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I have no clue about California's emissions testing or laws but it seems like a catchcan would be an automatic fail being that they vent to the atmosphere.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

That's on the list, but it's a two minute job to cap off the fittings.

Caoboy

I'm assuming you don't have a pcv valve anymore, but you'll need it.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I do.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

Hey Adam, is this project still alive? Did you take it to BAR inspection?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Hi Chris,

Engine is still going strong despite living out its last couple of years on California gas. I never got it BAR'd or even registered, still rolling around with a (current until 2019) FL plate on it actually.

I recently picked up a PHK ecu and have been going through getting it ready to pass emissions. That includes going through and addressing codes and swapping some hardware:

- Front HO2S heater (done)
- Rear HO2S circuit & heater (mostly done)
- EVAP purge solenoid (need swap manifold to newer P75 with the valve on top and plug in --> done)
- Reinstall stock injectors (already did it to try driving around on PHK ECU, no issues)
- Reinstall factory knock sensor (straight swap for the Bosch senor and plug in, not expecting any issues there)

Then I need to do a drive cycle and get the thing tested. I'm not planning on going to the BAR as getting hassled for swaps isn't a big thing in my area. Just going to go to the smog shop around the corner from my work, as long as the thing passes visual and plug-in I'm good to go. There's no tailpipe for a 2000 car. I went through the whole thought process of jumping through BAR hoops vs. "getting a guy" vs. just getting the thing to pass a regular inspection and decided that, for the amount of hassle and money that the other methods require, this is the best route. It's also easier to revert back to my "tuned" state the next day after I pass.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

From what I understand you would need to use the p75 ecu as the b20 is classified as a replacement for the b18b1 and you would need to use all b18 emission controls including the ecu.

I don't know how much of a hassle it is but it's worse when you get tagged for failing smog due to an "incorrect"engine being installed and wasting the money and still needing to go to BAR. Luckily though you still have your Florida plates.

​​​​​​​

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I need to get the thing registered so I can get a CA license and get on with my life. I’m currently voting from my parents’ address along with a bunch of other hassles that come along with not being a real California resident. It just came down to how cheap it was to renew in Florida and kick the van down the road for another year or two, combined with the fact that the car spends most of its time in airport parking from February through September.

I got the PHK ecu because it was easier to find, cheaper, and I don’t have to deal with the immobilizer. If it comes to the point that I need to switch to a P75 I’ll also be swapping cats and a bunch of other crap too. Fact is, the smog shops in my area don’t care that much and worst case they might turn me away, but they’re not going to flag me and send me to the ref if the thing is capable of passing a smog check. Obd2 of this vintage doesn’t report vin or cal code or anything of that sort, and they’re not going to pull the kick panel and look at the ecu if they don’t need to. So long as the available readiness monitors are the same as the original car (they are) and are set, the thing has a cat and is not highly modified, it’s passing. If I show up with a big shiny intake & header, a half *** cat, and the thing is loping from giant cams, they’ll just refuse to test it t and send me on my way.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

Hey Adam, just checking in for that near 2 year update. What are the plans and how has the car been running? Did you ever end up using the PHK ecu or are you obd1 still?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I guess it has been a couple of years lol.

No real updates. I got it to the point where I was able to pass a plug in check but not visual, and found a shop that didn't care about going over the visual too closely as long as everything was there. So I have a California registered car now, and have since switched everything back to obd1.

The engine ran a bit lean at really light load with the PHK ecu... I suspect that the stock CRV injectors, despite also being 240cc, have drastically different flow at low pulsewitdh than the typical b-series injectors do. It would explain why everything was fine at normal load but would lean out at light cruise. I might try swapping over the CRV injectors at some point to see if that was the issue, but I may need the P75 ecu in the end.

I also may or may not have made a black box that pretended to be my rear oxygen sensor and front oxygen sensor heater so I could run off of the PLX simulated narrowband signal... You know, for the sake of science
The ecu had no complaints and I was able to drive it around and get all monitors set.

