basstester84

I recently pulled the H22A4 out of my 2000 Honda Prelude and installed a 97 H22A. Before installing the motor all necessary components were swapped from the USDM motor to the JDM motor to include ecm, wiring harness, distributor, oil pump, crank position sensor, top dead center sensor, exhaust header, intake manifold, knock sensor, crank gears, and VTEC controller. When I turn the key it cranks and cranks but will not start. I pulled off the fuel return hose and turned the key on and it shot out fuel so I know I'm getting fuel. I did a spark test on each of the cylinders and I got spark. When I changed out the oil pump I had to reinstall the timing belt of course so I know the timing is good. I also adjusted the valve lash while the motor was out of the car so I know thats good. I plugged in an OBD 2 tester and I'm getting no codes. I also did a compression test and that passed. Oh and I put in brand new spark plugs of course also. I actually tried using justanswer. com if anybody is familiar with that website and a mechanic on there told me I need to run the JDM ECU and swap the H22A parts back on instead of the H22A4 parts. However the research I have done on the swap nobody else has done that, everybody uses the USDM ECU. Does anybody else have any ideas at all why this damn thing wont start?

f20b jones

Easy fix man happens all the time . You didnt hook the ground up on the wiring harness that grounds to a ten mm bolt on the thermostate housing . If its not grounding the fuel injectors will not fire. Thats the only thing it can be good luck happens all the time. Four ground wires actually coming out the wiring harness right by thermastate housing with a round eye on it .

basstester84

I don't remember seeing any extra wires that I didnt hook up but ill check it out. Thanks for responding to my thread.

basstester84

If I'm getting fuel out the return line wouldnt that mean the injectors are firing tho?

basstester84

I finally got around to checking that today and it is hooked up...I'm wondering if when i did the valve lash adjustment if maybe i could have overtightened the rockerarm nuts. Does anybody know if that would cause it to crank and not start?

f20b jones

If there to tight it want have compression so it cant fire . Are you sure you hooked up the wire im taking about . Take me a picture if you dont mind.

basstester84

Yah I'm pretty sure it is the wire you're talking about because I still have the old JDM thermostat housing with the wire still attached to it from the JDM wiring harness to reference it from. I can take a pic of that one as it would probably be easier. I did a compression test and I have compression so the valves must not be the problem either. I'm wondering if maybe one of my fuel injectors is broke or something. I'm going to have to take those out next week and inspect them. I must be a dumbass, I cant figure out how to post pictures on here from my computer.

hondasdohc

Do you have the wires from the crank angle sensor hooked up cause if you have the obd1 distributor then you need to put the crank angle sensor wires from the block to the distributor. If you have the obd2 distributor then it should just be plug and play you should of just used the old wire harness you had its obd2 isn't it. 2000 preludes are all obd2 and the jdm h22a has the same plugs as the h22a4 so use all your pre-existing parts off the h22a4 because im pretty sure its the crank angle sensor on the distributor.

basstester84

yah I have all the a4 parts hooked up including the crank and top dead center sensor....I'll have to doublecheck that too and make sure that I didnt leave it unplugged by sum crazy chance but Im pretty sure it is plugged in

hondasdohc

So is your car obd2 and your harness also?

basstester84

Yes the ecm is obd 2 as well as the harness. Basically everything on the motor is either from the old A4 or new A4 parts. Basically just used the head down from the H22A. What about the cam gears? Would it make a difference if I used H22A or A4 cam gears?

f20b jones

No as long as it is in time cam gears are the same . Also it will crank if the crank angle sensor is unplugged just want rev over 4,000.

basstester84

I havent thought of checking where the RPM's were when it was cranking. Hopefully I'll get a chance to look at it again tomorrow, as far as listening to it, it sounds like its about to start up, just never does. I know I'm getting fuel at the fuel inlet and return lines so I'm thinking maybe the maybe the fuel injectors are gummed up from sitting around so long and are spraying so I'm gettin fuel from the line but not spraying enough for the motor to start. I think its a good theory so I'm going to check it out tomorrow. Is there actually a way to come up with an idea of what it is by how many rpm's it will crank too?

hondasdohc

Does your car have an immobilizer like the little green key on the dash could be that. That's the last thing i can think of

basstester84

Not really familiar with what an immobilizer is. I do not have a green key on the dash. I have like a small red light located on the dash area for the car alarm. I don't think changing engines would affect the car alarm and not be allowing it to start but maybe i should look into that as well.

hondasdohc

Yea it could be since its obd2 they have immobilzer which is what the key fob is for just get that checked out.

basstester84

Ok I'm going to check the fuel injectors and the immobilizer. Another thing I was considering do you guys think the fuel could have gone bad after sitting in the tank for about 3-4 months? It says right on the dash to use premium fuel but I always ran mid grade without a problem. I'm wondering if since its old now tho it could be a problem. Just throwing out as many ideas as possible and trying to get new ones, It's really taking alot of effort to figure out whats wrong with this thing.

unieizm

Are you still running the cars orginal ECU?

basstester84

Yah the original ecu is obd 2 and thats what I'm running. If you look further up in the thread I have a complete list of parts that I swapped over from the A4 motor to the H22a.

gstrudler

The green light is around the key cylinder. When you open your doors there is a ring around where you put your key in on the steering wheel column that should light up green. There is also a green key light in your gauge cluster that will flash if the immobilizer doesn't like the key or similar.

basstester84

Yah I never noticed it before but I checked it and it does light up then go out so I know thats not the problem either now. I'm going to have to see if I can do a more accurate fuel pressure test to get a specific reading on what my pressure is.

basstester84

Ok I think I'm making some progress. I checked the resistance on the fuel injectors and it measured at 11-12 ohms on all of them which is way higher than what it should be. The manual says to check the PGM-FI relay but I cant seem to locate it. The fuel pump is working tho so wouldnt that mean that the relay is working? If anybody has more info on this some help would be appreciated.

basstester84

Well I actually found out some info from looking at other threads. The PGM-FI can be bad and the fuel pump can still operate, there is different parts of it that can go bad and it goes bad from the car sittin out in the sun too long with the windows up, apparently the solder melts, thats pretty crazy but considering my car has been sitting for months that is totally possible. Also I found out it is located under the dash near the fuse box. I looked under there and there is a sh*t ton of wire harnesses and relays, I'm probably gonna have to look at a wiring schematic and see what color the wires are that go to it to figure out which one it is. If anybody still has any info other than that they think i should know feel free to leave a post.

hondasdohc

yeah that's true i rigged my relay on my 92 civic 4dr cause i know about wiring. Mine got messed up and i had to make it work and it always works now. I made it so that the fuel primes when the relay clicks by putting a wire to the magnetic part to the fuel pin and the ecu pin also cause the engine check light never turned because the ecu pin signal also was not working. But that's what i did you can just get a new one.

basstester84

Another thing I was trying to figure out, I took my fuel injectors out today and they look pretty dirty, I was wondering if when u blow through one end of the injector if u should be able to feel the air coming out the other end? I have them soaking in fuel injector cleaner right now so I'm going to check them tommorrow and see if that made any difference.