1158

Wonder if anyone here is using a Bosch knock sensor and if so how/where did you mount it. I'd like to put it in the stock location but I think the only way to do that is drill/tap the block and I'd rather not have to tear the engine out of the car. I just don't think I could do a good job of it with the block in the car.

Looks like Bosch sensor mounts with m8x1.25 bolt and the stock knock sensor appears to be m12x1.25.

TIA

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

You could probably make an adapter yourself or have on machined out of a small piece of steel round stock.

In for this because I'm interested in implementing some knock monitoring myself.

1158

I was thinking about cutting a m12 stud to the length I need and then welding on a m8 stud. I figure red loctite on the threads would hold it in the block. I'm just not sure if I can pull it off.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Also, are you sure that the Honda one is m12x1.25? I feel like I remember it being a tapered thread...

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Check out page 9 of my build thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...3086196&page=9

I say in my thread this welded bolt method amplified the harmonics but I later found that was an unrelated issued. So I believe this is still an easy solution.


However I ended up using these. 90245A173 from Mcmaster.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I remembered seeing/reading about that welded bolt somewhere! Those helicoils look like the hot ticket though. I didn't think they made them with that drastic a size difference.

1158

Muck,

Thanks for the info. Those inserts you used are what I was trying to find but had no luck. Do you think it would be possible to put them in without removing the Intake? If I have to I have to, but it would be cool if I didn't have to. I like your solution for bypassing the tool you are supposed to use for the inserts.

spAdam, I'll let you know how it works, I plan to order today.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Yes I installed it with the intake manifold on from underneath the car. Was very easy with the oil filter and black box removed.

1158

Thanks. I don't have the black box and my oil filter has been moved. I'm looking forward to doing this.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I still might try to whip something upon the lathe. I want to be able to revert to obd2 in case I move to a state that does inspections. Right now all I have to do is plug in an ecu and thread a second O2s into the cat. It's nice peace of mind.

1158

Understand that. I am past that point. If we ever get emissions/obd2 testing here I will have to swap in the original motor lol. Stock ECU would puke if I tried to hook it up to this motor!

Good luck!

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Back from the dead, but I just stumbled on this:



About $3-4 from Toyota. Hopefully this info will help some people.

I obviously never got to work on this, but now that life is settling down a little I'm starting to revisit some of my projects.

VegasInvasion

I use the knocksense on some cars with the helicoils, either in the original knock port or on one of the extra exhaust bracket holes.
But I would suggest using a pitchfork or a frequency generator to dial in the pot. There's a frequency calculator here:
http://www.phormula.co.uk/KnockCalculator.aspx
I use a frequency generator phone app, and just feed the leads from my phone's headphone jack to the knocksense.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Whoa, never even heard of the phone app. Is there some way to just wire the knock sensor to something like a dummy light?

VegasInvasion

you can't just wire it directly to a light, it won't tell you anything. you CAN wire it to your speakers though; it's basically a microphone after all. but the electronics filter out the redundant engine noise so you can actually hear the knock, which is very difficult to detect otherwise.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Got my bolts today, I'll probably wait until after the holiday to pick up the rest of the pieces and hook it all up to NepTune.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I looked for step down bolts for a long time until I decided on the helicoil solution. What thread diam and pitch is the larger end?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

12x1.25/8x1.25. They were $3.60 a piece.

I found them on a supra forum while reading up on the bosch sensor.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Is the m12x1.25 the block thread pitch? Which knock sensor did you use that had threads of 8x1.25? the bosh sensor i see online look to not be threaded

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

The knock sensor is not threaded. You install the stud and then but the sensor on... Gently.

DC_Legacy

I know this is besides the point but as an alternative you can also consider placing the knock sensor here if your valvetrain is a bit noisy....I've had no issues hearing Det (when it occurred) as mine sensor is bolted in down here where it is threaded...

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

So the pitch is m12x1.25?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Yes

VegasInvasion

Knock occurs at TDC, so the farther from TDC you are, the less reliable your signal is.
Valve noise on low displacement should not be an issue if your sensor is properly filtered.
I've had a few clients just epoxy a bolt to the block between cylinder 2 & 3, which is ideal placement. Doesn't seem to dampen signal at all, to my surprise. I ended up having to do it to a Z6 block myself, even with floating pistons it's still accurate.

DC_Legacy

Yeah I know many here wont be inclined to place theirs where mine was placed but when I heard knock I heard it for certain regardless of this being further down bore from TDC......

Since I'm redoing my setup to an LS bottom end and using Full floating P72A0 Nippons with your cookie cutter forged B Series H beams I'm thinking about getting a secondary sensor that way I can run two where one will be in stock placement up top and the other will be where my current sensor is....