gospeedgo1

do you have any information, experience on the ultrasonic proximity sensors?

EDIT: to add to your thread?

suspendedHatch

In several of the sites/stickies I mention that the DEI motion/proximity sucks and the AU94T is the ****. That pretty much summarizes everything you need to know.

winneth

Hi, I'm reading through to the part where there is a link to

http://causeforalarm.thecarthi...m.gif

and it says (may have to put a fuse somewhere)

Does anyone know where to put the fuse, if im putting it in the red one?

suspendedHatch

Test the wire with a voltmeter and see if it shows 12V. If it doesn't, then download the Helms and go all the way to the back and look up the under dash fuse block. Look at the options and it will tell you which fuse it corresponds to.

winneth

I found this...

https://honda-tech.com/zero...20287

But im not sure if the Red Constant 12v

http://causeforalarm.thecarthi...m.gif

Discribed as C926 Option (+B) from the first link has a fuse at all... cuz the other ones purple and white have fuses (ACC, IG2, dashlights)

So im guessing theres no fuse?

gospeedgo1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In several of the sites/stickies I mention that the DEI motion/proximity sucks and the AU94T is the ****. That pretty much summarizes everything you need to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i read that, i was referring to the type of sensor that measures air pressure difference in the car (like when someone breaks in by prying your window back and opening the window (but doesnt open the door.

chrisw85

I'm thinking about getting the Viper 5900 SST (or one of its counterparts, whichever is less expensive Python 990 or Clifford 50.5X).

There is mention that remote start alarms are 'impossible' to stealth install; isn't the remote start module seperate? I would not be needing or using the remote start feauture. I want the 5900 SST for its range, which is about double that of the 791xv from what i understand.

Also, there is mention both in the sticky and again in this thread that both the glass 506t and motion crime guard au94t in combination, would be overkill. But the 507m tilt sensor would not be overkill with the motion. So you have two sensors the au94t and the 507m tilt, and the 520t battery backup along with the alarm itself and a piezo; this would be considered a complete system.

suspendedHatch

If you don't want remote start, don't pay for it. Buy a 2 way paging alarm w/out remote start like the 5002. It has the same range as the 5900. It uses the same SST technology. If it's like the 5000 compared to the 791, then it will have an onboard shock sensor and an extra sensor port. DEI hasn't put the new manuals online and I haven't installed the new line so I'm not sure about that.

The remote start module is seperate I guess if you consider a row of eight 10 gauge wires connected to the ignition harness and a bright, flat, very non-oem looking ribbon cable SEPERATE, not to mention the large bulky module itself. You might as well put a "you are here" map of the alarm install. The module makes it necessary to connect to the Ignition harness, and within a few inches of it at that, and so by definition the alarm install is not stealth. It could only be potentially stealth if the alarm were hidden behind the cluster which is only do-able on the 92-95 Civic and the 94+ Integra. But that write-up hasn't been written yet.

Glass breakage and motion sensors are two seperate sensors designed to protect against the same thing: someone reaching in through the window. They're slightly different but their purpose is overlapping. Because of the cost/difficulty of adding extra sensors, I generally consider it ill-advised. People take this to mean that their car will blow up. No, it's just a recommendation. You're better off spending your money and effort on a tilt/motion combo, or a tilt/glass combo, then a glass/motion or a tilt/motion/glass combo.

Those ingredients you mentioned are what you need to do a stealth install, along with a shitload of split loom.

chrisw85

Thanks. The reason I asked is because on Viper's webpage, it lists the 5900 and the 5500, and the 160xvl as all having the 'SST' which is the claimed one mile range system. The 5002 and the 791xv shows the 'responder technology' which is what they call 2-way.

I'm going to install the 5900 (already ordered it) with the tilt sensor, and the crimeguard au94t, along with the battery backup and a piezo. I am not going to install the remote start module; no need for it on my '94 5spd EJ1. I'll let you know how different the 5900 is compared to the one on your page.

I'm ordering 100ft of black split loom; should be enough, no? I'm also getting a 30w soldering iron, 60/40 .031 solder, various shrink tubing, 100ft 18ga primary (i'm thinking black all throughout and I'll just keep track of the traces for the extensions), 22ga wire for led/motion extension, anything else you recommend? I shouldn't need any bosch relays unless I had aftermarket power door lock actuator?

