turbonetics3597

i havent heard of any turbos using a ceramic compressor wheel only ceramic bearings, not that turbo and it would not be caused by the amount of boost it would be caused by exhaust gas temperature

91b18a1ls

The stock turbo off the rb20 (the one I was originally going to use) has a ceramic turbine wheel, not compressor wheel. You're right though, makes sense that exhaust gas temp would be what damages those wheels and not boost pressure sense the turbine wheel never sees boost pressure. Doesn't matter though cause I got a brand new garrett 50 trim to use =]

91b18a1ls

I've been busy trying to lap my valves, which for those of you who have never done it. It's a major pain in the ***. Very time consuming and it wears your hands raw. Maybe I'm just weak I don't know, but my hands and arms are extremely sore from doing it...and I'm not even done yet =[

This is the valve lapping tool and compound I've been using. The compound doesn't say what grit it is, but it seems very coarse to me.


The little suction cup kept coming off every 2 seconds so I took a piece of double sided poster tape and used that to hold it on there which worked really well...sometimes


Compound applied to the valve


Tool attached to the valve


This is how the valve looks after being lapped. The valve on the left has been lapped, the one on the right has not


I tried going to Napa to find some fine grit compound, but all they had was 150 grit which is way to rough. I probably don't need to go over them again with something like 1000-1200 grit, but I want to make sure these things are completely smooth so as soon as I can find some of that compound I'm going to do this all over again....joy....not =[ Some people have mentioned using a drill to lap them, but that seems sketchy to me so for now I'll keep rubbing my hands raw

91b18a1ls

So today after going around to several auto stores I finally found a place that had some fine grit compound....O'Rileys of all places lol. My friend came over to help me out and we finally got it all done. All the valves are lapped and ready to go. Next step is to do a final cleaning on the head inside and out, put the valves and springs back in, then go get it milled =]

91b18a1ls

Finally got the head put back together. All the valves have been thoroughly cleaned, lapped, new valve seals installed and it's ready to go off to the machine shop to be milled as soon as I can afford it. Unfortunately I cracked my tooth last night and I have to get a crown put on which is $853 because I don't have insurance =[ I was hoping to have the car running by the end of February, but doubt that now. Oh well, just another set back

91b18a1ls

Went ahead and made a new gauge holder with 3 holes instead of two. I figure I might as well have all three gauges in the same spot so I wont have to look left and right of the steering wheel. Just need to sand it down and clear it, and I'm FINALLY going to get my boost gauge tomorrow =]

91b18a1ls

Finally got my boost gauge =]





An idea of how they'll sit when installed in the car. I still need to sand and clear that carbon fiber though. That's next

yungkhmer

You sure that wideband is going to be sufficient? I'd get an AEM if I were you.......

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

not exactly, EGTs have nothing to do with ceramic turbine wheel failures. they have shaft speed limits. more boost equals the shaft spinning faster. on the rb20 turbos 15psi is the safe working limit for the shaft. any more boost means spinning the wheel past it's safe working limit, which normally results in the turbine wheel separating from the shaft.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

that wideband is fine. I ran an aem gauge type uego and hated it. their sensor has a built in resistor to calibrate it. this means as the sensor ages and wears you have no way to recalibrate the sensor and air fuel readings become increasingly inaccurate.

we've used pretty much every wideband and I have to say I prefer the ngk afx unit over others.

91b18a1ls

This is true. I didn't think about the speed part of it. What's funny is my buddy who had the turbo originally pushed it to 18-19 psi and it still held together. Just goes to show that Garrett makes some quality stuff...or at least they used to
O_o...? That Autometer is a $200+ gauge, there is nothing insufficient about it. I bought it used with a fried harness, sent it in to Autometer and they warrantied it out and sent me a new unit free of charge. I love their products and their customer service. I've messed with the aem gauge before and although it seems like the majority of people use that one, I didn't like it. It felt very cheaply made, really light weight, and just felt more like a toy then a solid professional gauge. I'll switch to an Autometer oil pressure gauge some day. I stand by their products

Got the new gauge holder all sanded down and cleared the other night



Then move don to trying to figure out how to get it installed in the dash panel. I used rtv on the old one so I knew good old hondabond would work just as well if not better which it did



Got it in there and this is how it looks





The only thing that bothers me is the direction of the carbon pattern is opposite of the other pieces. It's a minor thing and it's gonna drive me nuts, but I'm not about to make another one so I'll live with it. I just need to replace that driver side vent and it's ready to go back in. I might just make another piece and block off the driver vent. I still have function of the air and temp of it, but I'll just have it on my feet so it's not blowing air on the back of the gauges.

ferio-ichi3

Good job on the carbon pattern. That whole dash set up is ****

91b18a1ls

Thanks.

