K20 or stay B series
#1
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K20 or stay B series
I'm torn with what to do with my car. I dont know whether to develop the B motor or yank it and go K. My B20vtec cant really go much more as far as camshafts are concerned due to piston to valve issues, so there is only bolt on tuning left in it. I was gonna set it all up ie ericks tb, itr im, headers and then build a strong B for it but I've been researching K motors and now I'm lost.
I think if I got mid 12's out of this motor (which shouldnt be that hard) I should be able to sell the motor for a decent amount. 250whp from a K seems pretty easy.
Then I see the power already being produced in a B (mackspeed for example) and then I think why bother changing.
H E L P ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Opinions please....
I think if I got mid 12's out of this motor (which shouldnt be that hard) I should be able to sell the motor for a decent amount. 250whp from a K seems pretty easy.
Then I see the power already being produced in a B (mackspeed for example) and then I think why bother changing.
H E L P ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Opinions please....
#2
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Re: K20 or stay B series (AussieB20vtec)
I've been thinking a similar thought. But then I remind myself of why I do what I do... I'm dumb But really, I know the K motors are strong and look to be easily modded for power, however there aren't enough of them laying around yet. I prefer a little more aftermarket support and for the parts to not be super expensive, like they are now. The B series, you will find, has lots of people with "extra" parts that they will relinquish for fair prices. Yeah I know... didn't help much did I?
#3
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Re: K20 or stay B series (advanracing62)
Keep in mind B series parts are begining to become extinct. The series will be gone some day. The parts won't be laying around anymore, the prices will go up, and you will be better of with the K series. If i had a choise, I would take the K anyday. They respond good to simple bolt ons, wait till people start opening these things up. Your question will no longer be a question.
#4
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Re: K20 or stay B series (80884)
K series is the future.
if you know someone that can provide you with mounts, and someone that can/will do the wiring for you (its a pain in the asssssss) its worth it.
I personally would go with a K20A JDM ITR/CTR motor if you have access to one. Its ALOT of work, its not a simple thing to do, but again if you know someone that is willing to go thru the headaches and solve problems to get the car running go for it.
oh....forgot, you will have axle problems as well, bseries axels are a bit too short for a k series motor (driver side axle) so you will need a custom axle made, or drive with a short axle
if you have any other questions to hesitate to PM myself or "Pacman" on this board (he already has a k20 in a ek, been on the road for almost 6 months now)
Arno
if you know someone that can provide you with mounts, and someone that can/will do the wiring for you (its a pain in the asssssss) its worth it.
I personally would go with a K20A JDM ITR/CTR motor if you have access to one. Its ALOT of work, its not a simple thing to do, but again if you know someone that is willing to go thru the headaches and solve problems to get the car running go for it.
oh....forgot, you will have axle problems as well, bseries axels are a bit too short for a k series motor (driver side axle) so you will need a custom axle made, or drive with a short axle
if you have any other questions to hesitate to PM myself or "Pacman" on this board (he already has a k20 in a ek, been on the road for almost 6 months now)
Arno
#7
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Re: K20 or stay B series (AussieB20vtec)
i keep seeing the prices of the K series. ****** rediculous. then i cant stand those god damn cable shift mechanism. ill steer clear for a long while.
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#8
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Re: K20 or stay B series (1 2 NV)
The K-Series wiring issues would be alot easier with a Standalone System.
Cable Shifter :-(
6-Speed
I wish the price would go down...
Suprdave
Cable Shifter :-(
6-Speed
I wish the price would go down...
Suprdave
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Re: K20 or stay B series (PacMan ITR)
k are the future, but i still love Bs but K are like 6500 bucks that a alot, and u need mountm azles, ect. to much , just buy a 03si.. my promble with the K is that it has a cover
#12
Re: K20 or stay B series (Suprdave)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It isn't as 'crisp' as a Hydro Shifter...*Shrugs*
Cable Shifter makes it alot easier to put into different cars tho...
Suprdave</TD></TR></TABLE>
hydro shifter?ok
you got that one twisted
Cable Shifter makes it alot easier to put into different cars tho...
Suprdave</TD></TR></TABLE>
hydro shifter?ok
you got that one twisted
#14
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Re: K20 or stay B series (Suprdave)
The K series is the way to go right now. Its just the motors arent as abundant and the price on a complete motor is way too much. Especially for Racing purposes, We'll have to build at least 3 motors to be able to compete and have extra motors on hand for following the race circuits.
