daboy155

I've never owned a turbo car, and really wanted one, after doing a bunch of research I decided on a b18b1 motor. My goal is 325hp right now, and I will raise it in a few months probably to around 400-425(whp).

I bought a beater 1998 integra LS for 700 bucks, it ran but "had a lot of problems and was leaking oil everywhere" I drove it home and started figuring out everything I needed to do.

I replaced the tires and rims since they were completely bald, went with enkei 16"s all around with RE-11 summer tires.

Went to pick and pull for a new hood since the original was dented. Did all the maintenance I could, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, coolant flush, etc...

I changed the entire suspension almost. While I was under there I saw that the front swaybar wasn't even connected to the control arms at all.

Put skunk2 coilovers on the front and rear and lowered the car a good amount, just enough to where I can still take most speed bumps at a little angle with a very minor or no scraping at all.

Function 7 Control arms, phi-50 bar across the back, skunk2 upper control arm/camber plates.



It was pretty gunked up when it came out, someone had rebuild it previously and put a couple tons of silicone over everything, so that took awhile to get off.

Before:




After:





Put Eagle rods, weisco 9.4:1 pistons in there, full supertech valve train, crower stage 2 cams, AEM adjustable cam gears, new waterpump, oil pump, all new gaskets, etc.

Put new coolant hoses, silicone lines, motor mounts, front axles, excedy stage 2 clutch, aem flywheel while it was apart.

I painted my valve cover while it was all apart since it looked horrible, just wanted to make it look clean.


Things left to do(I have most of the stuff here just need some time to get to it)
omni 3bar map sensor
hondata s300 install
walboro 255 pump
electronic exhaust cutout(push a button and i am open right off the downpipe)
HKS sqv 4 BOV(not a knockoff)
firewall oil T kit
Catch Can
AEM air fuel ratio gauge
boost gauge(cant remember brand)
all new rotors and pads all around
Go-Autoworks Downpipe 2 bungs
Go-autoworks FMIC Kit
Go-Autoworks Water/Oil cooling line kit
GTX2867r
Tial F38 Wastegate 1bar
Mac boost solenoid (boost by gear)

Interior needs some work and I need to repaint the car, it was pretty bad and rusty so I sanded it down, put some body filler in and primed it then plastidipped the whole car for now. I can't wait to get some real paint on there but it beats driving around a rust bucket.

Some Pics:
Lowered:


Before it was lowered




How I bought it:


Engine Bay(ignore the messy wires, in the middle of installing gauges)


Pioneer 12" running at 750W RMS 2 ohms


Rear Suspension


Front Camber/Coilovers

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Looks like its coming along very well, with an executed plan. Good luck to you with this..

daboy155

Thanks man! It's definitely progressing.

After work I had a few hours, so I put in the new walboro 255 fuel pump, installed a oil pressure gauge, and put new rear calipers, brakes, and rotors on. (caliper was siezed on the left side, right was in poor shape)

I torqued the brass fitting too tight into the block for the oil pressure gauge and it snapped off in the block, luckily I was able to screw it out, but that was not fun, learned from that one.

daboy155

Okay, so I need help figuring out what to do for the exhaust cutout, I'm going to keep the stock exhaust bolted up for a low profile non- attention look, but I have an electronic exhaust cutout which basically runs open headers when i pop the switch. It is too loud for me though, I want to knock it down a bit, any suggestions on what I could do? Some sort of silencer or mount another muffler back there or something? I still want a good flow so no cat or anything, just trying to knock the noise down some.

Geis

You could always just rune a 3 in exhaust with a pretty low profile muffler like a vibrant, look comparable to a stock one except larger and flows 3 in through obviously. Won't attract attention at all. Also you have to remember with the cutout that it should be at least a decent amount quieter when you actually have the turbo on, usually people don't use cutouts 100% of time anyways so I still think the exhaust is a better idea.

daboy155

That's true I could just do away with the stock exhaust, I was hoping to keep the cat though so I am "legal" with the cutout being a loophole, but I know turbo+ cat is no good unless its high flow, but I don't want to dump money into a cat.