Went ahead and made a piece for the driver side vent

Sleeper EM1

Gonna leave them as Blanks/Deletes or you have more things being put in?
Clean work.

subie92

lookin good so far keep it up

91b18a1ls

Just going to leave them as blanks for now. Don't have any other intentions for them right now
Thanks

Went ahead and put the ARP Head Studs in today. They didn't need to go in yet, but figured it wont hurt anything. One step closer







This is how it sits =[ Everything is pretty much done and taken care of until I get some money. I need to get the oil pump seals, water pump gasket, thermostat gasket, and get the head milled. Hopefully I can get all that done and running before the end of the month, but not holding my breath on that

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

don't even get me started on the quality (or lack thereof) of the UEGO gauge (not the multi feature one but same thing) the bezel is so thin and fragile it's like aluminum foil, one good tap getting in or out of the car or when installing it and the bezel immediately dents

91b18a1ls

Got the gauges installed and my friend Jose wired them up for me. I think it came out looking badass >=]



This is how they look when lit. Shitty photo though

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Very clean looking.... Very few DA projects left.. keep it going.

cfiiman

Wow, awesome thread, can't wait to see the rest as you progress.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I'm loving the dash

well thought out, superbly executed, and looks amazing... clean yet functional

plus those blanks give you future room to add a gauge, it would be an EGT gauge if it were me. they also give you room for switches, like one for launch control, 2 step limiter, water/meth system arming switch, map switching, boost map switching or a **** to increase/decrease boost pressure (if your EMS supports these features) as well as any accessory or ecu input you add down the road

also for any add-on wiring it allows you to mount circuit breakers where they can easily be reset, negating the need to add an extra fuse box.

all in all a very clean, well planned, and well executed build... even more impressive since it is your first turbo build and 99% of the people that do it cut corners and use subpar components (read: Chinese/ebay ****) so it looks like someone actually took our advice about how to properly execute their first turbo build lol

I don't know if I said this earlier in your thread but thank you for knowing and remembering to lap the valves. I've seen too many build threads to count where people just drop the valves in straight from the box and then have no idea why they have poor compression, cylinder sealing and have poor leakdown test results lol

so I applaud your effort to do it the right way the first time and for taking your time doing so

I love this thread as an example to those new to building a turbo Honda that I might just add it to the Forced Induction FAQ sticky

keep up the hard work, I always enjoy watching your progress because it truly is refreshing to watch someone do it the right way

91b18a1ls

Thanks, that's true. I really don't see many 2nd gen integra builds these days
Thanks, me either lol Not much going on right now cause I'm borke
Wow...thanks man I really appreciate that. I've tried my best to do things the correct way with the limited budget that I'm on, and yeah at first I was going to go with the cheap ebay stuff and an oem turbo, but things didn't work out with that and I'm glad I was able to get a hold of some better parts that will soot my build better. All in all I'm happy with the progress I've made even though it's been slow, and I'm happy that my db1 (which is my daily) is still working properly and I'm not having to spend money on it...knock on wood.

As for the lapping thing, yes I took peoples advice and went ahead and did that, and learned to do it myself which I wasn't going to do at first. I'm glad I did though because now I have the knowledge of how to do it properly. I still haven't taken my head to the machine shop, but I'm really hoping they can mill it without having to pull the valves back out...

You mentioned the possibility of me adding an egt gauge at some point? That's an exhaust gas temp correct? What exactly would that be used for? I get it's for monitoring the temp of the gas, but why is that something that needs to be focused on?

Something that everyone always told me was that you need money to build a car, but that's not all it's about. I wouldn't even be where I'm at right now if it weren't for all my friends helping me out, everyone online like you guys giving me advice and pointing me in the right direction when I'm struggling to figure things out. I really appreciate all the help I get and I hope at some point I can take what I've learned and what I continue to learn and pass it on to someone else down the road.

Anyway, nothing to really update on the build. I've been really busy this past week doing my photography side of things for our local forum here in Austin (Thirdhonk.com) and just haven't had a chance to get back to my car. I'll let everyone know though as soon as something else happens.

You can check out these photos and video I did from Cars & Coffee this past weekend. There are some really nice cars in here so just something to look at and watch when you're bored at work lol

(photos)
http://www.thirdhonk.com/community/i...ary-2014.5026/

(video)
http://www.thirdhonk.com/community/i...ry-video.5033/

91b18a1ls

Figured out a way to make my stock ac fan fit in between the radiator and the intercooler. Wired it up backwards as well so it'll work since it's flipped around from how it originally sat. I just need to make some mounts/brackets for it and that's one more thing to cross off the list...oh and clean it as well




Just another random shot of the gauges, just cause I love how they look lol

91b18a1ls

Got the brackets for the fan made today

Left side bracket


Right/Top side bracket


The fan is mounted in there and doesn't move at all =] I also put some electrical tape around the edge of the fan shroud so that the steel and aluminum don't touch each other. I'll clean the intercooler up in the future when everything is ready to go

91b18a1ls

So today I went to Acura and bought two new seals for the oil pump. I got the seals and pump installed, kind of nervous about the oil seal that goes around the crank though. It was such a tight fit, I'm worried the little spring on the seal might of come off. I wont know if that's the case until the car is running again. If that seal leaks then I'll know that's what happened. I really really hope it's ok though cause I don't want to remove everything to get to that seal again.

The thermostat and water pump gasket will be at the dealer tomorrow so I'll go and get that and get those installed as well. After that, it's time to get take the head to the machine shop. I know I've been saying that for awhile now, but things have kept coming up and money has just been tight, but I'm finally ready for it. I WILL have this car running before March is over