donz

I have been speaking with FCM and he has been helping me but I still can't get the thing to work. To make this as clear as possible I'll list the things I have connected, and see if anyone can help. also i know starters make things easier for theives, but it gets -40 celcius here.
I'll post the connector wire, and then what I connected it to (97 honda civic)

Connector 1
Red +12 V constant --> white +12v ign
grn/wht +pking light out --> spade connector to fuse box
red/wht +12v constant --> white +12V ign ( second spot ong same wire as above) head unit is also connected here (FCM disapprove so fix soon)
red/wht (second wire) --> goes to second relay
WHT accessory --> WHT/BLK Accessory ign
pur pre wired--> goes to starter kill relay
YEL pre wired --> goes to the starter kill relay
GRN ign --> BLK/yel Ignition
blk ground --> good chasis ground also ground to head unit

Starter kill relay
from relay yel/blk --> starter side BLK/WHT
from relay yel --> key side blk/wht

Second relay (does 97 civic have 2nd ign or 2nd acc?? helms says 2nd ign, bulldog wiring diagram says it has 2nd acc)
pur pigtail --> GRN of connector 2 (for 2nd ign?)
blu pig tail --> YEL ignition 2?

Connector 2
grn/wht - pking light --> n/a
blk status wire out --> n/a
grn 2nd ign --> pur of second relay
wht/blk 2nd acc --> nothing?
red/blk 2nd starter--> nothing

connector 3
lt blue parking brake in--> at parking break switch
gry/blk hood pin --> hood pin
lt blu/wht brake --> brake switch grn/wht
pur/blk trunk pin--> blu/blk under kick panel
red/wht door trigger --> ltgrn/blk a piller along wind shield
yel/blk tach input --> test connector by strut tower

connector 4
blu unlock --> driver side kp
blu/blk --> dskp

All other connectors just plug in with supplied stuff.
Problem

1)the compustar does not want to power up think. the first time I installed, it had chirpped lightly once or twice, has not done that since. I don't know if it has power or not.
2) my head unit is also not working. it has constant 12v because the clock is still on, but does not power up. (uses the same wire as alarm for constant, I think, will varify in morning)
3) everything else works fine! including all other electronics
4) new fuse for under dash to radio.
5) rotated the 7.5 A fuse between interior lights and radio in underhood box, interior lights ok, so fuse is good. (I only had the small 10A so I had to improvise on test)
I don't have a voltmeter but considering buying one tommorow.

Please help, i already drove 6 hours with no radio, and just my girlfriend, please help me out!

I will also be trying to hide the brain, as the previous alarm which was installed at futureshop/bestbuy was very poorly hidden, it blocked my access to the fuse box!!! I'll fix the head unit wiring soon, the previous owner felt the need to hack up the harness so he could save $10 on an wiring kit!

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

well you had the compustar man himself helping you. I would follow his advice pertty closely. We are just going to end up telling you the same thing. I bet he also told you that you need a mulit meter too. Get one first and then post back and we can trace the problem

donz

ok, got a multimeter,

did the following tests, the negative probe is in the ground of the connector 1
red 12 v constant, good

with car on,
red 12v good
grn/wht nothing
red/Wht Good
WHT good
PUR good
YEL nothing
GRN good
BLK ground good, by assumption

Also when I plug connector 1 back into the brain I get a quiet chirp.
I noticed that whn the connector is plugged in half way, the siren goes off. i beleive that this occurs when the constant wires are touching the contacts while the others are not. The siren is also very feignt, barely louder than the engine.
What do you guys think is the problem, please help if you can, I am pretty much out if ideas.

donz

ok, so the car is completely working now. I'm going to finish the post so whoever may search and find the complete story.

ok so the above wiring is correct.

After wiring, you must program the remote!!!
if you do not program the remote, the alarm will appear doa. You may get a feignt, or soft siren sound when you plug in connector 1 half way so that the 12v constant is touching. The alarm will not chirp when tach programing, and will not flash the led.

To program the remote.
switch the key between I and II on your ignition 5 times. on the 5th time leave it on I. do this in less than 5 seconds.
I beleive this is correct, FCM told me that it is

"Switch ign. between run and acc. 5 times within 7 sec.
Start in off, then go to run, then back to acc. then back to run. leave it in run on the 5th time, press button I, you may have to press button I more then one time.
Also, obviously you can't go too slow to do it within 7 sec., but you can't go too fast either, try to do one cycle per sec., it should take about 5 sec., then press button I repeatedly, the park lights will flash one time."

Try this a couple of times, it maybe 5 seconds, or it may be 7 seconds, I have even read 3 seconds, but I am pretty sure it is not 3 seconds. It is not hard, just tricky.

Ok tach sensing, make sure both dip switches in side the little pannel are in the up position. Then press the button, shouldtake 1 or 2 seconds before you hear a beep.
1 chirps is good, 2 chirps means that your switches are in wrong spot, 3 chirps means you have wrong RPM wire.

So there you go, all you need to know. Find your car wiring diagram in the faq, double check these as they are not always right. use helms if you have it.
after that, everything should be good for you! multimeter is your friend!