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You have a non oem oil pump. Obviously it's not working right if you say everything else is in spec. I'd start there
Alright everything is taken apart and back together and I have oil pressure now. There was some RTV on the oil pickup, the ebay oil pump gears were scored, so the OEM pump is in there now, new bearings as well. The pressure never dips below 10-12 now, even when hot at idle(before it would dip to 1 or 2 psi)
The guy who built my engine says he thinks the throttle body is not good, he said the idle dips sometimes and the oil pressure/rpms drops a bit, lights flicker, etc he said a gentle touch of the throttle plate fixes it.
I'm gonna replace the throttle body so I'm wondering if I should go bigger, or just put another stock one on there(60mm?) It's a b18b and I'm shooting for 325-350 for a few months, and then probably 400 after that.
Did you simply check the fine idle screw, and make sure that the bracket cable is a bit more taunt? Stock seems to be your friend here, so, honestly, I'd stick with that.
Did you simply check the fine idle screw, and make sure that the bracket cable is a bit more taunt? Stock seems to be your friend here, so, honestly, I'd stick with that.
I've checked the cable, but I honestly have no idea what the fine idle screw does(guessing from the name is adjusts the idle air flow..?) or how to check it. I did a Google search but have not found anything too helpful yet, but I will continue to look.
I've checked the cable, but I honestly have no idea what the fine idle screw does(guessing from the name is adjusts the idle air flow..?) or how to check it. I did a Google search but have not found anything too helpful yet, but I will continue to look.
That's basic mechanics. Google tells a lot, but not all. The fine idle screw adjusts just that; enough vacuum to keep the car from stalling and to stabilize idle condition, in addition to using a throttle stop.
Alright I will see if adjusting it makes a difference, thanks for that idea.
I got everything from go autoworks, I decided to mock everything up since I don't have the car right now. I was under the impression that the compressor housing should be facing down? This is the way i received the turbo from them, do I need to rotate the housing so it's facing downward?
most turbo "kits" (or even turbos themselves) don't "pre-clock" the housings for you. Therefore, you must lossen the compressor cover bolts slightly and clock the compressor cover to the necessary position, then retighten to about 12-13ft-lbs (hand wrench tight). This is best done when you have all your intercooler piping and intercooler in front of you.
Thanks, just wanted to make sure before I adjusted it, I have my whole piping kit so I adjusted it to what looks good and left the bolts a bit on the loose end so I can make final adjustments once it's in there. Spent two hours this evening trying to get that stupid snap ring on for the HKS BoV, finally got it in and mounted, so things are coming together, hope to be done by the end of next week.
Thanks, just wanted to make sure before I adjusted it, I have my whole piping kit so I adjusted it to what looks good and left the bolts a bit on the loose end so I can make final adjustments once it's in there. Spent two hours this evening trying to get that stupid snap ring on for the HKS BoV, finally got it in and mounted, so things are coming together, hope to be done by the end of next week.
We love them.The smallest from Jegs is -4AN and you must split the line into 2 females to run it. But there is Woodward Machine, which makes a nice compact one -3AN line that integrated into a -3AN line from a kit. Only one in industry for -3AN
We love them.The smallest from Jegs is -4AN and you must split the line into 2 females to run it. But there is Woodward Machine, which makes a nice compact one -3AN line that integrated into a -3AN line from a kit. Only one in industry for -3AN
Wow that's great, I hadn't been able to find Any -3an. It sounds like you don't even cut the line right, how does it work, do you attach the filter to a fitting, and then attach the line to it( so it sits at the beginning of the line? ) I haven't found any good pictures yet.
Should be metal gasket from manifold to turbo, turbo to wastegate, turbo to downpipe. Although I have had and not had gaskets on the last 2 and never had a leak either way.
Trying to think of the easiest way to route my wastegate dump back into my downpipe so I can pass a VA safety inspection. What about something like this?
Trying to think of the easiest way to route my wastegate dump back into my downpipe so I can pass a VA safety inspection. What about something like this?
I don't know how your emissions are in your area, but in some states, so much as an aftermarket BOV venting to atmosphere will fail you, much less the wastegate dump. You may have to use a BOV that recirculates just to pass on any number of levels.
what you've selected is not going to take the EGTs you're creating. (even at crusing speed on the highway, you're at over 1400*F at the manifold, and about 1200*F-1300*F at the downpipe!!). You need to be able to have this fully installed and head to a fabricator to get the right diameter steel pipe and merge it to the exhaust.
You cannot merge it at a 90* angle at the downpipe, as that can cause exhaust energy turbulence and loss of power, and in some cases, unsteady boost. I know that Go-Autoworks makes a recirculated system that does exactly that, but again, not optimal by any means.
For example.
This merge location is not bad. It's at a sloping angle about 30* off of the downpipe itself, and past the downpipe bend as the downpipe becomes part of the exhaust system.
If you notice, the weld at the point of galvanized steel and the rest of the dumptube merge will not hold up on this car, as this flex steel may not work well at all. Its best to use an actual small flex pipe when making a dumptube merge
This is what you don't want if you can avoid it. I know who may have something like this, but again, we're talking about optimal and usable. Not if the merging causes any leaks or not.
