Shongku

60ft before camber kit: 2.5xx
60ft after camber kit & alignment: 2.240

205-45-16 Toyo Proxes 4 @ 35psi

Same tires. Coincidence or maybe the tow was just off the first time? (Didn't have an alignment done then). No modifications to the engine were made.

Do they help or is it just some myth? I understand most people including myself used to think camber kits would significantly improve tire wear but thanks to all the experienced guys out there we found that it was the vehicle's tow that wore the tires so quickly away. I would imagine camber kits will help the 60ft but I'd like to hear from someone who's seen real life results, wouldn't want to invest in something unnecessary.

Birdley42008

35 psi is a lot!

rota92

Camber kits aside, if your alignment sucks to begin with you're giving up time. But you've left out way too much information to think a camber kit cut that much time off. Judging from your 2.5 second previous time I'm going to venture out there and say experience had a lot to do with your improvement.

welfarepc

this.

Shongku

I know it's a little high but when I race with street tires I prefer to race with "at the lights" settings. After a few runs I switch to slicks.



I don't think it has too much to do with experience. The two separate runs were only a year apart. I've pulled 2.2 60fts on straight from the factory Integras that weren't even lowered therefore didn't have their alignment or camber affected, yet I've driven a dozen cars that couldn't do better than 2.5 on them. I noticed all the 2.5 cars had severe inner tire wear.

My only guess so far for the improvement wasn't the camber kit but more so the alignment that fixed the tow. Trying to see if someone else made tests for before and afters so I can see if a camber kit is even necessary for improving 60fts.

96 GSR-T

IMO 2.5 60's is definatley lack of experience....

I pulled 2.2-2.3's with rotted 185/65/14's on a TEG.... camber all out of wack with 30+psi in the tires not even trying.

Shongku

Well then, if that's the case it probably has more to do with tow and therefore meaning the camber doesn't really kill the 60ft.

I've been drag racing for 11 years, get 2.0s on drag radials, 1.8s on all motor slicks, and 2.2s average for normal tires. I doubt it has anything to do with experience. I was kinda looking for hard evidence to de-myth the camber theory. Although through common sense and logic it'd only make sense that OEM camber settings would result in better 60fts, I always like seeing hard evidence first.

Apprentice-X-

1/4: 13.96 @ 95mph
60ft: 1.96

24" M/T Slicks wrapped around 15x6.5 Steel Wheels (Yeah kinda heavy and wrong setup for all motor but that's all we had)

LS VTEC in 2400lb (w/ driver) EG hatch. (Si)

No camber kit, car lowered 2.5 inches.

96 GSR-T

I dont think OEM Camber settings would result in much better 60's, I am not positive but I am pretty sure the factory settings does not make the tire run flat on the pavement, especially once a car is lowered.

I got those times with 185/65/14's with 500hp because I knew to just baby the car out of the hole, I never even saw boost in 1st gear and barely saw 7psi in 2nd..... had I been a noob I would of been on the 2-step and then made a tire smoke show coming off the line for the spectators resulting in a 2.5 60'

jdm602

experience has a lot to do with it. toe is most important imo but if you have a lot of camber, thats not good and will hurt your times. about 8 months ago i pulled a 2.0 on some neogens in my ek hatch with a stock gsr and this was with no camber and no alignment.

vw16vcabby

a good alignment means a lot. probably the most important thing on the car is alignment. power isnt worth dick if you cant hook it.

the toe issue is going to effect stability going down the tack more than the 60. you would actually want a little bit of toe in. toe out makes stuff unstable at speed. to much toe in would drag the hell out of the tires-- and slow you down.

however the camber issue itself can effect the 60. when you hit, the front comes up and weight transfer to rear as it is unloading. on a rwd car-- no biggie. yet this is a double whammy for fwd as we are powering the car w/ these wheels and hoping they hook at same time. Ideally, you want as flat as a patch as possible. you get that at 0 camber. trick is 0 camber sitting still doesnt allways mean you will have 0 degrees at the launch/in motion.

if your initial suspension was so **** that you were running on a narrow contact patch like a pizza cutter then yeah--camber would help you. as obviously you want the widest area of the tire on the track at the launch.