NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Why not dry sump it?

CaliforniaDad

iTrader: (6)

Never even looked into it, So I don't know. how is it compared?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

A dry sump really isn't necessary for this particular situation. He's not doing the lateral G's in that car needed to warrant the use of a dry sump. It would turn a simply resolved issue into a unnecessarily complicated one, even more than adding a simple pump gear.

CaliforniaDad

iTrader: (6)

aahhhh okay. never-mind than.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I know. I've been reading through his build, though. It seems over-complicated is his MO

Frees up horses, since you don't have the crank dragging through oil. Lets you run a shallower oil pan, since oil isn't being stored in the pan anymore, which lets you lower the motor more in the bay, lowering your center of gravity. You use a belt driven (or sometimes electric motor driven) pump to pump oil through your motor, so you can adjust the pressure to be whatever you want (within reason) with different pulleys and other hardware.

If Shodan says it'll be over-kill for your car, it probably will be. Just figured I'd mention it, if you're worried about oil pressures.

redboost10

Also creates vacuum as well

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That too. There's a lot of benefits to it. The only down-sides are cost, and more moving parts. More moving parts means more parts that might just fail, and more weight. The weight factor is minimal, though.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Again, he's not going through the lateral Gs for the use of the car to warrant it. In addition, the amount of parasitic loss of the crank experiencing a lot of oil is extremely negligible for his purpose, especially in a turbocharged application that needn't rely on adjustable hardware to maximize performance.. again, for the particular purpose of this Honda.

Now, if it were in a sanctioned event such as H1 or H2 Honda Challenge where all of the above mentioned were accounted for, (and even then, I'd say certain Toyotas or Hyundais would need it more than a Honda B-series would simply due to their engine designs for that kind of racing weren't in the engineer's heads when they made those engines) then I can see the point. But here, no.. Simply replace the one part that's needed, and let the rest do its job as intended. The more you overtake the plumbing, the easier it is to stop-up the drain.

Despite his power levels, its still a street car, and he should treat it as such to eliminate simple issues. I didn't say it wouldn't work, I said it was overkill and unnecessary. With the amount of over-redundancies he has with the car now, this would simply make a common resolution overly complicated.

I mean, obviously, its up to him, but the theoretical advantages that you listed, while fine-and-dandy, don't relate to his needs in an applied, practical manner. Just one more thing he'd have to look out for electrically.

Like it was stated earlier. K.I.S.S.

CaliforniaDad

iTrader: (6)

Yeah just gonna pick up a new OEM pump and install the TODA

Runnerdown

With a good damper the oem pump will be fine. Balancing the crank, rods and pistons is not related to harmonics which is what causes the rotors to crack. As far as increasing output due to the oil cooler, can't say for sure but the setups I have ran did not require work done to the pump to be reliable. It depends how much pressure you drop across the exchanger. Like tepid said it's also important to check the pump alignment.

DDTECH

Why?..

I do it on every build, including my own. It ups the pressure, you don't need a big washer, but its a peace of mine.

If you're gonna spend that much money, contact the old one.. and get a ported pump from them, with a upgraded gear.. There's no STAGES in oil pumps.. that's so dumb.

CaliforniaDad

iTrader: (6)

Duly noted , thanks.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Because if he shims it and increases oil pressure everywhere the turbocharger like everything else, will also be affected by that oil pressure.

If not the Toda Racing oil pump gear, he could get a modified one from Endyn, as I have seen what he does to the OEM oil pumps to have them work for oil-stressed engines running multiple coolers and other equipment... I personally have not used Endyn's pumps in my racing, so I can't critique or complement either way.

Calidad.. Make sure that you take out the pump gear of the OEM and measure it FIRST before ordering your Toda Racing gear. From what I remember, the GS-R /ITR (which is now all the same part number) is 80mm, while the older early-90's B-series used the 84mm sized pumps

DDTECH

Doesn't this turbo have a restrictor on it or built inline??..

OneBadTurboCRV

He said GOOD dampener haha. Get an ATI Super Damper and call it a day.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

For Calidad, I honestly don't remember if he did or not. (He should have, but it has to be right aperture.) If so, I'm not aware of it. the dangerous part is that restrictors may need to vary in actual size sometimes as oil pressures change. The current one utilized for the Surfer and Reaper are for those with about 75-90psi of oil pressure. After that, it has to be reduced slightly. Again.. you start messing with the oil pressures, although most things benefit, there will always be a hiccup that has to be accounted for.

If he doesn't have the right one, and he starts changing sump setups and oil pressures, with a brand new turbo, the first thing that he's going to think is that it "blew the seals", when in fact, it didn't. (see write-up https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/please-help-turbo-starvation-3189718/) Now that's one more problem he's gotta focus on when the oil pressures he had on the last turbo were spot on... Only fix what's needed. On the rest, if it ain't broke, don't try to "fix it".

CaliforniaDad

iTrader: (6)

So at what point will i need the restrictor on the Reaper?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

For honda B-series, about 80psi +..for the .060" restrictor, so if you haven't used one now, you'll need one the second you change that oil system. It's better to have the restrictor and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

All those gauges you have in there to monitor like the Enterprise....So..what's your oil pressure at cold start and WOT?

ArniFPR

Just use an oem ITR pump or go with an orbit pump, it doesn't matter if you are using an oil cooler or not,

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hate to break it to you, but...

ITR oil pump: 15100-P72-A01
GSR oil pump: 15100-P72-A01
LS oil pump: 15100-P72-A01

They're all the same.

non-VTEC

honda must have recently changed their part numbers...many years ago they all had different part numbers.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

These have been about the same since about 2002-2003.

117

Sorry to thread jack (kind of), but do you have a part number or something for the restrictor? I'm building an engine with a GTX2867R, and the previous engine would hit over 90 PSI oil pressure pretty easily. I'm sure I'm going to need it with my current setup before we start the engine for the first time.

m4xwellmurd3r

**** what engine are you building? I have plans on using a gtx2867r on a b18 ls. I havent seen anyone use one yet, just the bigger turbos

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Those use a completely different restrictor. Those use a 7/16 to -3AN male .035" restrictor (1 company has one for 7/16ths to -4AN for those who plan to run an inline oil filter that require a -4AN line. )

E-mail specifically B&R Fittings. they have the 7/16th to -3AN .035" restrictor for the GTX2867R. Located here

http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?...&product_id=92.

If you need -4AN size for an inline oil filter, simply e-mail them specifically when ordering.