I was just reading that tinted windows and the glass sensor cancel each other out; the glass isn't allowed to 'break' for the sensor to hear it.

One last question, I have the factory honda alarm/remote unlock unit still under the seat. When I bought my car it didn't come with the remotes, and I assume the system has been disabled because it doesn't do anything even when I disconnect the battery when working on the car. Should I take it completely out? I think I could make the Viper install much cleaner if I took out the factory alarm; I'd think it just goes in with a couple inline harnesses which shouldn't be too hard to back-trace.

Now i just gotta wait for it all to ship in. Heh, and I won't forget the 12 pack of brewskies along with the install.

suspendedHatch

30w soldering iron isn't going to cut it. It's going to be cold solder city. Especially the 10 gauge wires. It just isn't going to happen. Get yourself a 100/140 watt gun style soldering iron. Radio Shack, Craftsman, and Weller are all good and cheap at the same time. Given the choice between a underpowered soldering iron and crimping using the Channel Lock 909s, I'd go for crimping every day of the week.

Remove the factory alarm if you want.

You probably want at least two diameters of split loom. I don't even bother to check the sizes. I get the small size which is the diameter of my first finger, and the medium size which is the diameter of my thumb. I get about 12 feet of each when I run out, and I can probably do 5-6 cars with that much. It kind of depends. On some installs I barely use any. On others I have wires criss crossing the engine bay that need to be loomed, etc.

I don't know about the tint theory but I seriously doubt it. When you wrap your keys on a tinted window, it sets the sensor off. It seems like breaking it will do the same thing. The sensor doesn't care how messy the end result is. Not to mention that the sensor has adjustable sensitivity. I would crank it up to the point that it falses, then turn it back just a hair.

I guess you're right about the SST technology. I'm pretty disappointed. Good thing I went with the 350hv instead of waiting for the 5002.

pepebuho

Hi
How do I program the remote of a Viper 5002?
The procedure in the Inst. Manual seems not to work.
I can put and take out the alarm from Valet mode, and I can set it to the setup menus.
But even if I follow the written procedure on the Installation manual, (p. 33 and on.) ) do not get the LED flashes nor the siren chirp confirming the Channel.

Maybe I am not clear on the concept of how to program the remote. Or maybe I did something to the Antenna or the antenna wire.

I read the transmitter was supposed to be factory-matched but in my case it has not been thus.

JP

suspendedHatch

If the transmitter doesn't work right out of the alarm box, then check your antenna and the alarm's ground wire.

This should have been a new topic.

lyricsborn

suspendedhatch - do you know anything about the au94tm proximity sensor? i guess it replaced the au94t.

suspendedHatch

That's the one I've been talking about all this time. For some reason I've always omitted the "m".

lyricsborn

so there's no difference between the two?

tha_badguy

would switchin to the newer model be an upgrade?

lyricsborn

the au94tm is half the price. i just wanted to know if he's had experience with both.

pepebuho

I got the AU94T

How do I position the sensor? And more specifically, is it ok if I put it upside down?

My car has a console between the two front seats and I was planning to tape it inside the console (the console is plastic). Then it would be kind of upside down (the clear window withe adjusting screws pointing towards the floor). Will it work properly like that or do I have to look for another place where it will be pointing upwards?

Thanks

suspendedHatch

They stopped making/selling the first pic long ago. I've never tried it, but I'm willing to bet it sucks.

It will not work upside down. You should follow the directions included with the sensor or take a look at the site in my sig.

chrisw85

On Crutchfield, its still listed as AU94T, with no 'M' moniker on the webpage. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8...u94tm

I hope I got the newer one... Just ordered one a couple days ago. If the clear one is the older one then Crutchfield is really behind on their pics

fcm

Although Hatch is correct that it will not work upside down, where you are putting it, in fact I would be willing to bet that unless the adjustment is all the way off it would false the alarm constantly, but mounting the sensor "upside down" on the roof, under the headliner works very well, much more uniform coverage, and outside zone [warn a way] can "look" below bottom of windows. 94

Phil DeVtec

Hands down the best write-up I've ever read on H-T.