Its so loud though haha I knew it would be loud but not this loud.

Couple vids I took tonight

http://vid62.photobucket.com/albums/h114/Ravangerpwns/Mobile%20Uploads/Snapchat-5584552701966376610_zpsgzalfccp.mp4

http://vid62.photobucket.com/albums/h114/Ravangerpwns/Mobile%20Uploads/Snapchat-7011638726161308944_zpsjtmy65yy.mp4

LightningTeg

You cant have an open dump and not be loud. So either you accept the fact that when its open you have the fumes/noise, and you close it when you want quiet. Otherwise I dont see the point in having a stock exhaust

daboy155

I think I'll just get a 3" all the way down, probably midpipe and muffler, and just replace the stock one, you're right.

Okay what is going on, I drove around today and sure enough once the car got warmed up the oil pressure at idle is horrible. The oil light comes on, only at idle, and I was watching my gauge and it's dipping to about 3 so I had to keep it revved up at stoplights and drive it home, it's only at idle, everything else is fine, it's around 35-45 when I'm just driving around. I'm running 5-40 rotella in there so its heavy duty stuff too...

KevinEF7

"heavy duty".... cmon man. if your oil light is coming on at idle you need to switch to 15w40, 5 is to thin for your current bearing clearances. If your oil light is coming on when the engine is warmed up you are seriously risking seizing and damaging the engine

Also you video with open header your car is still n/a, which is stupid loud, open downpipe with a turbo is MUCH quieter

daboy155

I thought 5/15 was the number of thickness when its cool, and 40 was when warm? So how would a thicker number when cool help if it's only happening at idle when warm?

LightningTeg

even with 5-40 it shouldnt be that low.

daboy155

Im gonna put 15-40 in it and maybe shim the oil pump relief spring for more pressure down low?

LightningTeg

20-50

daboy155

something like this?

LightningTeg

I use VR1 personally

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

VR-1 "Blue" Oil


or Brad Penn "Green" Oil

daboy155

Thanks, I put the brad penn 20-50 in with a tiny bit of lucus oil stab. I ran it again and tried to get it hot, everything is great while it's cold, then after 20 mins of driving the oil will dip at idle. The pressure is perfect at high rpms. Still having the oil light come on at low rpm. There were a few metal shavings in the oil I drained last too, nothing major but definitely there on the magnetic drain plug. What do I do next? Shim the pump, increase the torque on the rod caps?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

that's something else. no shim can solve that. No oil can solve that. We were just posting recommended oils to use over the Rotella stuff, Provided that everything is working properly. Not as a fix to a mechanical oil pump issue. Even I don't use that weight for brad penn. I use 10w-40. the weight used depends more upon your bearing clearances then with the issues with the pump.

Is the pump new? Perhaps I missed that detail.

daboy155

Yes the pump is new, replaced almost everything so it's hard to pinpoint it, everything in or on the block is new except valve guides, everything in the bay is pretty much new too, think the pump is not good? It's aftermarket crappy brand and not OEM

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That may be issue to start..

daboy155

Okay I'll put a new pump on and torque the rod caps a bit and see what happens

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Only torque where they need to be torqued based upon your specifications. You don't just torque down "a little more" arbitrarily.

daboy155

Right, the guy who built it said they were definitely torqued to spec, but it's worth double checking. Anything else I should look at besides replacing the oil pump and checking the torque ?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There's no reason to re-torque. Just check to see if there is any loss of bearing material or damage to the crank journals

daboy155

Well I was thinking it might help with the low oil pressure at idle maybe? Just trying to think of all the possibilities of why my oil pressure is almost non existant at idle, and it's only once the oil is warm, it's fine cold I don't have a windband hooked up, but I can tell it's running rich, I know that probably has something to do with it, but not that huge of an effect