adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you will have some pretty good traction issues if you are hitting full boost at like 3500 rpms. as it sits now, if i just go from like 20mph in 2nd gear and floor it, by 5k my tires are peeling very loudly, and i continue to sping w/o moving foward much. if im racing, i cant bang 2nd or 3rd really, and have to ease into full throttle or i will just spin and kinda slide sideways. this is on street tires by the way</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't agree with that. It's probably due to unlinear torque curves. The bigger the slope on the torque curve the greater the problem. I have actually solved peoples 250whp traction issue by making the boost transition torque smoother. A lot of people just run a standard retard and make sure in boost they are at or uner 12 AFR. This makes for sudden power at later RPM hence traction issues. I cured the problem by retarding the timing starting at 3 or 4PSI and keeping 12.5-13 AFR until 3-4 PSI. Just this eliminated most traction issues. Traction issues start with tires obviously, but can be help with smoother torque curves until peak torque is reached. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it can help a lot of people that say they have traction problems with under ~250whp in second gear on standard street tires (aka not DR's). under 250whp you should not have 2nd gear problems on standard street tires.

S@nt0s

what was your timing at full boost? what is your dizzy timing at as well?
higher considering upping my lbs......

adseguy

at peak torque I'm at 13 degrees and 14 degrees at peak HP and the rest of the 16 PSI column. I actually made 300whp at 13 PSI and that would be perfect if I wasn't on stock pistons. The cylinder pressure at that PSI and timing are not good for the longetivity of any engine. Stock cylinders are the weak sause in my system so I have to work with that. Like I said cylinder pressures are what kill engines (aside from detonation). So unlike most Dumbass HT members think, you know the ones who immeditely say "OVER 9PSI IS DANG3ROUS!!1!!", running more boost is better for stock internals and will help me keep my 303whp and 260trq for a long time . On non stock internals or under 250whp I always tune for max power and then take a degree or 2 out to keep it safe.

S@nt0s

how long have you been running oyur car? daily drivin? that was on 91oct correct?

Touge Tuning

adseguy - i have a few questions for you but ill put that in pm. Your setup is really nice and your vid is one of the nicer ones ive seen around the net, shows you take pride in everything you do.

King Tut33

Great things in this post. I can't wait to have my parts assembled soon.

JDMs1eeper

I'm running an STR intake manifold on my current setup.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snoflake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
back on track...
what Mani's is everyone running?????? i know JG makes the BIG DICK mani for LS's and Blox/skunk2 have one for LS who else????
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Its in an 92 Honda Civic HB, 2350 w/ me in it.

FMU 12:1 , Missing link, Walbro255
98' LS swap, fresh rebuild.
Stock Head
ARP Head Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
SRP 9.5:1 pistons
Eagle Rods
N1 CTR Pulley

InlinePro cast Stainless steel t-Mani
T04E , stage5 wheel, 60trim, 70a/r turbine, .50 compressor a/r, 3" vband
Open 3" Downpipe
2.5" revhard Charge pipes
Johnny Racecar 6" FMIC
greddy TypeS BOV
37mm wastegate

Dyno of above setup at <U>8.5psi</U>:
242.93 whp
195.57 ftlbs

Track times for above setup:

2.0 60ft 13.0 @ 108 - 7psi , street tires
1.8 60ft 12.6 @ 107 - 7psi , 20" MT slicks
1.7 60ft 12.4 @ 108 - 9psi , 22 x 8 x 13 M&H slicks (missed 5th, costed)


Updated Setup includes:

Full 3" kteller exhaust
RC440cc
Uberdata ECU , tuned by SOHC_Mshue (also w/ 7,500 revlemit)
STR intake manifold (Carbon Fiber logo )
31" x 11.75" x 3" OBX-r FMIC

only track time was f'd up because i had to run on cold slicks on 16psi in them...

2.1 60ft 13.0 @ 116 - 14.5psi , 22 x 8 x 13 M&H slicks (no traction until 4th...)


Pic of car:

Most Resent w/ yellow paint and large FMIC


Older pics w/ charcoal paint and 6" johnnyRaceCar FMIC (black)










Modified by JDM S1eeper at 7:09 PM 7/29/2005


Modified by JDM S1eeper at 8:10 PM 7/29/2005


Modified by JDM S1eeper at 1:08 AM 7/31/2005

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scarlemthug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Maybe i should look at the 60 Trim T3/T4 with a .48a/r, wouldnt that flow a little more cfm and still have a very low spool time?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

let your WG read from the brake booster and you shouldnt have no pressure drop problems.