Currently, I'm thinking about building a new engine loom. Started on the design a couple of days ago. Trying to make it so I can swap ecu ends via a cannon connector so I don't have to use a jumper harness, but the obd2b ecu-a connector is on the chassis side of the loom and that is giving me a bit of trouble design-wise.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

I mistakenly got an automatic obd2 p3f and didn't know it would cause limp mode. I ended up having to get a jumper harness and found a chipped p72 locally to get my sedan running right. I also wondered about needing to use the crv injectors with the ecu but unless I find a manual then I'll probably try to find an obd2b p75 with matching key. Since I have a 99 and the 99 Integra is obd2a I'm m not sure what the ref will require since I'm pretty sure jumper harnesses aren't allowed.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

From the comments I’ve seen, the jumper harness is on a case-by-case basis. There is no requirement in the laws stating that you must use the original wiring, and if you think about it that’s not even possible in cases where someone might swap an engine into a different manufacturer’s chassis or something. The requirement is that the emissions equipment must be of the same year or newer, and brought over in its entirety. Some refs appear to be more picky than others, and unfortunately you’re really at your ref’s mercy. If all of the sensors and hardware are fully functioning, you really should be able to pass with any loom as long as it’s not a hacked together nightmare. I have a feeling that’s really why some of the refs are failing people there.

That being said, two things. Why not get an ‘00/‘01 P75? An obd2a ecu won’t have the correct evap stuff for your chassis and is more likely to get you flagged because of it. Also, why not have the immobilizer removed from the ecu instead of swapping in the whole system? I would be shocked if the ref actually looks under the lid of the ecu. Might be worth talking over.

Caoboy

Why are you making this difficult?

You have an 99 Integra.

Take the longblock out, put the B18 accessories onto the B20 longblock, make sure all emissions components and sensors are there, go to the referee.

You have no need to change the ECU or use a jumper harness. It's literally a replacement of the block and head.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I thought his was in a Civic this whole time. Yeah, that's pretty much all there should be to do... swap in the long block and go.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

My plan was to find the 00/01 P75 but it's a lot more difficult than I thought. I wanted to keep the OEM immobilizer intact if I did though because I'm not interested in having to buy another part and pay someone to install it just to clear the CEL on a stock obd2 ecu. That's why I just went for the crv ecu but there was only an automatic available at the time and I didn't know you couldn't 'fix' it like an obd1 ecu. So basically for the cost of the IMMO defeat I got a jumper harness on Amazon to use my p72.
Thanks for your input but I've never owned a 99 Integra. Mine is a 94 and my civic sedan is a 99.

Sorry about your thread Adam.

Caoboy

Crap, I misread then.

Basically yes, you need to have everything from a 99 Integra.

As far as obd conversions, whatever the integra is, is what you need to be. That means you either swap dash harnesses or you run a jumper. I know jumpers can be used, I know people who have used them to pass referee. Call around to different stations and find one that doesn't worry about it. They shouldn't. Worst case is you go old school and rewire your plugs.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Long overdue updates. I've been busy on this for the last year or so. Got tired of the constant electrical gremlins. The harness that was in the car was cobbled together on a shoestring way back when I built the engine. So summer 2019, I had a year before smog was due again. I wanted to play with ethanol since I was driving past stations every day, and wanted to have options like COP down the road. Wires were tired, contacts loose, and connector shells were tired and worn out. Under the dash was a cobbled together mess from adding and removing other things over the years:




So I did what any masochist would do. I started over. From scratch. I opened up Excel and got to work. Spent all of my "airplane free time" mapping out everything I had, everything I wanted, and learning the part numbers of all of the connectors and hardware I wanted to use. New wire, new connectors, new everything. Not one drop of solder to be used, except for the shield drains on the distributor signal wires.

Made a design on the car, using rope to map out the routing. Fun fact, this method is still in use in industry:





That told me how much of each color wire I needed. Decided to use mostly 20awg TXL because it was easily available in all of the color combos I wanted 22awg would have been plenty and made the harness a bit smaller. Also I'll never use anything but spec-55 again. Teflon sheathing is just so much nicer to work with:



Got warmed up building some subharnesses and such - there's a mistake on the IAT one:



Ignition Coil subharness build process:









Then right about there I got tired of my shitty old Formica workbench top and got myself an upgrade, then got super organized - I can't understate the necessity for a project like this (my cabinet still sucks but it's still upright so it stays):






More to come...

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

ECU (cabin) loom progress....

Getting all the wires cut and making splices, then organizing everything into baggies:


OBD1 Cabin Harness all laid out, branched and bundled:


Shrink Applied, waiting on some parts to arrive:


Note - 20AWG TXL is definitely the upper limit of what the JAE IL-AG5 connectors (green) will take. The contacts themselves were fine but getting them into the connector shells was an exercise in patience. 20AWG Spec 55 wire has a thinner Teflon jacket that is easier to use, 22AWG would have been even better.


