Srtk4l

Hey guys not sure what happened to my last post. But, I recently added some bolt ons to my em1. Type r cams. Type r intake manifold. Skubk2 tb. 4-1 header 2.5" and full 2.5" catback. Now my stock ecu turns the car on fine. How ever. I don't really want to drive with stock fuel settings. I tried using a chipped p28 with a jumper harness. But it won't work. I have a walbro 190. So u can hear it come on as soon as u turn the key. With the p28 you don't. So no fuel. Also tried a p72 ecu obd2b just like mine. No luck. It's like the car knows when it doesn't have the stock ecu. If anyone has ran into this please let me know how to fix thanks.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Well the obd2b P72 should have an immobilizer, so don't expect that to work unless it's been modified. See if you can get another (preferably unmolested) obd1 ecu and try that. It's most likely either a bad chip/chip job or the ecu has gone bad. Are there any codes to flash?

Also, you really need a tune. A chip isn't going to do you much good, if any.

Srtk4l

Thanks. I was waiting on this reply. Today I went ahead and installed my aem wide band and to my surprise car is actually running rich. Which makes me feel a lil better. Car Idles at 12.2 and at wot. Stays at 11.3 during high rev. Stays at a good 12.8- 13 out of vtec during wot. I was going to try to use an fpr. To turn down my fuel pressure to see if it helps. My only fuel mod I have is walbro 190. I also might try e85. Or 50/50 mix and see if that leans me up. I'm trying to aim for 13 air to fuel ratio. I will try another p28 and see how that goes.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Don't go playing around with alternative fuels unless you're ready to tune. It's not just a matter of trying them out. Where did you get this ecu/chip from?

Srtk4l

I bought a 4 door in San Antonio. It has lsv with b16 trans. I thought would put that in my em1. Drove the car from San Antonio to Houston. But car was smoking bad. So I decided to just take the bolt ons off and put in my em1 mean while I replace. Piston rings and valve seals on lsv. The p28 is what was running the lsv before inpulled it out.

Srtk4l

Ok today used virging p28 car cranked. Right up. Thanks for all the help

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

No problem. If you want a chip that you stand a chance of even being in the ballpark with, get a hold of Phearable or Xenocron. It won't be a long term substitute for a tune, but you'll generally be able to drive it without having to worry too much. If you're not comfortable chirping the ecu yourself, they can do that too (or maybe even diagnose/fix the one you have)

Srtk4l

Ok I looked into them there is a local shop here that does the same. They said 40-50$ they'll make a base map for my car based on my bolt ons. And later on they can tune for 550. As long as it takes. To get it right. Which is better than the previous tuner I had. But thanks for helping me solve the issue. How ever when I used the p28 rpms. Are no longer working. But other than that everything works. Ac speedometer. Vtec everything. What should I look into for rpms. Also with p28 car drives alot better. Than my stock em1 ecu

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Are you talking about the tach? On the 2000 the tach signal comes from the ecu instead of the straight off of the icm, if I remember correctly. I can't remember how I worked around that, but it shouldn't be more than a jumper wire to fix it.

550 sounds like a lot for a basic bolt-one NA cal, depending on what kind of dyno. You can probably negotiate down a bit, especially if it's just going to be on an inertial dynojet. I'd be willing to pay more for a tune on a Mustang/Dynapack/etc.

theYBLEGAL

Blue wire from dizzy runs to distribution block by bmc. Splits to ecu and tach separately from there.

theYBLEGAL

My guess is your conversion harness needs some modification

Srtk4l

Oh ok thanks guys