noise is still there and seems to be getting worse. I'm sure the sway bar is not hitting the shift linkage now. Could the LSD be making the noise?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm sorry that your annoyed. I sure hope there aren't any hard feelings.

pushinlsteg

I had an ITR trans 2 builds ago and it broke my pass axle as well. None of my open diffs did. I hooked great on the street and horrible at the track (street tires). the diff wasn't noisy. Does your knock change with gears? neutral coasting etc? perhaps jack the front end up and rotate the assembly by hand and listen closely for anything out of the ordinary?

boosted94gsr

The noise doesn't seem to change in different gears, always sounds about the same. A couple quick light knocks witch are felt through the shifter. I have jacked the front up and spun the wheels by hand, both directions, holding one wheel stopped while spinning the other, no wierd noises or clunking. Both tires spin the same direction when I turn one, witch is to be expected with an LSD. There is resistance when holding one stopped and spinning the other, but it's smooth. IDK...

Thanks for the input though man.

pushinlsteg

If you want my honest opinion and it's a scary one... and I wish I could feel exactly what you are talking about but if all is functioning as supposed to other than that knocking it sounds like a single tooth may be cracked or missing on the pinion or gear in that diff. I've had that twice. one was an open diff LS trans the other was my first s2000's which led me to 4.77s! which I used out of the front differential of a Kia sportage... that's another story lol

edit: both occurred from severe wheel hop. Integra at the track and s2000 was a 8000rpm clutch dump against some 350z back in 2006. yes I won cause he wouldn't launch the 350 hard. not sure if that one was worth it lol

boosted94gsr

I bought a tig welder about 6 weeks ago. I went with an ahp alpha tig 200, so far I'm super happy with. Today I started making my own catch can. I'm going to relocate my battery to the trunk, and run my catch can in the battery tray. Still waiting for -10an bungs to come in and haven't decided exactly how I'm going to vent it yet, but it should be finished up soon. I gotta say I'm pretty happy with my welds so far.

The car car is still running great. I've put about 3,000 miles on it so far. That random knocking noise went away completely, so weird lol. I also ordered another set of nitto neo gen tires to replace the r888s. I get insane wheel hop with the super stiff side walls that the r888s have. When I swapped my rear neo gens on the front and I got zero wheel hop. Plus the neo gens are stupid cheap for how well they work. I went 12.3@123 in my old hatch with them.

Will update when I get more done.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Very nice welding job. I never did like those big battery sized catch cans, but you've saved a ton, and it looks well-put together.

effin

iTrader: (1)

Just read through your build! Very nice diy, attention to detail, and not overdoing your setup. I love the 4 door and your entire build. Very dope!

LightningTeg

Damn those welds look great man! What are the settings on the machine if you dont mind me asking? 1/8" 6061? Also dig the hold down tripod thing. Weldingtipsandtricks?

I need to build a garage before I bust mine out again.

boosted94gsr

Thank you sir. Yeah I don't really like giant battery sized catch cans either, that's why I made this one a little smaller. It's only 6x5x5".


Thanks


Thanks man! Yeah it 1/8" 6061, filler rod used was 3/32" 4043, 145amps for the outside corner joints (controlled with foot pedal), the t-joints were about 160amps, AC balance 35%, AC frequency ~120hz, all pulse settings were turned off, just worked the foot pedal to control the puddle. I used a #6 gas lens, ~18 cfh of argon with 3/32" 2% lanthanated electrode. Yeah I build that 3rd hand after seeing so many videos of how helpful they are. Weldingtipsandtricks has been very helpful for sure.

93h2beg

great work, great read, thank you!

boosted94gsr

Thanks man.



I got some more work done. Just about have my catch can finished, only thing left is mounting it to the battery trey. I'm not too sure I 100% like the way it's turning out, but that's the nice thing about making your own stuff is you can always change it or make another one. I'll have to wait until I get it completely installed in the car to make up my mine I guess lol. I've never tig welded a bung on before, but I'm happy with how they turned out. Each one I welded was better then the one before. It's kind of weird welding around a small circle, but it's all a learning process and I'm really like the whole tig welding process so far. I also made a battery trey for the trunk out of angled steel I had laying around. More to come soon.

Honda_Cribb_GS-R

Catch can came out awesome!

Aradin

That looks awesome man. That's really some top quality work.

boosted94gsr

Thanks guys!