EBPIX

Sorry guys im new to electronics and such. The relays and kill switches look simple. However I am having trouble grasping the info about diodes.

I have red through the How to and the Comments, doesn't tell me where is the ideal spot for a tilt sensor...or can that be put anywhere?

Only one diode is needed per sensor? How do you know which wire it goes on?

Diodes just make it easier for the LED to tell which zone is being tampered with? That's the understanding I came up with by reading the posts about diodes...

Read somewhere on here that it would be good to use a diode on the fuel kill switch? Which way would the diode connect?

Diodes are needed for the Door triggers? Are they saying the door trigger input from the door wiring to the brain?

Diodes are always faced with the striped side away from current it wants to go (say striped side on left but current runs right)?

Basically you guys are putting diodes on the pieces that will only need to send info but not receive (tilt sensor, glass sensor). Which other pieces will I need a diode be it DEI or OEM setup? Hood Pin, Trunk Trigger, Door Trigger, anything else?

Door trigger is when the doors are triggered by trying to open correct? Door lock/unlock is for unlocking the doors so will need feedback from both ways? So a diode is only needed for the trigger to send the info to the brain which does not need info send back?

Does it matter where I place the diode? For example, I use a diode for the tilt sensor, I place it closest to the sensor, closest to the brain, in the middle or it doesn't matter?

There are more than 1 door trigger (-) on newer cars? Can there be (+) door triggers? If a car had 3 door triggers that would mean one trigger on each door correct?

Is it necessary to use diodes? What if I don't use it?

Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

chrisw85

As for the tilt sensor, mount it no more than 45 degrees relative to the floorboard; i'm just going to find a nice flat, solid spot near where im mounting the brain, and i'm going to orient it length-wise front-to-rear of car. The DEI 507m is nice because it remembers what posistion it is in when the alarm is armed, so if you live on hills or park in a driveway, no probs.

suspendedHatch

fcm you blow my mind. I'm going to have to try that someday.

Neither of my motion sensors false unless it's a cat jumping inside my car or someone parked next to me at the mall (which just triggers the warn).

chrisw85, don't sweat it man. I've been ordering those sensors from Crutchfield for about 4 years now. They don't make or sell the old version anymore.

EBPIX

Tilt sensor can go basically anywhere. It has to be mounted flat. Just follow the instructions that come with it.

A diode is a one way valve for electricity used to isolate two circuits that need to also be connected.

First you have to tell us what sensors you are hooking up to your alarm. But in general, no, you don't have to isolate sensor trigger wires that have been spliced together.

"Diodes just make it easier for the LED to tell which zone is being tampered with? That's the understanding I came up with by reading the posts about diodes..."

No... Not sure where you're getting this. Here's an example of when you need diodes. On a 01+ Civic 4 door, if you're driving with a door open, the cluster will tell you exactly which door is open. Now if you hook all the door triggers up to one wire for the alarm, all four lights are going to come on at once on the cluster if any door is open. Now imagine you hook up a shock sensor to the door trigger wire. Now every time the shock sensor (which is hooked up constant on DEI alarms) is triggered, your cluster light will flash saying a door is open!

"Read somewhere on here that it would be good to use a diode on the fuel kill switch?"

Where did you read that? I guess you're referring to spike suppression.

"Diodes are needed for the Door triggers? Are they saying the door trigger input from the door wiring to the brain?"

Diodes are not needed for door triggers on any Honda/Acuras older than 2001.

"Diodes are always faced with the striped side away from current it wants to go (say striped side on left but current runs right)?"

Electricity doesn't know left from right. It only knows positive from negative. Diodes are hooked up with the striped side being negative and the solid side being positive, EXCEPT when used as spike suppression on a relay.

Door trigger and door lock/unlock have absolutely nothing to do with one another.

"There are more than 1 door trigger (-) on newer cars?"

Be more specific. What cars? There's thoasands on top of thoasands of "newer cars".

"Can there be (+) door triggers?"

Only on Fords.

Do you know what a door trigger is? Open your door and find the little button. Put your dome light in the center or on "door". Push the little button, the dome light goes out.

At this point I'm asking myself why I'm not getting paid right now.