BROOD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zero2Sixty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much are these setups?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alot.......
I'm getting all my TIG welding done for free by a friend. So Figure the following:
Sump kit $60, pump $300, fpr $130, filter $$90, pre-filter $90, fuel rail $125, etc....
Those are not even the expensive part...the hose and fittings are the worst cost of it all. I probably have just as much in hose and fittings as the rest of it.

Turbo EG6

Now when you guys are installing the sumps, are you cutting a piece out the size of the sump? If so, and you are having trouble with fuel flowing forward when you stop, you should try just drilling holes and welding the sump on instead of cutting one big piece out, that way it would act as a baffle. I hope I made sense . I know it works on Mustangs and such.

BROOD

Five 2.5" holes are drilled in the floor of the tank. That acts as the baffle, fuel slosh is not an issue. With other kits....I do not know.

**Now I wish I would have taken a pic of the holes I cut in the tank**


Modified by SLPR at 5:44 PM 7/6/2003

Turbo EG6

Thats what I was talking about

Full-Race Geoff

well ill just spill the beans since if someone is gonna copy me theres really nothing i can do, its a billet gas tank plate that has a fuel pickup sock from a really really big engine. The pickup sock feeds a -10 which you just run to your fuel pump. This means no sump issues, and you dont have to pull the tank.

If anyone is concerned about the pump dying an early life froma gravity feed, my pump has 22 thousand miles setup like this and no problems yet.

Full-Race Geoff

thats one hell of a job!! good work sir!

BROOD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FFgeoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats one hell of a job!! good work sir!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man, I'm tring my best....with what time and resources I have available.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FFgeoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> a billet gas tank plate that has a fuel pickup sock from a really really big engine. The pickup sock feeds a -10 which you just run to your fuel pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you are thinking of a fuel pickup tube in the original fuel pump location (top of fuel tank)??? I was going to do a similar thing for my original plan. Use the plasma cut steel cover and weld the original fuel pump brace to it. From there I was using a 10AN bulkhead fitting and 10AN to 5/8 tube adapter to a length of 5/8 AL tubing with a filter sock mounted to the end.
After playing around with getting the right filter sock and connecting it securely to the 5/8 tube, I decided to go with the sump instead. This way running less than 1/4 tank of gas is not as risky.
Plus I was having troubles routing the 10AN feed line (to the pump) and the 6AN (return line) around under that acess cover. Things where getting really tight/cramped fast.

I still think it is a good idea for those who don't want all the trouble of installing a fuel sump though.

lazerus

what about adding in a surge tank ?

Orange Goats

those setups look good, but they hang kinda low..

Hispeed

Since the pump is supposed to be gravity fed this was randy's solution to my gurgling starving fuel pump:


The return line that emptys right into the stock baffled bowl esentially always keeping fuel in the bowl


Before I had the pump feeding from the top similar to the stock setup but you had to keep almost 1/2 tank to keep the pump from starving and yet it was still very loud.. less than 1/4 and you were risking serious leaning out issues. The way it is now the car runs perfectly fine on near empty just like a stock car. Incase the pick isn't clear enough... Its a 1/2" steel tube comming in from the outside of the tank running along the floor and into the bottom of the stock baffled bowl. The -8 an fitting is welded on to the tube and the tube is welded to the tank. The return line is a 3/8" tube and emptys right in front of the feed tube. Copycats' or for any questions email randy @ attituderacing.com

Full-Race Geoff

i run my car to about empty, pretty regularly. The pickup sock acts as a reservoir and very very rarely makes the pump "gurgle". Based on the fuel pressure gauge, leaning out is not an issue.

i dont follow this

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This way running less than 1/4 tank of gas is not as risky.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i will try to get some pics of the setup i built then. It seemd easy enough, and i just used the factory feed as the new return line.

BROOD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good idea, this set-up looks very interesting. It still requires welding to the tank but alot less complicated than the sump.

Geoff, I was worried about using the siphon feed from the oem location (top cover of tank) with less than a 1/4 full tank. Even though there is a baffle tank I would still be worried of uncovering the fuel pick-up/sock under hard cornering, braking, or acceleration. It may not be an issue as I thought though?

Full-Race Geoff

even if the sock does get uncovered, it doesnt become as much of an issue as you may think, simply becuase the uncovering of the sock doesnt do anything except uncover it. The sock works by filling up with fuel, and it actually acts as a reservoir, until the point where it is empty. they are pretty cool in that respect. They also act as a pre-pump filter.

Bnjmn

Any suggestions on what vehicle to get the pick-up sock from? And why not combine the two designs and put a sock on the end of the 1/2" tube that goes into the stock baffled bowl?

BROOD

FFgeoff, I understand now. I guess I never realized that filter socks "hold" a quantity of fuel. It makes sense though. I still had issue with getting the oem Honda sock attached to the 5/8 (10AN) siphon tube. If I would have know what application used a sock that would fit over the 5/8 tube, I would have stuck to the original plan. Cool, thanks for the info

RenoRacing

i follow. I never thought about how much fuel the filter sock holds but on our cars the little tiny bag we got holds quite a bit of fuel as you can tell when you pull your stock fuel pump out, it keeps leaking and leaking. I imagine if you had a bag that was about 4"x4" it would hold enough fuel to handle a pretty long and hard turn (maybe 5-8 seconds max) nomatter how much fuel was in the tank. Acting for those few seconds as it's own fuel cell. I think about 6 or 8 ounces in the sock would be more than enough for turning and hard braking or downhill.

hondahvn

the only disadvantage to the pictured sumps is they are lower than the pump. the sump tony built for me is just as deep as these but we set it into the tank about 2 inches and left a wall toward the front of the tank . also my pump is lower than the sump. ground clearance is not an issue unless the car is full of people lets face these are drag cars we are talking about for the most part not dune buggys. my pump has a big ugly quarter inch steel bash plate built around it (it does work becasuse i have used it) to protect it. since it is lower than the sump it also protects th sump as well(i have bottomed out the bash plate but not the sump or the pump ). when i stop suddenly i do occasionally hear the pump run dry but only for a couple of seconds and thats if im below a quarter tank. in my opinion its certainly not enough to fuss over. ive definatly never had my car stall. ill try to get some pics of the pump location and post them.

DirtyLude

Well, on to seperate surge tanks.

You can build a seperate surge tank without the need to weld your gas tank.

Here's the surge tank diagram for my CRX.



#6 is a low pressure carb pump. You can get the Holley Reds or Blues for dirt cheap from ebay.

#3 is the tank itself with low pressure feed and return on the top, High pressure return on the top, and high pressure feed on the bottom. I'm using a .6 litre alluminum camp fuel bottle with barb fittings brazed on to it.

The entire system is low pressure (4psi) except for the short hose that runs to the fuel rail from the high pressure pump (bright red). You can use simple barb fittings for all these lines and use good fittings and braided line just for the short hose to the rail. You can mount the tank and the pump on the lower back firewall with the high pressure pump lower than the tank. Of course with the size of the Aeromotive you might have to be creative with space.

Obviously the disadvantage to this setup is the added complexity.

Bnjmn

Here is a link with pics to a surge tank setup-

http://toyotaperformance.com/surge_tank.htm

Lots of +'s with this setup...

Ben