Been boosted on "this" setup for 7 months now.

BTW, my car is deff. in the 11's and i dont have traction issues as long as i granny shift

hybridsol

I'll bite on this post, my setup is a little different than most:

B18B 45K Stock everything
Inline pro exhaust manifold
GT3071 w/ 0.48 exhaust housing
440cc injectors
FMIC (who doesn't?)
Walboro fuel pump
ITR fuel regulator
USDM ITR trans
Alum flywheel
Upgraded axles
Hondata stage 4 (older version)
E-boost 2 boost controller
Full 3" exhaust, Thermal cat, Magaflow muffler
Dump tube
Tail 38mm WG
Type R radiator/ Fal fans

Runs 10 psi on the way to work, everyday
No dyno 's or track time- had steering linkage problems!

Pic w/MBC (old)

dannydos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock Block 95 Integra SE B18b
Neukin ramhorn style manifold
Garrett T3/T04e .63/.60 57 trim (360 thrust bearings)
2.5" charge piping
JRC IC
TurboXS RFL BOV
3" DP and Exhaust (no cat only resonated)
3 bar map sensor
Uberdata v1.70 tuned by me on the dyno
PLX m-300 wideband

303whp 260trq at 16PSI - many may say "why such high PSI?" and I answer "That's because I don't want my motor to blow on my stock internals " and if you don't understand why running less timing and more PSI is better, then search .

vid here &gt; http://web.umr.edu/~amsrh7/car/adseguy's_turboteg.mpg</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was thinking of buying a 3 bar map sensor to increase the boost.....im currently running 9psi ( spiking at 10 psi ) and when i saw your thread about your turbo setup with a stock b18b and running it at 16 psi it made me want to up the boost...any tips on the 3 bar you can share...i haven't talk to my turner yet....he uses crome...just looking for some info from you..thanks

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snoflake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long have you been running oyur car? daily drivin? that was on 91oct correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My car has been boosted for around 15k miles now and about 2k more on 300whp. Yes it's daily driven, but I don't hit all 16 PSI everyday. How you drive it is also a major factor in longetivity! I do hit redline once or twice everyday, but only at 12PSI (~240whp). When I have to race or show someone up though the wheel spinning 16PSI is switching on by my shift **** button. 93octane....yummy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dannydos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i was thinking of buying a 3 bar map sensor to increase the boost.....im currently running 9psi ( spiking at 10 psi ) and when i saw your thread about your turbo setup with a stock b18b and running it at 16 psi it made me want to up the boost...any tips on the 3 bar you can share...i haven't talk to my turner yet....he uses crome...just looking for some info from you..thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

you can run more then 10PSI on stock map sensor. I haven't personally done this before or tuned anyone's that had to, but people have gone up to 12PSI on them. What you do is tune the last column (not always the last because the ECU may read teh second to last for voltages reasons I don't want to get into...just check with datalogging) to be conservative so that at 12PSI it's ideal. So when it actually hits 10PSI it's a little rich and timing is a little too retarded, but once it hits 12PSI it's perfect...get it? . 3bar works with everything now a days. I even made a post on the Uberdata forums on how to re-scale the maps to be more accurate

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can't agree with that. It's probably due to unlinear torque curves. The bigger the slope on the torque curve the greater the problem. I have actually solved peoples 250whp traction issue by making the boost transition torque smoother. A lot of people just run a standard retard and make sure in boost they are at or uner 12 AFR. This makes for sudden power at later RPM hence traction issues. I cured the problem by retarding the timing starting at 3 or 4PSI and keeping 12.5-13 AFR until 3-4 PSI. Just this eliminated most traction issues. Traction issues start with tires obviously, but can be help with smoother torque curves until peak torque is reached. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it can help a lot of people that say they have traction problems with under ~250whp in second gear on standard street tires (aka not DR's). under 250whp you should not have 2nd gear problems on standard street tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>


my torque hits 200 at 4900rpms and sits flat on 200 until about 6300 where it slowly drops to like 190. at 3.45 psi im running 25.75*. i should try tinkering with it more one day. i should also get some real tires, not the discount kumho's. i wonder if the fact im running a gsr tranny has something to do with it too???...

