payton012311si

hey guys i am new to Honda Tech i have bought many parts from Honda tech Market place but am new to the site as a builder/spectator.

I am Currently Building my First Motor but before you guys begin your thoughts this is no way shape or form my First experience with Honda's or B Series motors.

My Layout So Far-
B18b Block with Wiseco Pistons 11:5:1
H Beam Eagle Rods with ARP Rod Bolts
Stock Crank- Possibly looking for a different one need help as far as choices and which one to go for Reliability
ARP Head Studs
LSV Kit
GSR Head Ported
ITR cams
Aem True Time Cam gears
Im basicaly posting a build thread but bare with me due to this being my first forum. I would appreciate some feedback as well as if im going the right route and some further stuff i should do to my build thanks guys hope to hear some good feedback ill be posting pics as the build continues.

ef2_civic

iTrader: (1)

I would upgrade the valve terrain unless u were already and go with some bigger cams. Itr won't get u that number goal u planning to reach

Intake manifold? Injectors? Regular fuel? E85? Or race gas?

93egSLEEPER

Use the stock crank, no need for anything else with this build.
ITR cams with that compression are going to be the first set back to reaching your power goals.
You will also want to look into a different intake manifold.
Start by reading in here for ideas of what you will be getting into to reach your power goals
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/official-all-motor-dyno-thread-1583606/

Also remember, dyno numbers are just numbers. A dyno is a tuning tool. It may not reflect 100% accurately the performance of your motor. Every dyno is different.

whitesihatch

I suggest Tuner 2's for this build maybe something bigger, depending on what kind of gearing you have.

Also what intake manifold are you planning to run?

jaydmdude

What are your reasons behind choosing a cam based on gearing? Just trying to see your thought process on this. Would your choice differ if it is say a gsr trans with a 4.9 final drive to a b16 trans with a 4.9 final drive?

Op, what are your im/header choices for your build. I'd recommend running some bigger cams than itr but if that's what your budget allow then that'll be fine as well. The whole package must work well together.

whitesihatch

I say this because When he shifts to second depending on what gearing he has, he will already be in power. This is the same case with my car, my vtec is set pretty high due to lack of compression, but with the 4.9 fd and hybrid gearset when I shift to second Im at 6200 rpms.

I know it was a bit off the wall of a statement, but just giving the Op options.

93egSLEEPER

4.9 for daily though? :/
4.7 is pushing it enough IMO

OneBadTurboCRV

This is DEFINITELY only your opinion. The few hundred RPM difference isn't that big of a deal when cruising. On a N/A setup I wouldn't hesitate putting the biggest final drive I could in a transmission depending on the overall use. For a forced induction car it may a complete spin fest though and tire size comes into play in any setup.

If a car is going to have a B16 in it the first thing it gets is a final drive swap if I get my hands on the car haha.

payton012311si

sorry guys for the late respond, I am going to be running a B16 LSD trans and as far as intake manifold i was thinking the new Skunk2 Ultra-? but for exhaust i am getting a yonaka catback and plm tri y for the motor as well. For cams you guys suggested aftermarket now is there nice ones that wont destroy stock valve train? and for my setup now i was wondering if you guys had a estimate on the HP i would be making. thank you guys lovin the feedback i will be posting pictures tonight.

payton012311si

i know as far as my stock crank i will only be able to go up to 7800 RPM. but forgot to mention as well i have the TOP fuel Air 1000 air intake for the setup and a P61 ecu that is already chipped.

payton012311si

this is the header guys

93egSLEEPER

Another thing to consider is redline. He won't wanna be shifting into 5th if this is a car he drags.
Trust me I'm all for short gears, but there is a line that should be drawn on DD cars in some cases.
Just my opinion, OP can take it FWIW

Stock crank does not have an RPM limit per se OP. MANY guys take the 89mm crank up to 9k without issue. Get ARP rod bolts and if you have the cash balance the rotating assembly.

payton012311si

and injectors i have two sets i have RC 370s and some other ones and the car would always be running on 92 octane pump gas.

payton012311si

I do have ARP Rod bolts and will be getting ACL Rod bearings and And which rings should i be using for a stock 81mm bore B18b with 11:5:1 Wiseco pistons i do believe i have to contact Wiseco and get the rings from them.

payton012311si

as well as my Eagle H beam rods. This will be my Daily Driver reasoning for building this motor was due to finding metal shavings in my oil pan on my B16a that is in my hatch now still driving it but believe i have the beginning stage of what could Be KNOCK KNOCK JOKES but this build will be much more powerful then my b16 i hope.