#15
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Thread Starter
Re: K20 or stay B series (exospeedAMcrx)
I can get a k20a and box for about 2000 US. I have had offers for my motor alone (leaving me with a 500 dollar box to sell) of 3000 US. My stand alone could be adapted (cam control could be a problem) and I can make mounts and ****.
Hmmm, decisions decisions.........
Hmmm, decisions decisions.........
#16
Re: K20 or stay B series (AussieB20vtec)
Im really thinking about buying one over the winter time.If the motors become cheaper and if i can see a How To for the swap so i can see what problems i will have.Its mighty tempting but well see what happens as more people start to swap.
#18
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Thread Starter
Re: K20 or stay B series (K20 EG)
The more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards K.
I've got a national Jamboree at the end of Sept. I wanna run well there and then I'll see how much interest there is in my motor
I've got a national Jamboree at the end of Sept. I wanna run well there and then I'll see how much interest there is in my motor
#21
Re: K20 or stay B series (216.226.142.95:27016)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about mounts for a dc chassis?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Should be the same as the eg chassis.
Should be the same as the eg chassis.
#22
Re: K20 or stay B series (J2turbo21)
you think so? from what i have gathered reading other threads the eg mounts are welded on and not bolt ons like on the ek chassis. id rather have bolt on mounts than welding mounts on, a little less work to do.
#23
Aussie,
We've already had RSX's here in the US go 13.1@106 on slicks with bolt-on parts. 60 ft times in the 1.8s and a race weight (w/driver) of over 2900 lbs. Its amazing how much power there is in these motors and people haven't even scratched the surface yet.
I would imagine that your car w/driver probably weighs closer to 2000 lbs, so even with the disadvantage of street tires, I think you could still blow your old times out of the water with a bolt-on, stock internal K20A that would run for years without a rebuild. If you're willing to go high compression pistons, custom cams, headwork, etc. you could go much faster.
Power mods for the car I mentioned were AEM CAI, Comptech race header, exhaust, Toda cams, ITR intake manifold, oversize TB and Hondata reflash. If you're starting with a K20A, you could go almost as fast on the ITR cams.
Its the future, and you could be a pioneer if you want to.
C_A_T
We've already had RSX's here in the US go 13.1@106 on slicks with bolt-on parts. 60 ft times in the 1.8s and a race weight (w/driver) of over 2900 lbs. Its amazing how much power there is in these motors and people haven't even scratched the surface yet.
I would imagine that your car w/driver probably weighs closer to 2000 lbs, so even with the disadvantage of street tires, I think you could still blow your old times out of the water with a bolt-on, stock internal K20A that would run for years without a rebuild. If you're willing to go high compression pistons, custom cams, headwork, etc. you could go much faster.
Power mods for the car I mentioned were AEM CAI, Comptech race header, exhaust, Toda cams, ITR intake manifold, oversize TB and Hondata reflash. If you're starting with a K20A, you could go almost as fast on the ITR cams.
Its the future, and you could be a pioneer if you want to.
C_A_T
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: (C_A_T)
Thanx for the replys
My car at the moment is 1680 WITH me
SOLD (on the idea) Begins in 7 weeks
Edit: Hmmm taking 1200lbs off that RSX adds nearly 20mph to it's quarter trap speed
Modified by AussieB20vtec at 4:43 PM 8/5/2003
My car at the moment is 1680 WITH me
SOLD (on the idea) Begins in 7 weeks
Edit: Hmmm taking 1200lbs off that RSX adds nearly 20mph to it's quarter trap speed
Modified by AussieB20vtec at 4:43 PM 8/5/2003
#25
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Re: (AussieB20vtec)
with Bseries supplies starting to get low
and the Kseries here. The K will defenitly be the future.
Ive been reading alot about the K also, they are making great power without alot of mods. ECU reprogramming is a major thing it seems to me, cause of all the rescritions on the KSeries
but sooner or later, the K will be easy to swap. Someone I think will make some kinda of wiring harness?!
and the Kseries here. The K will defenitly be the future.
Ive been reading alot about the K also, they are making great power without alot of mods. ECU reprogramming is a major thing it seems to me, cause of all the rescritions on the KSeries
but sooner or later, the K will be easy to swap. Someone I think will make some kinda of wiring harness?!