Shiny parts showed up - buy lots of extra contact removal tools. They are cheap and there's a learning curve to using them without breaking them or messing up the connector shell. I hadn't used these type of connectors since college so it took me a few to get back in the swing of things. You must read the data sheet for the connectors or you might risk ruining one:


Excited about this sensor. Bosch PST-F 1 combined pressure/temp to replace the oil pressure switch on the back of the block. The temperature curve is the same as the typical Bosch sensors in the SManager (and other ECU) dropdowns so I don't have to characterize it myself. Also not cheap but I don't have to rig up a janky tee to run both:



OBD1 ECU loom all finished up. The extra connectors allow me to access some extra stuff -

- AUX0 gets me to thinks like the knock sensor and analog inputs on the ecu side (ELD, EGRL, VTP, 5V, 12V, GND, etc)
- COP will plug straight in to a HondaRulez Mini COP if/when I go that route.
- Lambda is the from the wideband; Plugs into the back of my PLX SM-AFR
- CAN has 12v, GND, and a twisted pair of of wires headed to the engine bay if I ever want to add CANbus devices to the engine.
- AUX1 plugs into the S300 analog inputs on the board. Heads out to the engine bay to the ethanol sensor, Oil pressure/temp sensor, and a plug with 5v/GND and 4 analog inputs for extra logging.



All of the subharnesses/pluggable stuff I wanted to build for now. Left to right -

- C101 cross dash jumper:
- OBD1 ECU loom with S300 analog harness
- Coil Loom for engine side
- Injector loom for EV6 injectors
- Pluggable IAT - I can swap for different manifolds/sensors or to run it in the intake tube
- Pluggable purge solenoid, same idea as the IAT
- Pluggable alternator; I doubt I'll need to run an OBD1 alternator but it makes the harness more flexible.



Next up, engine loom!

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I am. It's all ready to go. I made my Ref appointment last week, unfortunately it's not until Dec16th. They start with a phone screening. I know they will fail me for my cat but I'm hoping that they don't mind the ITR header on there. I'll have to weld up whatever cat they require me to run but I don't want to do it twice if the don't like the header either.

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

It has to be the b18b1 cat but I'm curious if they'll fail the Z2 since it is the higher compression b20.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Well it HAS to be the high comp B20 since my car is a 2000, so the only years available to me are 2000/2001. There is no B20B variant that I can run.

From the information I've already gathered, it's really up to the ref you get... but going in with part numbers ready and saying "this cat is on the list, is it okay to go with this?" is many times better than making him/her look it up. Big thing again is that I want to see if the header slips by since I'll have to run a different front flange if they require a stock B18B manifold.

Looking at the most current converter database info, there is a 2.25" catalyst that I can use. Unfortunately Magnaflow's retail pricing went up 50% in the last few months

It took me a while to track down EFN/test group info... all 00-01 B18Bs are 8WA2:










Interestingly it's not listed for the Integra on Magnaflow's website. I found a ton more approved converters by going to the state database as opposed to manufacturers' websites

Did you ever get your Integra sorted out?

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

I bet the header will be fine especially if you have the heat shield. Since it's a universal cat you could use an adjustable flange, I was planning on doing the same if I needed to switch from B to D.

I had a hard time researching carb compliant cats so thanks for posting that part number. Almost every one I found was less than 2". Sucks that they've gone up in price so much but I'll just buy one and use it for my eh and my db7.

I've been waiting a while to see where you ended up with this, hopefully you pass easily.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I think I'll be okay with the header too. The issue is the 2.5" flange on the ITR header vs the 2" collector flange on the B18B A-pipe.

You are waiting on me? That's patience lol!

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

Blox makes a 2.5" honda donut gasket flange but I haven't found one that rotates yet. Since I don't have an ITR header I haven't bothered to find one. Yeah it's been a couple years I think but I'm not even close to ready to BAR my z2 since my 99 sedan was wrecked last Thanksgiving.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Ouch. Sorry you lost the sedan.

There are a ton of 2.5" flanges out there. I just don't want to weld it on then find out I need to cut it off and weld on a 2" for a stock header. Only going to do it once.