Jsarv

Ok I posted this in the Prelude Forum as well. But I'm really needing help on this one!

94 Civic EJ1 Coupe
JDM H221 OBD1 P13 ECU
AEM Hybrid Intake
LoveFab 4-2-1 Header True 2.5"
2.5" ITR Cat
2.5" Catback
Wal. 255. LP Pump
FP is around 58 WOT
Plugs are grey/Brown, a tad rich but nothing serious
No DET.
EGT's seem good, primaries are all around 300F after first fan cycle
Timing is set (checked again tonight was 2d retarded, advanced it to 15d btdc) CHECKED TWICE. Cam timing is spot on.

Have some weird vibrations between 3-5k.

BUT we are having backfiring when throttle during throttle close.
No serious black smoke (followed car) no extreme fuel smell. No flames.

The more load you put on the car right before you close the throttle the more it pops and the louder it pops. Its not a traditional backfire, its more of an exhaust burp.

When we advanced the timing 2D to make 15d btdc, the problem seems to have gotten worse.

Compression is 250 across. Everything in the igntion has been replaced (New Coil, tested new ICM, New Cap, New Rotor, New plugs gapped .044, the only thing that has not been replaced are the wires, which are NGK's.)

Seems to have something holding the car back, could be wrong.

But I cannot figure out why we are having popping when we transistion to closed throttle.

If you are at 15% or so throttle, let off and just touch it again it does it EVERYTIME.

Somone please help me out here!

Valves were adjusted less than 100 miles ago. No major adjustments. No major wear on the cams.
Idle is clean, but this backfiring thing is making me think its related to it feeling sort of sluggish.... No check engine lights and EGR is not blocked off but not being used.

All inj. have good resistance @ 2.3ohm's, using a resistor box.

TPS has NOO dead spots (at least none that we could find after testing it for an hour, thinking that HAD to be it)

Nothing out of the ordinary, just backfiring and feeling slighly sluggish. AKA does not break traction in first gear, does however spin into second, but nothing crazy.

Burn exhaust/ bent exhaust valve!?! (what about compression though, we tested it 4 times, and same result everytimg, even when cold the variance reflected the hot test perfectly)

I'm lost and almost wishing I would have kept the B16 and boosted it!!!!!

Somone please make me love the H!!!

BTW my other post:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2278002

lexan2.2sedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jsarv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
JDM H221 OBD1 P13 ECU <U>UNCHIPPED/UNTUNED</U>

LoveFab 4-2-1 Header True 2.5"
2.5" ITR Cat
2.5" Catback</TD></TR></TABLE>

There ya go.

Jsarv

Just for that I'm doing name dropping. IT WOULD HAVE HONDATA today! However, a good ol' place called Adrennaline motorsports said "YEA no problem we can chip your JDM P30 and have it right back out to you!!!"

So I overnight it to them, and get a call that next day (Not at 10AM, or before when it was guaranteed!!! to be there, but at 4PM) saying "Uhhh I uhhhh can't chip this JDM P30, I will have to send it to Hondata and they will charge you an extra $150 for chipping it. But I can trade your computer in for a P28, charge you another $75 on top of the $75 your already paying to have the P30 Chipped and have it out to you tom.

I asked them 3 times before I overnighted my JDM P30 to them. "Do you have Hondata S300J, and Can you socket it?" Answer YES all three times. So I spent $25 Dollars on having it over nighted, and don't even get the call when they get the ECU.


Sorry I had to vent! Moral of the story, be very very careful where you send your ECU For Hondata socketing. And btw, I really really hope I get my JDM P30 back in working condition, I have 2 witness' that saw the H drive with it with no check engine lights, on Sunday. One day before it was shipped out to be socketed.


To finish off, I will have Hondata next week, so the "untuned" part will be fixed.


And BTW, Hondata charges $100 for socketing, Adrennaline was trying to charge me $75, plus $150 for Hondata to do it, when I could send it to Hondata myself for $100.

I hope someone important reads what I've posted and takes it to heart, because they should NOT be Hondata Distributors!

So an untuned/unchipped P13 will afterfire ehh?

ilikehonda

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jsarv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So an untuned/unchipped P13 will afterfire ehh?</TD></TR></TABLE>

with the header and exhaust...yes

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

Once the motor is tuned, you will have no problems.

bluedlude

you should learn how to solder. a monkey that knew how to solder could socket an ECU. the socketing kit is dirt cheap from moates.net. then buy Neptune RTP and tune it yourself.

98vtec

soldering isnt the bad part. desoldering is the back breaker if you dont have the "nice" sucker.

bluedlude

very true. i can definitely say from experience spend the $30 for a good sucker instead of $5 for a bulb and a huge pain in the ***

Jsarv

uhh i do know how to solder thats how the wiring harness was done. but i didnt want to take the chance of messing the ecu up, so i sent it off. i don't know why your telling me to get neptune when i have done stated that im using hondata.

thanks for the help but something directed a little more towards the engine issues would be great

GhostAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should learn how to solder. a monkey that knew how to solder could socket an ECU. the socketing kit is dirt cheap from moates.net. then buy Neptune RTP and tune it yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">soldering isnt the bad part. desoldering is the back breaker if you dont have the "nice" sucker.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you happen to realize that he's talking about having a surface mount JDM ECU chipped not a USDM thru hole Board. A USDM board can be soldered in no time the JDM is a bit more delicate. Not every monkey can surface solder, but the trained ones can...

sohctodohc

Anyway thanks for the input, still don't understand why when I bring my Fuel pressure down to 40-45psi (Vacuum line disconnected) that the car idles perfect. But as soon as the throttle is touched it falls FLAT on its face. It seems to be running WAY richer when the Fuel pressure is brought down to where it needs to be.

YES the timing is perfect. YES the cam timing is spot on. Yes the TPS is good (swapped for a good known working TPS today)

Why would brining the fuel pressure down on a 255hp pump make it run worse?!?!?!

God I hate H series engines!

And who the hell at Honda was smoking a fatty when they designed the JDM H Fuel rail!!? The FPR comes before the injectors!!


INJ1-----INJ2-----INJ3-----INJ4----FPR----Fuel Inlet.

Seriously that makes no sense to me. Almost like the fuel can leave the fuel rail prior to hitting the injectors, I would also think this would cause fluctuations in fuel delivery to INJ 1-2....


Anyway 190 Pump will be here Monday and S300 (SURFACE MOUNT!!! I'm not melting a JDM P30, its worth my $55 to have a GOOD reputable shop do the work)

Hopefully I won't have the strong urge to burn the car come Tuesday!!