billydw1

First, let me introduce myself. I have been reading honda-tech for quite some time now with very little (if any) posts. I prefer to research prior to asking questions and build my knowledge before adding any input. This is, however, my second turbo build, the first was a 270 whp d16 in a '00 EX which I sold off a few years ago.

The bug bit me once again about this time last year when I bought a JDM B16A from HMO for my 89 Si hatch, which I dropped in a set of Brian Crower Stage 2 N/A cams with a 3 angle valve job and BC springs/retainers. Along with CAI, 4-2-1 Header, Catback, Skunk2 IM, s300 EM, this got me to 183 whp at the tuner. Also have traction bars, Y1 LSD tranny, and Stage 3 clutch to help put the power to the wheels (something I mistakingly skimped on with the d16 turbo). It's been fun, but now I want more out of my DD.

My goal, ~300-320 whp on the overwise stock B16 and of course, I'd like to meet this goal with the turbo in it's efficiency range. Component build so far:

GT2860RS T3 .64 housing
Mini Ram with 3" d/p
Tial WG closed loop to d/p (don't like noisy exhausts)
Apexi WS2 exhaust system ( i know, its only ~2.25", but see comment above)
Greddy RS BOV
Drag FMIC
RC 550's
Walbro 255 FP
Catch can breather system
ARP Head Studs
s300 w/ MAC boost control
GM 3 bar map sensor
Professionally tuned by Church
------------------------------

So the build is going turbo over the next few months and in doing so I plan to install the ARP head bolts which means the cams must come out first.

I've searched around with many mixed comments about a few things:

1. Can I safely replacing the head bolts one at a time without pulling the head? The head gasket was just replaced 6 months ago with a Felt.

2. I still have my original B16A cams, should I re-install them for this build or will the BC Stage 2 N/A cams be okay? If I do re-install the original cams, will the upgrade valve springs be "a waste"? If in keeping the BC cams, should I install cam gears to "tune out" overlap?

3. Any other flags or concerns with my set-up?

It should be noted that I will be building the motor and using a larger turbo in the future, but not for at least another year or so. Prob with 400+ goals.

4genaccordfreak

1: You will have some trouble installing ARP headstuds correctly with the head remaining on the block one-at-a-time, there is a special torque sequence that needs to be followed so all of the headstuds will need to be loose anyways. just get a OEM HONDA headgasket, install the studs and torque the head correctly. do not cut corners.

2: I would recommend re-installing the b16a cams. they are more than enough for your current and future goals. camshaft rule-of-thumb for turbo applications is more lift, less duration. your N/A BC-2's may be too aggressive for trouble-free smooth tuning, although I have seen many setups with N/A cams that work fine after finding the right cam settings. Keeping the valvesprings/retainers in the head will not be a waste at all. if anything you are improving the weight and reliability of your valvetrain which is good practice for higher requirements of your engine under forced applications.

3: Your setup sounds good. do not cheap out on components that need to be working properly all the time. By the looks of your list, you are in the right direction. your fuel system may need some upgrading when you want to shoot for the 400+ HP goals. larger injectors, a good quality fuel pressure regulator and good tuning will be needed.

good luck

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You never "waste" valvetrain parts, but it is a waste of time to try and "dial out" the overlap of the camshaft. Just get a GS-R camshaft or so and retune.

sdubfid

I have replaced stock bolts for arp studs 1 at a time. I didn't have any issues with hg problems.

Would you consider selling your stg 2 cams and using the money to buy itr cams? Thats probably the best option since they will work well for the gt28 and for your next turbo.

Bseriescivic5

I would probably stick with the stock b16a cams and sell off the Brian crowers.... use that money for a good tune down the road. Head will need to come off to properly install the head studs... no way to get around that. Headgaskets are 50bucks so it shouldnt be a big deal.

You may want to look into a catch can setup, to releave some of the crank case pressure... not required but def. a good call since the motor is stock.

billydw1

Thank you for your input, 4gen. I understand the torque sequence and have decided to "suck it up" and get a new headgasket and do it right. Nothing is worse than "re-work".

Thanks for the input on the valvetrain. I sourced a set of '98 GSR cams, so the BC S2 NA cams are going to the wolves on the market. If I had put the B16 cams back in, I would have felt as thought I had upgraded the valvetrain for nothing...not that the GSR's really needed it...

I knew the limitations of the RC 550's when I bought them, but the price was right and I'll easily be able to get my dough back when I upgrade later. I was under the impression that the stock FPR was good up to about 500hp?

I wouldn't boost without an upgraded block breathing system. I have the port adapters for the back of the block and brass freeze plug for when I remove the breather box as well as a baffled catch can.

I hadn't planned on doing anything with the valve cover other than using a small filter on the single stock breather port that used to go directly to the IM. Do you think the valve cover needs more breathing room than that?

Thanks again for your input.

blinx9900

BC stg 2 cams are small, you will be fine with them, i used them and i also used there stage 3 NA cams on a turbo build and still made more power, there not the best cams but there stage 2 is not that big, but yeah sell them if you can make money and get ITR/CTR, only cuz your power goals are low. But if it cost you money to get new cams don't do it. Listen to me, i have first hand experience, everybody else just bullshitting and hersay...

4genaccordfreak

Regardless of whether stock can handle or is good up to.. it provides no adjustability for proper tuning. especially at any power levels above 350hp. A good quality fuel rail mounted FPR would do the job just fine to maximize fuel control and efficiency of your setup. tuning is not always about injector duty cycle. With slight adjustments to fuel pressure, injector duty cycle can be reduced (to a point).

in comparison, at those power levels and tuning requirements. not upgrading your FPR with the rest of the fuel system is like doing an complete engine tune-up, but not changing the spark plugs. Doesn't make sense right?

Bseriescivic5

For the power level he wants an adjustable FPR is simply not needed. Yes, its worth it down the road if your going to be shooting for bigger power, but if you buy a set of ID1000's your not going to need to mess with the fuel pressure..period. Again, they are fairly cheap so if you want go for it, but the take home message is that its not needed.; As for the valve cover ports... I think you will be fine with what you have outlined... but its something to condsider down the road when you shoot for your 400+ goal....

I think you have done a very good job with the research and you are well on your way. Keep us updated.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The B&M FPR is simply a run-of-the-mill Fuel modifyer not a regulator. It can only raise pressure, not lower it. They also have a high failure. If you were to get one, please get a real regulator.

crosser11

bump this thread up.. did you end up using the N/A cams.. if so how did they work out?

crosser11

only asking becasue i myself am using n/a cams with a b18c turbo build

crosser11

well.. will be

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

this thread is a year old.... i seriously doubt the op is still around....

make a new thread