cleansi

so i never had such a bad experience trying to keep the motor in time evry time i get the 2 cam gears lined up in TDC with the crank there is quite a bit of slack on the left side of the belt opposite of the waterpump/ tensioner . so when i go to tension it it moves a tooth..
has any one tried rotating the motor 4-6 times counter clock wise then tightning the tensioner any help would be appreciated

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Line everything up to TDC then tigthen down the tensioner. Turn the motor over 3-4 times counter clockwise to see if everything lines up at TDC again. Then loosen the tensioner and turn the motor counter clockwise 3 teeth and tighten down the tensioner to 40 ft. lbs.

Also belt installation order should start wtih the crank, tensioner, water pump, exhaust cam, then intake cam.

cleansi

thanks ive seen a bunch of other people say the same thing the only problem is when i rotate the crank the slack in the belt cuases it skip a tooth

cleansi

found my anwser after searching again and again




I do not understand why people are using coat hangers and such to tighten the timing belt tensioner. Do you all understand that it is possible to get the belt TOO tight? Do you also understand that the OEM tensioner spring is perfectly adequate at putting proper tension on the belt, when the proper belt tensioning procedure is followed?

Now I always replace the tensioner pulley and the spring whenever I change the timing belt. Also, make sure the belt is installed in the proper order. Crank sprocket -> tensioner pulley -> water pump -> exhaust cam -> intake cam. It is very important that you install the belt over the exhaust cam gear first, and then over the intake cam gear. When you do this, you're automatically going to pull tight on the belt from the crank sprocket up to the exhaust cam gear. If you put it over the exhaust cam gear last, you're going to end up with slack on that long side of the belt, which means you'll be 1-2 teeth out of time.

As for tensioning, make sure everything is lined up at TDC, install the belt, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt so that the spring pulls and applys tension to the belt, then snug down the tensioner bolt. Rotate the engine over a few times to verify that everything stays lined up each time the engine passes TDC on the #1 piston.

Once you have checked that it stays lined up, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt. Now this is important - while the tensioner pulley bolt is loose, turn the crank pulley so that the cam gears move past each other by about 3 teeth. Finally, tighten the tensioner pulley bolt and torque to spec.

What you're doing by turning the belt with the tensioner loose is the belt tightens and pulls against that spring. This puts the proper tension on the belt, and then the tensioner bolt keeps the tensioner in place. At this point the spring doesn't do anything. It's really not that hard to do, and IMHO it easier doing it this way than guessing what the correct tension is by using a coat hanger or some other such make-shift tool.


By mouab18c1,,,,, thanks

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

That's basically what I said!