These come in at a hard 90* right before the main bend of the downpipe going into the exhaust. This can cause boost stability problems. Not so much going from a smooth accleration rate on a dyno, but sudden acceleration from say, dropping gears to move quickly. that turbulence can cause some issues. You'll think something is physically wrong with the car, when its not.
The good thing about this, is the dumptube is made of the same material as the rest of the exhaust. THAT's what's important, and not that galvanized crap.
The welding is HORRIBLE on this one, but this is an example of an optimal dumptube merge.
This is good too:
This is actually one of the best ones:
Notice the flex pipe on even the dumptube to merge into exhaust to eliminate flex (mine cracked twice from not having this, but its not for everyone)
1. The same material for the downpipe is being used for the dumptube
2. Flex pipe on the dumptube itself
3. dumptube is going further down the exhaust system where exhaust energy is starting to reduce speed, which means less turbulence when the dumptube exhaust energy merges with the downpipe as the gate opens.
4. Angle of entry, though not optimal, is still very good.
You cannot merge it at a 90* angle at the downpipe, as that can cause exhaust energy turbulence and loss of power, and in some cases, unsteady boost. I know that Go-Autoworks makes a recirculated system that does exactly that, but again, not optimal by any means.
For example.
This merge location is not bad. It's at a sloping angle about 30* off of the downpipe itself, and past the downpipe bend as the downpipe becomes part of the exhaust system.
If you notice, the weld at the point of galvanized steel and the rest of the dumptube merge will not hold up on this car, as this flex steel may not work well at all. Its best to use an actual small flex pipe when making a dumptube merge
This is what you don't want if you can avoid it. I know who may have something like this, but again, we're talking about optimal and usable. Not if the merging causes any leaks or not.
These come in at a hard 90* right before the main bend of the downpipe going into the exhaust. This can cause boost stability problems. Not so much going from a smooth accleration rate on a dyno, but sudden acceleration from say, dropping gears to move quickly. that turbulence can cause some issues. You'll think something is physically wrong with the car, when its not.
The good thing about this, is the dumptube is made of the same material as the rest of the exhaust. THAT's what's important, and not that galvanized crap.
The welding is HORRIBLE on this one, but this is an example of an optimal dumptube merge.
Trust me thats not bad at all lol. I've done much much worse in my noob days with flux core.
This is good too:
This is actually one of the best ones:
4. Angle of entry, though not optimal, is still very good.
You say this is the best one yet it comes in at a 90 degree angle. I take it the fact its location farther downstream where exhaust energy is lower has a part to play, but does the perpendicular entry not negate that?
You say this is the best one yet it comes in at a 90 degree angle. I take it the fact its location farther downstream where exhaust energy is lower has a part to play, but does the perpendicular entry not negate that?
I'm looking more at the fact that it is downstream, has the flex section, and uses the right material. the transition, again, isn't optimal but not as good as the other example I showed.
It's one that displays 3 best attributes out of the 4 needed. I just couldn't find a perfect one with the time I had available to type this.
I ceramic coated the very manifold/downpipe/dumptube for the Sheepey manifold owner, so I got a first hand look.
Before
After
Okay I decided to just put it to the ground for now instead of the downpipe, I already got emissions done, only need a safety so hopefully they won't say anything.
I made my own dump pipe today, picked up a flange and a couple pieces of pipe, this is like my second time welding so don't give me too much crap, not too much you can do with a 90 amp flux core welder.
Its coming together, almost done now, here's how it looks now:
Looking good man! Maybe just tidy up the engine bay to look a bit cleaner but other than that
Is there a reason you have your downpipe looped like that?
Looking good man! Maybe just tidy up the engine bay to look a bit cleaner but other than that
Is there a reason you have your downpipe looped like that?
Haha thanks! For sure it is a total mess right now, still gotta clean it all up when it's finished.
That is actually the intake if you're talking about the pipe directly to the left of the red wastegate, it was a very tight squeeze to get any piping/filter on the turbo, so i routed it up and fabbed some pipe together and put it where the coolant overflow tank used to be, and will put the overflow somewhere else.
Haha thanks! For sure it is a total mess right now, still gotta clean it all up when it's finished.
That is actually the intake if you're talking about the pipe directly to the left of the red wastegate, it was a very tight squeeze to get any piping/filter on the turbo, so i routed it up and fabbed some pipe together and put it where the coolant overflow tank used to be, and will put the overflow somewhere else.
Aww gotcha should known, just used to seeing the compressor on the other side for some reason.
Finished it enough to start it up, let it idle for 30 minutes and let the coolant bubble, I had a HUGE oil leak when I started the car on a fitting I didn't tighten enough(probably a quart) I tightened it up, let it idle for awhile and everything is good, air fuel is at about 13.5-14.8 oil pressure was still dipping( I actually think it's from the lightweight flywheel), so I increased my minimum idle to 1300 in hondata and I no longer have any oil pressure issues. I drove it gently down to the gas station since I was almost out of gas and needed to fill up before I get it tuned.
At gas station: It's still a huge mess in the engine bay and that huge spool of red silicone is for when I hook the catch can up, some guy already complimented it though haha
07-05-2015, 06:22 PM
Re: Daboy Turbo Build GTX2867