blackeg

your stock crank can go over 10,000rpm. maybe that was the stock ls rod bolts you were hearing about. that wont be an issue if you are using eagle rods which utilize arp bolts

unless you plan on spraying nitrous there is really not reason in my opinion to use eagles and wiseco's. stock rods with arp replacement studs and some cast pr3 or itr replica pistons from nippon/rsmachines etc will do more than fine. they will also allow you to run tighter piston to wall which will increase the longevity of the engine. it will also probably save you like 500 dollars which you can put toward say neptune or hondata rather than a chip from something like crome (not there is anything inherently wrong with crome)

i also think you are getting good feed back about using the itr cams not being the best choice. you might make 190 and some good tq with them but are unlikely to hit 200.

a solid and cost effective valvetrain setup would be supertech springs and the k20 rsx retainers. i guess that depends on the cam you settle on though. keep on it, you will tweak your setup a bit and in the end be more than happy

payton012311si

oh wow i would be happy with 190hp for sure! i just want reliability over anything and the head had came with itr cams so im just looking to make this a strong yet reliable motor due to having to drive 48 miles round trip to work and back. but i thank you for your information and feedback. If im not mistaken isnt the P61 ECU very rare? due to making only 2,000 of them?

payton012311si

forgot to add will be getting GSR crank girdle for safe ensuring.

payton012311si

and to reply to your comment about the stock crank being able to go up to 10,00 RPM i was informed and did some research with that being said your stock ls crank will need to be balanced in order to spin any faster then 7,800 RPM on the regular correct me if im wrong just was word of mouth.

OneBadTurboCRV

I think you are talking the idea of reliability way too far. The stock 89mm crank gets spun to 10k+ rpm all the time without issue in MANY builds. If you want to be extra cautious then get the entire rotating assembly balanced. Most of the time they don't need anything, but it doesn't hurt to check. These are zero balance engines afterall and aftermarket parts come balanced with that in mind.

You don't need a girdle in the slightest. If you do use one then you will need to possibly get a line bore, but at the minimum it needs to be checked. For your rpm limitations and compression ITR cams will barely work. Any time you introduce forged pistons to an engine you trade strength for longevity. Another part of this build that could bite you in the *** is going LS/VTEC in the first place. Oil feed lines have been known to sheer in some cases. You better by a quality kit that uses good stuff and not cheap out here in the slightest.

You will probably want the Pro intake over the Ultra as well. Again, you somewhat silly rev limit is hurting you here yet again. You need to focus on what it is exactly that you want from this engine and select the parts accordingly. The Tri-Y wouldn't be recommended at all. You would be much better served by the Toda replica header instead or even the SMSP.

Finally, get the idea of running a stock ECU out of your head right now. You are beyond that already especially after you switch injectors.

whitesihatch

A lot of wisdom here. I agree with the others get a itr cast piston, use the money elsewhere. I believe 190 is easily attainable with the right cam and induction. Go with neptune as fsr as tuning, its cheap and has a lot of great capabilities.

blackeg

which is why ive been taking an ls crank to 9000+ rpm for 8 years now in a 400-500 hp turbo motor...

you are doing the right thing here by posting and asking questions, as i hope our answers help put some truth to some of the word of mouth information you are getting .


lsvtec oil fittings can shear off it happened to me on the dyno actually. that said you want to find some stainless fittings, dont use brass. the port on the back of the block where the stock pressure sensor goes is 1/8 bspt, not 1/8npt like they have at home depot. the bspt british standard pipe thread is non tapered. if you overtorque into that hole in the block its possible to crack it. i think 12 or 13 ftlbs is the spec i wouldnt go over that.


the toda replica header seems to get the job done really well, and would be my recommendation if you dont have a header already.

payton012311si

wow guys great info coming in now for the stock ecu question i am not going to be running the 370s i will just run my stock b16 injectors for right now and the skunk2 ultra is just me trying to differ from peoples choices wanted to be unique but if its worth the bang for the buck i will take it for what it is as it would save me more money about 200$. Now BlackTeg where can i get these fittings i do have a golden eagle lsv kit but you have sorta of dissembled my confidence in that kit so i would like to try and get more info on running the right steal braided line and fitting im assuming EARLS has these fitting? i will be looking into getting a skunk2 valve train with supertech stuff as well and bigger cams. this setup currently is just what i have for right now, im glad to know that i wont have to do any more internal work as far as crank so i will be staying the ls crank.

payton012311si

i bought this setup a while back for 750$ with everything i have posted.

payton012311si

does anybody know where to get the toda header?