PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I hooked my AEM wideband o2 sensor up to my Hondata S300 and im not getting a reaading on the AEM gauge. I installed the white 0-5v wire to my 02 wire at the ECU and set the ECU in the closed loop via closed loop parameters. I disabled the o2 heater while in the same menu. I know that you have to off set the voltage after the install but I am not getting a reading on the AEM gauge to compare the offset. I am getting a reading in Smangager..

This is installed on a stock integra ls engine w/ 310cc injectors. I adjusted the fuel trim from the stock 240cc to 310cc and thats it. The car starts and idles fine once it's warm. When it is cold it searches a bit but stays at 1000 after warm


Can I drive my car in open loop and leave it with the wideband gauge hooked up? I have the stock tune provided by hondata on the ECU. Should I look towards the O2 being bad or running lean? Stock fuel pump and fuel pressure is 36 @ idle and I set it up with the injectors primed @ 41psi. Any suggestions would help.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

What input are you running the aem's 0-5 volt output to ?

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I'm using the o2 sensor (white) wire or D14. I have read that when the WB sensor goes bad that the sensor is supposed to read lean off the charts. I am going to make sure the AEM gauge is set to P0 on the back and then replaced the o2. Unless you have another suggestion.

shawn69

You shouldn't need any voltage compensation, just make sure your table is correct.

at 0v the AFR is 10
at 5v the AFR is 20

Make sure your wideband and ecu are grounded to the same spot, the thermostat.

It makes a difference!!

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

I would suggest switching to the ELD input (D10) for 0-5v logging.

The O2 input is capped from factory at 3.84 volts or so, so when logging you won't be able to log anything above that number. Which isn't a big deal really, but if you use the ELD input you will get the full range of the output.

Also what AEM wideband are you using?

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I am using the wideband that came with the gauge. It is the gauge style unit though. I can't remember off the top of my head what sensor it is. Even if I unhook the ECU from the o2 the gauge leans out off the chart even with a rev. I know I should be rich running 310cc injectors with stock fuel pressure right? I can increase fuel at idle and hear and feel the difference in the engine.

The reason I was running the WB to the o2 is b/c I was'nt running the stock o2. Can I do that if I stay in open loop and drive off the tune? I am using a stock engine with 310cc

Back to the problem. Like I said the gauge is just leaning out off the chart. I have read that this is what they do when the sensor goes bad. So, I think I am going to order a replacement.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I think it's either how I have it hooked up or it's the O2. I didn't run the ground straight to the chassis. I tapped the radio harness wires to get a solid 12v wire and ran the ground to the same harness. I noticed that the fuse popped after looking around for a while so. I am going to ground to the chassis and change the fuse and see if that works.

dpetro1

it looks like you found your issue...but forget all the 0-5v datalogging for now and first get the wideband displaying correctly. All you should need is power and ground. Find a solid ground and see if that fixes the gauge display. Once thats setup then you can datalog using the 0-5v output with your s300.

also i dont think you should be running in closed loop because the aem wbo2 doesnt have a 0-1v narrwoband output which your ecu (d14) requires to operate closed loop. so put the car in open loop and datalog through d10 (eld). some brands like plx do have a 0-1v output if you want to run it like a replacement sensor

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I do have the tune setup in open loop. It will stay like that until I get the extra bung welded in. Then I will go back to closed loop with the narrowband sensor.

I replaced the fuse and relocated the ground. Didn't blow a fuse again. I gave the car a little gas and the meter jumped a slight bit back into range but went to lean again and It has only done this like once. Any way to check the 02 sensor to make sure it is in good shape? I checked rotary position on the back of the gauge and it was in P03 so I put that on P00. I think that is the correct position for gas. If I take the sensor out of the gauge it reads 14.8. Keep the help coming.

I checked my spark plugs and one of them looked a bit lean. The others seemed to be a little brown. I can take pictures tonight. The car idles fine it seems a little popping but im running an open header right now. The exhaust is not hooked up yet. It seems if I was off the chart lean I would be having some problems idling? I hooked my laptop up and increased the fuel at idle and the engine changed parameters but the 02 stayed reading lean off the chart.

And I hooked the 5v wire up to the ELD wire at the ECU. I think hondata showed 4.56v or so on the sensor window will letting datalog run. I can record on if that would help.

Thanks,
Ryan

shawn69

I have my 12v wideband source from my radio too, so don't worry about that.

When you unplug the sensor the gauge reads 14.8? That sounds good too, it should be 2.37v going into hondata, so check hondata when the sensor is unplugged and see if it also reads 2.37v or 14.7 AFR. If it is very close don't worry about the discrepancy.

If that is correct also, just see what its idling at, check the ELD voltage (since your using ELD not O2) and AFR. Make sure they both make sense

ie:

If ELD= 2.1v, this is then equal to an AFR of 14.2

You said your voltage was 4.56v at idle? Your engine won't idle at 19:1 afr, so make sure you just didn't splice your O2 in while still leaving the eld connected.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I took a look at the voltage with the power on in the car.

ELD = 2.73v compared to your 2.37v
A/F = 15.53

I still need to run the ground to the thermostat housing. So this might correct my voltage offset.

