Rear Mounting Radiator
#1
Rear Mounting Radiator
I've been contemplating this idea for few weeks now and now making the plans to make it happen.
problems/reason I wanna do this. I have an all drag car no street driving, gutted caged interior, 92 civic hatch battery and fuel cell already in the trunk. when I had it tuned, I had to hook up a huge BMW radiator with extended hose on the front of the car to cool the car. my radiator in the original space was reduced in size 4" smaller because I am using a full-race dual backdoor intercooler with 3" piping and could not fit the original size in the spot, big intercooler blocking flow of air, hot engine bay, top mount twin scroll. car gets hot after a short drive or burnout.
execution:
I plan on getting a huge aluminum radiator with shroud and dual 12" fans, something like the wrx radiator without the filler neck and weld one on. the radiator will be mounted face down using backet above the back seat location/ maybe cutting a hole the shape of the radiator and shroud it also, this would be using the location of the stock fuel tank which I no longer use, fans blowing down, will look and function great.
concerns:
what would be the best material to make the hoses, and how to run them, was thinking steel braided which is very pricey for the size and length. 1.5 aluminum too many bends, and since I don't weld aluminum it would be very pricey too. last option rubber/bulk heater hose with hose clamps running through the exhaust tunnel.
has anyone done this or have seen this done on any car?
I know some will as why? answer up top. some will ask why not change the intercooler and piping? I will not redesign my setup I will work with what I already have.
edit: it might be a bitch to bleed the air out too.
problems/reason I wanna do this. I have an all drag car no street driving, gutted caged interior, 92 civic hatch battery and fuel cell already in the trunk. when I had it tuned, I had to hook up a huge BMW radiator with extended hose on the front of the car to cool the car. my radiator in the original space was reduced in size 4" smaller because I am using a full-race dual backdoor intercooler with 3" piping and could not fit the original size in the spot, big intercooler blocking flow of air, hot engine bay, top mount twin scroll. car gets hot after a short drive or burnout.
execution:
I plan on getting a huge aluminum radiator with shroud and dual 12" fans, something like the wrx radiator without the filler neck and weld one on. the radiator will be mounted face down using backet above the back seat location/ maybe cutting a hole the shape of the radiator and shroud it also, this would be using the location of the stock fuel tank which I no longer use, fans blowing down, will look and function great.
concerns:
what would be the best material to make the hoses, and how to run them, was thinking steel braided which is very pricey for the size and length. 1.5 aluminum too many bends, and since I don't weld aluminum it would be very pricey too. last option rubber/bulk heater hose with hose clamps running through the exhaust tunnel.
has anyone done this or have seen this done on any car?
I know some will as why? answer up top. some will ask why not change the intercooler and piping? I will not redesign my setup I will work with what I already have.
edit: it might be a bitch to bleed the air out too.
Last edited by rudebwoy; 09-05-2011 at 10:25 AM.
#3
Don't call it a comeback
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Re: Rear Mounting Radiator
My bud has one in his rear bumper. Just put your filling neck high or jack up the car. It will be a bitch to bleed but you will have more room. A few of my domestic friends put them in the rear on their street cars. I do not see how they bleed them though.
#6
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#8
Re: Rear Mounting Radiator
the radiator was to mount it on the floor of the bed. I fabbed a bracket that held the radiator 24" from the front of the bed. The top of it was about even with the bed rails.make a run in and then shut down but that's about it.have used rubber hose all the way to the back but I like the fact that the water will lose heat on the way to the radiator and back when running metal pipe. You definitely must have an air bleed at the highest point of the motor. I used a petcock from a radiator to purge the air out. I also drill a small 1/8" hole in the t stat so when you fill up your system it will bleed all the air out instead of having to warm the motor up to finish filling. Also I've seen a lot of systems done wrong where they crossed the hoses and ran the return to the bottom and the suction to the top. Make sure the lower radiator hose goes to the bottom of the radiator and the top hose to the top.....and make sure you get lots of air flow across the radiator....properly designed systems will work with all the stock parts.
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