WAUKEENEM1

long story short...about a month ago i did a highway pull/launch and once i got to about 80 mph @ 3rd gear, i heard this clicking/grinding noise after let go off gas and slightly tap it again.
normal launch at around 3000-3500k, and yes there was some wheel hopping. got boost to around 14psi.
after i got home i put on jack stand and started the car. motor runs and idles normal, but when it's in gear it makes this clicking/grinding noise.

i thought i must have broken an axle(s), got both axles replaced and still same noise.
after reading and researching online, i came to conclusion that the isb(input shaft bearing) may be shot.

well, when i lowered the tranny (first time/attemp at this), i forgot 2 bolts on the bottom of tranny, so it got hung up. after i got the tranny off i noticed that on of the tab on the throw out bearing was broken off.
couldn't this the problem making that noise? or could it have gotten damaged/broken when i lowered the tranny?
also, since i got tranny out should, i just go ahead and replaced the isb?

thanks

LTCxD2B

If there is a grinding noise and u see no metal shaving near the clutch ... It's internal

viper_boy403

iTrader: (1)

How much power are you making?

WAUKEENEM1

clutch looks fine...normal wear. no metal shaving. like i said one of the tab on the throw out bearing was broken. when i wiggle the clutch release fork, it fell off.

WAUKEENEM1

350ish...it has act 12 pounf flywheel, exedy stage 2 clutch n pp...approx 10k on it

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

It's an internal bearing on the transmission. Most likely a diff bearing from the wheel hop or the input shaft bearing if it's clicking while not in gear. But it's possible that a shaft beqring is damaged but not likely

WAUKEENEM1

it onlys clicks/grind when in gear. in neutral, it idels/runs fine.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Pull transmission out and look For the bad bearing

WAUKEENEM1

clutch, pp,and fw looks fine. but might as well replaced them. only got about 10k on them, but date stamp on it is 6/5/05.

got tranny out, just trying to get that snap ring loose. can't find my needle nose, so just using 2 flatheads...pita. might go get a snap pryer.

i'm thinking just go ahead replaced isb, throwout,pilot,diff bearing just to be safe.
how to tell if bearing is bad?
mainshaft is straight, no play when push it up and down, left n right.

WAUKEENEM1

looks like i'm gonna need a new differential. pull tranny apart, and there were 7-8 teeth from differential broken off.
should i replaced the differential bearing when i installed new differential?
what else should i replaced while i'm at it?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you should replace the diff bearings. You should replace ALL of your bearings, seals, and syncros while you're in there. Also make sure to inspect your shift selector assembly, as well as your shift forks. You'll need an FSM and feeler gauges.

WAUKEENEM1

i'll check all of them n replaced as needed.

what is a FSM? sorry, not really good at these abbreviations.

can a pressure be resurface and reused along with it's flywheel?
i'm thinking that since my fw,pp,clutch disc are still good but disc has maybe about 50% left, maybe i could just get a new clutch disc.

thanks

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

FSM = Factory Service Manual. It's the massive book stealership tech's use for literally everything on the car. It can also be downloaded, if you search.

Yes, any competent machine shop should be able to resurface your pressure plate as well as your flywheel.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Most pressure plates can't be resurfaced since it would reduce the clamping force of the clutch... you'd be increasing the clearance between the pressure plate and friction material.

most name brand clutch companies can put a new insert in your pressure plate or supply you with a new pressure plate at a minimum cost.

unless the plate is heavily heat scored or warped you shouldn't need to replace it. check it with a straight edge to check.

if you broke teeth off of the spider gears in the diff you've likely also damaged or heavily worn other components in the transmission. you need to thoroughly look it over or send it to someone who can. At least I would say replace every bearing and synchro at least and replace any other components that show signs of wear/damage/fatigue.

disassembly and reassembly of a transmission and the gear clusters isn't something everyone can do. you need a factory service manual, lots of tools, and the proper knowledge... or you can **** things up horribly.

WAUKEENEM1

can i just get a new disc is the pp is good, ie straight...no warp,heat spots. as far as i can tell, it's straight n smooth. just need to find who sells exedy stage 2 3 puck clutch disc.

after closer in inspection, without taking internal apart. the ring gear is chewed up and so as the final drive gear on the countershaft.
so, can i just replaced the ring gear or do i need to replaced the diff also?

how do u tell if the bearings r bad? from what i can see/feel....they're all in good shape...not scar,scrath, nicks, spins freely.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If you broke teeth in the diff (not the ring gear) then the diff needs to be replaced... if the ring gear AND pinion are damaged then you have to replace both of them not just one.

if the broken teeth damaged gears then it's likely that fine debris made it into the synchros and the bearings. If it hasn't failed yet it likely will eventually. replace everything with stronger parts.

although you have to be driving like a jackass all the time to do the kind of damage you're describing

WAUKEENEM1

without taking the diff out, looks like just the ring gears were damaged. it may need a new countershaft, cuz the bottom portion that goes into the bearing, the gears are chewed up. i think it's part of the countershaft.

lf debris from the ring gears got into the rest of tranny gears/parts, would it be better just to get a new used tranny?
seems like it's gonna cost more getting rebuilt than buying one. plus, not sure how long it will last.

i dont' drive like a jackass,lol. i will do a pull once in awhile, but not everytime i'm behind the wheel. it's not the first time wheel hopping too, so that doesn't help. i'm sure tranny were about to go, n this last pull must have done.

what other contrubiting factors could have cause this? suspension, improper/bad launch?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Wheel hop will break anything. only way to eliminate it is a good set of traction bars. stiffer bushings in the front suspension arms will also help eliminate suspension deflection.

if wheel hop is happening during a burnout try a higher rpm to start.
if it's on launch play around with rpm and how much you slip/preload the clutch

WAUKEENEM1

definately will get traction bar and front arm bushing after getting new tranny installed.
i've decided not to rebuild my b16 tranny. i'm going with a gsr tranny for the same amount of cost to rebuild it.

after researching and lots of reading about clutches, ie 4,6 puck, sprung, unsprung. i've decided to replaced my exedy stage 2 with a comp clutch 6 puck sprung stage 3 street/strip series with 10 pound flywheel.

from what i read/heard it's a little better/more usable for street/daily driven. which is what i need, and i'm only making about 350hp and 200 ft tq.
is that a good choice, what r ur thoughts/recommendations?

thnx

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If you're breaking stock parts and then keep replacing them with stock parts you'll keep breaking things.

LTCxD2B