yungkhmer

never had this issue until my radiator blew a few days ago.

stock ls vtec sc34 street tuned at 10psi. i checked my plugs, they look fine. three other opinions said they were also okay. replaced my cap and rotor, reused my spark plug wires. Cleaned my IACV and VTEC solenoid. oil level is perfect, its right below the first top dot.

Still vtec wont engage and i hit a brick wall at 5k. Someone suggested a valve adjustment but that was done about 2k miles ago when i swapped in some GSR cams. timing is correct, everything lines up.

what could be the problem? i can upload my map later if anyone wants to check over it... thanks for looking HT

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

CEL on? Does it work?

yungkhmer

NO cel's, and it works I d/c map sensor and it threw the code.

yungkhmer

anyone got ideas... im stumped. i looked at the vtec solenoid, screen is still clean and clear, same with iacv. tested the solenoid itself and it clicks when 12v is applied to it.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

What are you tuned on?
Vss work?
vtec pressure switch connected?
ect sensor working?
Do you have an oil pressure gauge?
Crank timing marks and cam marks are correct?

What exactly happened when the radiator blew? Hose popped off? Did the motor overheat much?

yungkhmer

It was a " patched " radiator, the bottom leg was grinded off to fix a big hole. It was ... youll never guess this. There was a PENNY used to cover the HOLE and some sort of epoxy or plastic JB weld ****. I was pretty dumbfounded when i saw that ****. Hoses were fine, neither of the two popped off. And i Didnt overheat. When i saw the coolant's puddle, i pushed my car about 5 feet to a water hose they had and filled her up and dipped home. I didnt over heat at all during that drive.

m4xwellmurd3r

Do tou have a cat? A crushed exhaust pipe, or a restricted one, can do what youre describing. I had a car that could not rev past 5k cause the pipe got smashed

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Bye

yungkhmer

I'm running open downpipe til next week when my v-band and SS 2.5in exhaust piping comes in from Columbia River Mandrel Bending.

So after reading my original post, i noticed that i said i " LOOKED " at the spark plugs, well i DID. i just never GAPPED them?... i swear i did unless i dropped in new ones without paying attention. i have like 4 sets of used and 2 sets of bnib ngks.

But anyways, i guess i threw in the bnib ones because they WERNT gapped.













and i think i have another problem..



so.. im guessing im OFF, but by how much? a tooth? what do you guys think? i also threw in a brand new dizzy rotor, cap still looks fine with no build up. I need to get this figured out cus theres a dyno day coming up in two months and getting a hold of my tuner will be hard. he lives about 3hrs north of me in bellingham,wa.

Also.. my buddy has a slightly used. Im talking like, 500 miles on his "ACCEL Super Coil - Ignition Coil. Part # 11076" for sale for $30 bucks and a set of BNIB ngk spark plug wire set for $40. would that be a good $70 dollar investment? ****, i could probably even get it for $50 if i kept bugging him. lol let me know thanks guys.

yungkhmer

I guess its a limiter but ive never had problems going past 5k in the past. I was always able to reach redline at 8k.

as soon as the needle TOUCHES 5k it just stays there spittin and putting, loss of all power, backfire crazy **** going on. thought i blew my motor. But under 5k, it drives absolutely amazing. no hiccups no nothing.

phaphon

get it tune. also fix that timing

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Timing off and tune is fucked.

Stop throwing parts at it.

yungkhmer

i regapped my plugs from .40 to .28, im pretty sure that played a big roll in it. and my street tune was pretty solid. part throttle tuning could use more time, we spent most of the morning doing wot tuning. Also re timed it, crank now lines up with the white dot and the cam gear markings are dead even across. timing belt has a LIL slack on the exhaust side, intake side is pretty tight.

Now i gotta do a valve adjustment, i took out the cams to make sure my arp studs were still torqued to spec, and they were. Gonna try and take it out later tomorrow after the valve adjustment or after work and see if that fixes anything.

yungkhmer

how does my plugs look to you guys?

pkopalek

What are you tuning with?

This sounds a lot like when I am tuning a turbo car that I forgot to move VTEC up to 7k for, and going from 4k-6k to put together base tune, and VTEC fuel is about 2x as much as it needs (because I haven't even put guesstimate numbers in there yet).

That's now how I tune them anymore (at all), but that's a lot what it sounds like. Not something mechanical/physical. Timing way off or a computer issue or something (not parts that are broken or set up wrong).

yungkhmer

chrome pro........

i was able to hit redline at wot with 12:5-7 AFR few weeks back. It was running completly fine, the only thing i did that i can remember was swap out plugs and a dizzy. i checked timing, cam gears line up. number 1 piston is all the way up and crank lines up to white dot. im gonna wait til my day off, and recheck everything i guess.

ill start with..

mechanical timing agian
dizzy timing
valve adjustment

few weeks ago i cleaned my iacv, vtec solenoid, tb ( sticking a little bit i noticed )
oil level is right below the the top dot after warm up. regapped plugs also.

VegasInvasion

one tooth is at least 12* of timing. your head or deck is probably just slightly milled or you have slop in the timing belt. that wouldn't cause you to limit at 5k.
Vtec will disable if there are bubbles in the coolant system, which won't throw a code.
If you have too much slop in your timing belt, the crank angle sensors will be off and vtec will disable without a code.
If you got water in your VSS sensor then Vtec will disable without a code.
If your throttle positon sensor shifted during cleaning it may rev limit without a code.
It would really benefit us to see a datalog and the calibration or bin file.