just_bn_me83

Really? Do the research, one of the best sounding speakers by consumer reviews for the money. I always invite anyone who wants to hear what sound quality is to sit in my car and be the judge. Infinity Kappa all around. crystal sound. Edzy, you have such strong opinions...experience to back it up? I have installed quite a few sets of Infinity speakers in customers cars and my own...haven't heard a single complaint yet. I have been selling car audio for quite some time and out of all the hundreds of brands Infinity is definitley in the top 10.
afterthought...
Mercedes and BMW and a number of other Luxury Euro cars have Harman Kardon systems as the premium option...guess who Infinity is made by? Think they would bother putting the speaker in a luxury car if it didn't sound good, bc it's pretty much the same speaker with a different name.

edzy

You have zero idea what "sq" really is.

If you did, you wouldn't have rear speakers. What are you using for processing? What are your time alignment settings looking like? What are your infinity's crossed at? What's the slope?

You think stock systems in those euro cars cater to audiophiles? They just stuff a bunch of speakers in every crevice...

edzy

Here, you don't need to take my word for it..

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...iscussion.html

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...nent-sets.html

just_bn_me83

Past cars I have had have had more competition style setups that require all that you are talking about. My current personal setup is simple (pioneer DEH-6000UB, HP filters set at 80hz, very little eq all below flat line, powered off Orion XTR 500.4, Monster 6ch rcas) as is most persons... do you know how many HU's actually come with Time Alignment settings, decent processing, slope settings, and decent cross overs? A handfull. For what this thread purpose is, "a civc, doesn't need nothing crazy" Infinty is a good OPTION. If the discussion was about having the best SQ and spending tons of money, your input would be usefull and not a lame attempt to prove whatever it is you think you need to prove by being a dick.

just_bn_me83

Whats your current setup, alignment settings, slopes, HU, power? Let me guess Audiopipe? Factory deck, jensen 200 watt amp, line converters. troll for an arguement somewhere else or give an opion without being a dick to other members.

BossUp

Go with nice components and a decent 12. I worked at audio shop for about 2 years.. do something like a w3 with the correct power, and amp your components, Focal, digital deign, hertz all decent. Just don;t go cheap when it comes to amp's. You don't want to spend 1000 on speakers and have them not be at full potential because you went out and got some junk sony xplode amp

edzy

um..

Pioneer z130bt
Audison Bit.1
B&C 10NDL64
Audax PR170M0
B&C DE500 horns/modded ID full horn bodies
3 JL audio hd 600/4's
18" aa smd
Sundown Audio 4500d.

No one is trolling. YOU'RE giving bad advice.

joeshmo

I second the kappas. Sound good, highs aren't harsh (but they are crisp, off axis tweeters), plenty of midbass. No complaints.

salaamq

Just try for a known brand. Infinity, Alpine, JBL, JL, Polk, Rockford, etc etc
Only you have to do it like this

Lambo123

Since my car is gutted with a straight 3" exhaust it's pretty loud. That being said my head unit is an Alpine CDA-103BT with an Alpine Power Pack (KTP-445 45x4rms). Sub is a self-powered Sound Ordnance BT-8 located behind the passenger seat because it didn't fit under it. My goal was to have a nice rounded out system that weighs very little. Probably around 25 lbs. for the whole system. The whole setup sounds great imo even over the extremely loud exhaust. However in my opinion Alpine (at least their head units) have gone down in quality. I recommend Pioneer or Kenwood. I'm running Boston Acoustics SR-65's 6.5" in the front doors (no rears) which they don't sell anymore but sound great after i used speaker baffles to make a nice seal around the mounting area. I have heard that the Kappa's or Focal's sound great with nice tight bass if you have the coin but have not heard them in person.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'll tell ya something from my experience. The head unit is a damn important place to start. I do like alpine, but honestly anything with a lot of options is good. You won't be using the amp from the head unit. Next you should work on tweeters, going from high to low. It's really preference. Some people like their $40 Sony tweets, some like the $250 tweeters by company "x" or whomever. I personally h e had great experience with $20 no name tweeters. They put out my desired sound pitches and have a good amour of power. Just make sure you run some sort of inline high pass filter. I forget the word for em. Then you'll want some door speakers. Probably 5 1/4 or like 6 1/2. Something like that. What ever is factory, just upgraded. Same thing here, low end around $60 while the top is well over $500. I've got some old speakers you wouldn't know from over seas at a BX back in the day. Make sure the range of sound output is good and then get rear speakers. Most likely 6x9 or 6x8, whatever factory is again. I have kenwoods and honestly they sound amazing. But they are pretty standard speakers. You can always go higher end. Get a 4 ch amp with a high pass filter again and you'll want to dial it to the lowest range those speakers are designed to handle. That way your bass doesn't destroy your miss and highs. Make sure the range for the 6x9 is different then the door component speakers. They are intended to hot lower ranges. Next you have your woofers. Here is one place where you can save some money. In reality, as long as you watch how much power you supply a sub should never "blow" during daily use. I use 2 15" '5000 watt' subwoofers. They aren't actually 5000w mind you. I have a 5000 watt mono block D an a ported box. You're going to need to tune your box for the speakers. Different subs play at different Hz and that is important. Always stay on the safe end with your amp settings here. I forgot to mention, my subs were 50$ a piece, but that amp cost...well...too much. The subs are LOUD. I mean, in my hatch you can feel your nose hairs move. Your hair stands on end. It can be heard 50m away EASILY. It shakes the car. The same subs come in 12's and put out similar power. Subs are really the only place where I don't reccomend dishing out the big bucks. Spend your money on a good head unit for tuning and your amps. You'll also want to upgrade your alternator if you plan on running large loads. Get a capacitor too if you wanna play music while your car is off. You may want to relocate the battery or even run a second one if you go hard with the subwoofer set up.

If you are just wanting somethig loud to show off, dont waste your money on high end equipment. Your better off just turning the volume up and being a douche. If you want a good listening experience and the ability to feel every note, then I wrote some decent stuff in there.