Problemo

Hey folks,

I got an EK civic coupe, SIR I believe it is over in the states, I've recently gone about installing some ICE in there which has sort of consumed any useful trunk space.

I was thinking, I read a post on here to do with a guy and his VW Bora and the way the boot lid opened with hydraulic struts. I understand it would have to be a custom job but has anyone ever tried it ?

Any suggestions for removing the arms that hold the boot open would be appreciated, with them out of the way the scope for a neat factory looking system is huge, and I can use my boot for actually putting stuff in.

The other prob I'm having is rattling panels, It's definatly not the speakers the rear shelf seems to rattle a lot as well as the rear interior panels. Any recommendations for tightning them up, dynamat is good for certain things but the thing still rattles like hell, even without the system pumped up !

The noise is gettin to the point where im thinking of selling the car, everytime u go over a bump its rattle rattle rattle, driving me up the wall !

Any advice/pics/ANYTHING would be great, then I can finish off the engine !

4uhataz

are you talking about using linear actuators to open and close the trunk?

Problemo

I suppose you could call it that, although actuator is probably the wrong word. It's like the struts which keep the hatch on a hatch back open only smaller. You get where I'm coming from ?

t0p_sh0tta

He's looking for a strut type system similar to what you find on Accords. The 2 "arms" that Civic's use drop down too far into the trunk when it is closed. I'd be interested in something similar to this also, if anybody has any suggestions. I need a bigger box.

rcurley55

I hope not linear actuators. What I believe you are speaking of is replacing the torsion bars that run across the rear parcel shelf with some gas charged struts.

Here's the thing - finding the proper strut is a PITA. Generally, to find the throw that you need to open the trunk, you need a pretty long strut, so they can not run completely parallel to the ground, they need to be angled. Out of all of the designs that I have looked at, it appears that something off of a hatchback or SUV would be the appropriate length.

There are a few people that I know of who have done this exact thing in order to mount woofers in and infinite baffle config on the rear shelf. So, in my experience, it can be done, but will require some custom brackets to make it happen.

Hope that helps a bit.

4uhataz

I have linear actuators on my trunk...what's the problem with that?

Problemo

Thats what Im on about ! I was wondering if anyone has any pics of said conversion if they could post 'em (or a link) here that'd be ace. I think I might get some custom fabrication work on the go. The closest example I can think of is off of an Audi A4, thats a nice mechanisim and has small enough struts to pull it off.

I just wonder if I'll have to cut the metal work around the seals to make it deeper to accomodate the struts.

Look pretty good when its done though I would imagine.

Thanks for your help chaps. I'll post anything else I find while Im looking.

rcurley55

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4uhataz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have linear actuators on my trunk...what's the problem with that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

a) expensive
b) heavy
c) hope you don't need to get into your trunk if you battery dies

That's the first three issues that came to mind...not saying you can't do it that way, I just don't see the need for a daily driver.

Oh, and I'd like to see how you did it....

rcurley55

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Problemo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what Im on about ! I was wondering if anyone has any pics of said conversion if they could post 'em (or a link) here that'd be ace. I think I might get some custom fabrication work on the go. The closest example I can think of is off of an Audi A4, thats a nice mechanisim and has small enough struts to pull it off.

I just wonder if I'll have to cut the metal work around the seals to make it deeper to accomodate the struts.

Look pretty good when its done though I would imagine.

Thanks for your help chaps. I'll post anything else I find while Im looking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wait, you and I are on two TOTALLY different pages. You want to integrate a new hinge into the car - something like an A4, Jetta, Passat, 3 series, etc.

My idea was to simply remove the current torsion bar setup, and retain the factory hinges. Then use the struts to assist the factory hinges in keeping the trunk lid in the open position.

One is fairly simple, the other is fairly difficult and more expensive.

I thought we were on the same page.

Problemo

Appologies, it's late and I missunderstood.

The system you mention I actually have in place at the moment. The system I am refering to is a bit more complex ! The reason being I am trying to eliminate the hinges them selves as they have already killed my works laptop once

I understand it'll be a lot of work, but hopefully I'm making some ground, I'll let you know how I get on. I don't understand why honda didn't do this in the 1st place, I guess it could be more expensive but maximises usable boot space does it not ?

rcurley55

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Problemo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Appologies, it's late and I missunderstood.