Maybe you can help me out with some wiring here. My car is obd 0 but I converted to OBD 1 ok. Now, I looked up the ECU pinout for obd 1 and followed it back to my stock ECU plugs (wiring side of the harness). My ELD was cut like 5 inches off the plug and my 02 sensor is like that too. I got a rywire obd 1 conversion harness and had to swap to a 4 wire 02 sensor. The rywire harness just taps into the o2 wire in the conversion harnes and goes to the 4 wire o2 sensor and the harness wire (Grey rywire wire) ends at my stock 0bd 0 plugs . And at the plug is where there is a cut 4" wire that would normally run to the stock 02.

Im not sure what happened to the ELD wire b/c this is work done pryer to me owning the car. But I did get the ELD code when I first started the car. I then disabled it in hondata to turn the CEL off. So that is what my 5v white wire is connected to now. So the ELD is not hooked up to anything other than 5v wire from the wideband. So I do not think the ELD is the problem. IDK.

shawn69

That is with the sensor disconnected right?

Its not "my" 2.37v that is the gauge(which is the controller for the AEM) should output with the white 0-5v wire when the sensor is disconnected.

I hope you've read this http://www.aempower.com/images/produ...%2030-4100.pdf

The good- they correspond to eachother
The bad- its not at 14.7

I'm not sure why, can't help you too much there just change the ground and check it again.

For the wiring, I have a obd0-s300 converted car also. I don't really understand what your asking with the wiring but this is what I did:

Looked on the obd1 ecu for the correct pin, D10 for ELD or D14 for 02, followed it on the conversion harness. Make sure your looking from the correct side if you unplug the harness. Connect the 0-5v output from the wideband to the appropriate one, solder crimp heatshrink what ever you want.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

Dude, let me just say thanks for helping me out. I really do appreciate it. I know it's something so small thats messing the reading up lol. The gauge worked when I had my turbo setup on my sedan and it has just been sitting around since.

I think the problem is going to be the ground. A few people said it will throw the offset off if it's not grounded to the same place as the ECU. So I am going to ground it to the thermostate.

I have read that PDF from AEM a few times and it makes more sense everytime I read it. I'm new to hondata so i'm learning as I go but it's coming a long nice now. I will change the ground out and see. Would the ground throw the reading off on the gauge though? Making it read off the chart lean? Or would that just inpact my voltage reading going to Hondata.

The wiring isn't a big deal since the voltage is checking out. Basically the ELD and the 02 wires were cut from the cars wiring harness. So I did what you did and traced from the obd 1 pins D10 and D14 to find which wire it went to on the OBD 0 car harness. Upon following the lines I noticed that my the wires were cut.

So it was my (obd 1 ECU ->-->- conversion harness->-->- obd 0 plugs ---- ELD and 02 wires only 5" long coming off my plug. So it didn't run to anything. Since I would have had to cut the ELD wire anyway it was ok. So I just hooked up the 5v white wire to that and it runs to the ECU. I know it's confusing lol but it's all good b/c works.

I can't wait to get this connected b/c it looks a lot easier to get the fuel maps together with the wideband going to hondata.

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to add that I have not removed the 136 and 138 resistors from my ECU it's a US OBD 1 LS ECU. Could this be my problem or the volts not matching?

d16z6Tcrx

yes

PR8urVtec

iTrader: (1)

I got the s300 working with the wideband. I grounded out at the thermostate and had to offset the voltage -0.1 and it hits pretty much spot on.

DustinRose

i am thinking of buying the aem uego, i am curious about open and closed loop
over the summer i had my b20vtec tuned at a dyno...they took my stock o2 out in order to tune my car. once they were done, they put my stock o2 back in, and i went home. car runs really great....now im finally ready to get a wideband and begin tuning, i have s300.

i was curious about open/closed loop, because with the aem i would have to eliminate my stock o2, unless i weld another bung to the exhaust....
i opened smanager and looked at my current tune's loop setting and the tuner has it set to "open loop"

does this mean i am always in open loop? and have been for 6 months? and i could just buy the aem, wire it to the eld pin, and forget about my stock o2? and not worry about running in closed loop at all?

if the answer to there is yes then i will go ahead and buy an aem uego, if no....then i will probably get the SM-AFR + DM-5 combo made by PLX

DustinRose

here is a screen shot of the "closed loop" tab in Smanager's Preferences....

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

If have you been running with the car in open loop (closed loop disabled in smanager) then yes, you can just run the 0-5v output to the ELD pin and that will allow you to log the A/F via smanager.

When doing so make sure to cut out R136 and R138 on the ECU and also make sure to disable the ELD parameter in the tune file.

DustinRose

ahh thanks, cool, makes sense
and thanks for reminding me about the two resistors, i probably would have forgotten that and ended up with the voltage issues ive read about

DustinRose

one more question though......are there any advantages to running in closed loop? other than the ecu adjusting the map to accommodate a lean or rich mixture suspected by the narrow band o2?
does it help miles per gallon? or anything like that?

dpetro1

having a narrowband sensor feedback to the ecu (closed loop) is probably going to be more effecinet than trying to get the tune spot on by yourself (open loop). in open loop you are in complete control of each cell of the map so the car will do exactly as you tell it. in the end, with a good tune i dont think you will notice much of an mpg difference

Hondadaman

Do you feel like the narrow band works well?

dpetro1

I do not understand the question?

Langford360

I just hooked up my Aem Wideband into the D10 eld spot and the laptop shows about 1.0 afr leaner than my wideband gauge. what am i doing wrong?