amoeba2315

I will write what I know for starters and if more detailed info is needed I will just have my brother post what he knows since this is his car.

The car has about 125K miles on it and one day it slowly died on me as I was driving and hasn't worked since. We had the battery, starter motor and alternator tested and they came back good. We replaced the fuel filter in case it was clogged and maybe that's why it wasn't starting but that was good and even the pump was good too. Oh and we replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires and we still have the same issue, the car cranks but won't start. We tried getting codes but nothing comes up. My brother tried the spark test where he tries to crank it while i hold a screwdriver near the spark plugs and later the distributor cap when got no spark from the spark plugs.

So i wasn't sure what to try next. We were going to try taking off the distributor cap but the screw is stripped so before we were going to attempt that, we weren't sure if there could be any other tests or things to try. Someone told us it could be the coil but how does one test that? I mean I doubt its a fuse or something but then again I am no mechanic. My brother knows a little more then me but we only know what we know of cars from watching our dad who was a certified mechanic when we were kids but he passed away a couple years ago So if anyone has any advice on some things to check or test on why we still don't have spark, would be gratefully appreciated. I mean should we try taking off the distributor cap first and also checking the rotor underneath? Again we were hesitant because of that stripped bolt head but if that's the culprit you guys would check first, then we will. Thank you

fcm

No spark would indicate either a bad coil or a bad ICM.

Your discription, "one day it slowly died on me as I was driving and hasn't worked since" would indicate the coil, ICMs tend to just quit, nothing slow about it.

There are simple tests you can do with a multimeter, search here or Googleit. 94

BTW ignore the IM as I found this tread. 94

amoeba2315

I am trying to google it and look on here with words like testing mulimeter icm, or coil. But i don't know what setting for example to put the meter on, or where all of these are at? I would think they would be near/in the distributor but not sure. Also what readings would be ideal, and where should I place the - and + wires from the meter on the car. I mean do you know of any good threads that explain almost like a guide? Lol I never even heard of a dizzy before I came here so that was a bit confusing. Also I read on a couple threads about grounding as well. Is that another thing I would try if these ones don't work.

Also what setting would I put my multimeter on? I have a gb gdt-205 meter, which is close to this model http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...F8&me=&seller= Or does it not matter what type of meter I have

TegB20B

same thing just happened to me 3 days ago. just driving and it shut off. ive tried distributors out of my friends car and a new one (nothing) checked my grounds and swapped working ecu`s into my car and i still have no spark and my fuel pump wont wine. i changed my main relay which does have something to do with fuel pump and spark, still nothing. ive checked all the fuses n theres nothing wrong with my cams, gears belt, that would mess up my distributor, power to everything and no check engine...i still have to test every fuse connection with an ohm meter, you could always try that out, because even if the fuse looks good the wiring behind it might not be, ill keep you posted. USUALLY ITS THE MAIN RELAY VERY VERY COMMON TO STOP FUEL PUMP AND SPARK!! (not in my case unfortunately)

TegB20B

one other thing, main relay is easy to check, on your 94 it will be under your steering coulmn it will be a little hard to find because its tucked away, look for a decent size grey box bolted under there. unplug, and you can pull the chip out of the bottom, look for black on the chip or anything unusual.

fcm

Just because a fuse looks good does not mean it is good, it should be tested under load, use a 12V test light, touch the probe to both test tips on the fuse.

A common problem with ATO/ATC and mini ATC fuses is the fillement will break at one of the legs and will look good, some will even test good with a meter, but will "open" under load, because a 12V test light is a load it works much better for testing fuses.

If your fuel pump is not priming, "my fuel pump wont wine" you need to check for power at the PGM-FI Main Relay, there are 3 of them...

1- yellow/white, fuse 31-15A, [hot at all times] engine bay fuse box.
2- blue/white, fuse 18-7.5A, [hot during cranking to start only] under dash fuse box.
3- black/yellow fuse 24-15A(20A GS-R), [hot in run and start] in SRS fuse block.

You should also confirm you have power, [hot in run and start] at the distributor assembly plug, black/yellow.

The PGM-FI Main Relay is located just above the hood release on 94-up Integras. 94

okcdc2

OK. So 2 days ago i was driving away from a stop light and my 94 ls sputtered and rolled to a quick stop. Since then i have changed the coil, icm, all plugs and wires, main relay, complete fuel change and checked all fuses. I have no spark from dizzy. Other than changing that, what does anyone suggest. thank you.

Hidenplanvew

get a helms or google free honda helms manual... Theres a few places that show up

follow the flow chart

okcdc2

I've got the integer manual thats about the size of a phone book so ill try that. thanks. is there anyway to test a dizzy? other than putting it in another car?

fcm

You can test the coil and ICM, also check the connections to the coil and ICM. 94

okcdc2

Well i finally broke down and just bought the whole dizzy. I guess it was the pickup inside rather than all the other parts i replaced. But on a kinda good note, I've got a 94 shell with a 97 engine and wiring harness. Kinda confusing when i go to get parts though. Thanks for the help guys!

fcm

You need to know how to use a meter properly before testing anything... http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid...llllll0&aqi=g4

Then pull and test the coil... http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid...egra+ign.+coil

Then pull and test the ICM... http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid...94+integra+ICM


Before you pull anything apart, confirm there is power, [12V+] going to the distributor assembly, [black/yellow lead] when ign. switch is on AND when cranking to start.

You will also need to confirm that ECU/ECM has power, [12V+] on both IPG1 and IPG2, [they are the only two (2) yellow/black leads going to the ECU/ECM] also with ign. swith on and when cranking to start 94

fcm

The PGM-FI Main Relay on a 94 Integra is not under the steering column, [that's on a G2 Integra] on a 94, [G3 Integra] it is just above the hood release "handel", pretty much the same as a 92-03 Civic/CRX... http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html 94