The system you mention I actually have in place at the moment. The system I am refering to is a bit more complex ! The reason being I am trying to eliminate the hinges them selves as they have already killed my works laptop once

I understand it'll be a lot of work, but hopefully I'm making some ground, I'll let you know how I get on. I don't understand why honda didn't do this in the 1st place, I guess it could be more expensive but maximises usable boot space does it not ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got a few questions:

1. How did you do it the first time around - I was planning on doing it, but got lazy.
2. How did the hinges kill a lap top!! Are you stuffing your trunk full of stuff or what!?!?

And yes, this method is far cheaper then any other hinge design.

Problemo

I ended up making some brackets, theres a FAQ if you do a search for the newer (02) Civic's which will help you a lot, it's not all that complex. Should take a couple of hours. I forget the exact method but I have definatly seen that faq.

As for the laptop, well, as much as I like making my cars look smart and drive that little bit faster as well as having some nice sounds in them, it's still a work horse, I do about 47,000km a year, which is quite a bit over here.

No rest for the wicked as they say !

I'll have a look for the FAQ when I get back from work.

4uhataz

They are not heavy at all. An a inch pump weighs about 3 lbs and I have 2 of them. They only cost about 100 each, so not that expensive. And you mount them to brackets with bolts so all you have to do is unscrew and you're in your trunk. Takes about 2 minutes. All you do is weld a bracket to the trunk floor, or preferably against the wheel well and then drill through the hinge put a hardened steel bolt through it with a locking nut and you're done.

Finest

I still don't know how you managed to damage your laptop from the trunk lid hinges? Is your trunk full? Do you force the trunk close when it's full?

(now that I think about it and picture it, I think I know what you're talking about)

My sub box, which is located on the right, inside part of the trunk...the hinge part swings down, so I managed to design my box with enough room to let the hinge come down without touching my box. So you want to remove these hinges?

You'll probably have to fabricate new hinges on the rear of the trunk lid that'll connect right under the rear window. This will be your pivot point, so make sure it clears the rear window and closes flush. Then fab two brackets on the sides for your struts. This won't be a walk in the park, I'll tell you that now...

Problemo

I knew it was a tight fit wiv me laptop in the boot but the jumping around cracked the casing and made a right mess, I never force the lid shut but there is always stuff underneath it.

You know you have a box made up any chances of seeing some pics ? I understand it might not be so easy to make but Im working on some plans in auto cad so hopefully someone will be able to fabricate the hinges.

Honda may be the kings of making smart engines for little money, but sometimes they don't do the most obvious of things, such as a boot lid that closes and doesnt take up all the damn space !

The boot lid opens well into the air so it should be interesting, I was thinking of buying a CF lid so I could make light weight hinges etc but I shall see how much room I have for heavy duty ones too.

Maybe one day I'll even get a faq on the go

Anyways, back to the drawing board, and me rattles ...

rcurley55

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4uhataz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are not heavy at all. An a inch pump weighs about 3 lbs and I have 2 of them. They only cost about 100 each, so not that expensive. And you mount them to brackets with bolts so all you have to do is unscrew and you're in your trunk. Takes about 2 minutes. All you do is weld a bracket to the trunk floor, or preferably against the wheel well and then drill through the hinge put a hardened steel bolt through it with a locking nut and you're done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now you have really confused me.

How are we using a 1" linear actuator to open and close your trunk lid? And how are you hiding this...sounds like you are just welding straight to the trunk floor?

If you have done it, throw up some pics...I'm always interested in what others are doing

rjr162

what i thought you ment was using the "gas shocks" like on screen doors, except the mini ones used in cars... which you could then just weld a bracket (or screw) onto a plate off of the rear deck, use a pin or bolt to fasten the end to the bracket and still allow it to move as needed, and attach the other end to the trunk lid using a similar mount. Then the gas arm would push the lid up, still be able to move in the arc motion required.. and hopefully work