Raunch

My friend's:

<U>Stock</U> B18B1

ARP head studs
Cosmetic head gasket
Tyrus 6” Intercooler
SC34 turbo .60 A/R - .63 Exhaust
Tial 38 mm
Rev hard manifold
Competition Racing Stage IV Clutch
Competition racing 12.5 lbs flywheel
RC 550 cc Injectors
AutoMeter Boost and Air&Fuel gauge
Greddy Type RS BOV
Walbro 255 fuel pump
AEM FPR
B&M Fuel gauge



Tunned with Neptune by Jeff (Boosted-Hybrid)

Tuning at 17lbs 94 octane:



The car






Best time (I cannot find the time slip at this moment): 12.6 1/4 mile with slicks.




Modified by Raunch at 11:35 PM 7/29/2005

Raunch

Mines:

<U>Stock</U> B18B1

BMC turbo manifold
T3 turbo
450 DSM injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
B&M FPR with gauge
Tial 38 mm
3" custome downpipe
Clutch Masters stage IV clutch with stock tranny
GSR flywheel lighten to 12 lbs
Tyrus 6” Intercooler

Street tuned with TurboEdit
running 14 psi for the last 9 months and still running strong

The car:

st00pid

My girlfriend's old setup was really simple..

99 B18B all stock
T3/T04B unknown wheels .48 exhaust
Rev Hard manifold
Tial 40mm wastegate
440cc injectors (maxxed out)
Hondata 4b then S100 or S200 (depending on if a customer needed the S100)
293whp 272tq @ 20psi for 2 years with a best pass of 11.8 @ 119mph on boost only on 93 octane


added a 50shot wet on C16 and changed nothing else and ran 11.6 @ 123

sold the motor to a guy who sprayed a 100 shot on it for 60months.


I built a friend's LS-T and it was much more impressive

JG pro head built in 96
JG1001 cams
stock B18B short block
rev hard mani
Tial 40mm
T3/To4b 50trim .48 exhaust
STR intake mani
DFI Gen 6

305@10psi
380@16psi
all on 93 octane.

Ive tuned lots of stock LS engines to 275-300whp most of which lasted a long time with some serious abuse.

IntegraBoy04

Hmmm....alot of you guys are making good power on 10psi. I'm making 236. And I'm not seeing full boost till almost 6500. I have:
One-Fab mani
Garrett t3/t04e 57 trim .63 a/r
3" open downpipe
RC 550s
Neptune tuned by St00pid
2.5" charge piping
JRC 6" cooler
Greddy Type RS
Tial 38mm

EARLdaSQUIRREL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraBoy04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm....alot of you guys are making good power on 10psi. I'm making 236. And I'm not seeing full boost till almost 6500. I have:
One-Fab mani
Garrett t3/t04e 57 trim .63 a/r
3" open downpipe
RC 550s
Neptune tuned by St00pid
2.5" charge piping
JRC 6" cooler
Greddy Type RS
Tial 38mm</TD></TR></TABLE>

something isnt right there....

IntegraBoy04

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coptzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

something isnt right there....</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are telling me. But I'm goin back to see Jason so we can work it out.

pdiggitydogg

impressive stuff guys
makes me glad Im ditching the sohc vtec for my lst build

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">impressive stuff guys
makes me glad Im ditching the sohc vtec for my lst build</TD></TR></TABLE>

my boosted z6 was definatly fun, but the ls-t is a whole different feeling

A.E Motoring

iTrader: (1)

everyone has some good numbers...hopefully i will be joining you guys in the near future...already have my turbo...just piecing it together now

DENCIO

Stock B18a
love fab shorty
garrett t3/t04e .63 .60 57trim
tial 38mm
dsm 450s
b&m fpr
cca 31x8x2.75 fmic
homemade 2.5 dp and charge pipes
2.5 mccord e-cut out
7 years old ACT clutch
walbro 255lph
plx m300
Turboedit
208whp 197tq @8 psi(7 months ago)street tuned...currently boosting 12psi..

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by st00pid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
305@10psi
380@16psi
all on 93 octane.

Ive tuned lots of stock LS engines to 275-300whp most of which lasted a long time with some serious abuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my boosted z6 was definatly fun, but the ls-t is a whole different feeling </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true

Touge Tuning

Do you guys think $850CDN is a good deal for a used SC50 and used TiAL 38mm wastegate (20K km's).

I am very impressed by the torque numbers all of you guys have put down, im really hoping i can get close to 270/280tq on the stock b18b1. I guess ill be able to put down some nice numbers too once its all said and done and i have 94 octane at the gas stations so im even luckier i guess?:D