D16Y8 with goodies off a tooth?
#1
Loves Tossing Salad
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: They all look like little ants
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
10 Posts
D16Y8 with goodies off a tooth?
So, I spent the better part of the weekend tearing down my car to put some goodies in. 1998 Civic EX, D16Y8 now with Crower retainers, keepers and springs to handle a Skunk2 Tuner Series 2 Cam and pro series adjustable cam gear (please let's stay on the topic of my problem and not my choice of parts). Gear came shipped at roughly 4.75 degrees retarded, since it's also made to fit the Z6. Makes sense. So I fit everything in the top end, set to TDC (As marked by manufacturer) and fit the bottom end to TDC. Strapped everything together, torqued down to spec and tensioned the belt properly. Properly as in crank pulley first, then tensioner, then water pump then gear. Rotate three sprockets of the crank counter clock and tighten tensioner bolt. Rotated by hand and nothing was binding, no irregular noises of any kind. Valve lash was done to spec afterwards.
Here's the kicker, started it up and it sounded like the belt was slapping the belt cover. Seriously, that's what it sounded like. The noise was coming from the right side of the car, my initial thought was belt slapping the cover. Took the cover off, put everything back together without it, and it still makes the sound. I am very skeptical about P2V problems, as I compression tested the first two cylinders and 180 on both. Yea, I didn't test the other two because the noise is coming from the timing belt area. I assume.......that would hint if a valve was bent. I even took the exhaust header off and stuck a flashlight in and rotated the engine. Valves seem to be closing without any problems.
So my theory is it's off a tooth. But how the eff can I tell which way it's off? It's an adjustable cam gear and everything lines up timing wise. I'm very stuck. Pulling the head off is the last step I want to take but it may be necessary.
Any thoughts?
Cliffs: Upgraded valvetrain, S2 tuner 2 cam and adjustable gear. Sounds like belt slapping but it's not, feels like it's off a tooth. How can I verify if it is off a tooth, which way? Also, CEL came on for CFK so I cleared it and it only pops up about a minute after running the car.
Here's the kicker, started it up and it sounded like the belt was slapping the belt cover. Seriously, that's what it sounded like. The noise was coming from the right side of the car, my initial thought was belt slapping the cover. Took the cover off, put everything back together without it, and it still makes the sound. I am very skeptical about P2V problems, as I compression tested the first two cylinders and 180 on both. Yea, I didn't test the other two because the noise is coming from the timing belt area. I assume.......that would hint if a valve was bent. I even took the exhaust header off and stuck a flashlight in and rotated the engine. Valves seem to be closing without any problems.
So my theory is it's off a tooth. But how the eff can I tell which way it's off? It's an adjustable cam gear and everything lines up timing wise. I'm very stuck. Pulling the head off is the last step I want to take but it may be necessary.
Any thoughts?
Cliffs: Upgraded valvetrain, S2 tuner 2 cam and adjustable gear. Sounds like belt slapping but it's not, feels like it's off a tooth. How can I verify if it is off a tooth, which way? Also, CEL came on for CFK so I cleared it and it only pops up about a minute after running the car.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: D16Y8 with goodies off a tooth?
So, I spent the better part of the weekend tearing down my car to put some goodies in. 1998 Civic EX, D16Y8 now with Crower retainers, keepers and springs to handle a Skunk2 Tuner Series 2 Cam and pro series adjustable cam gear (please let's stay on the topic of my problem and not my choice of parts). Gear came shipped at roughly 4.75 degrees retarded, since it's also made to fit the Z6. Makes sense. So I fit everything in the top end, set to TDC (As marked by manufacturer) and fit the bottom end to TDC. Strapped everything together, torqued down to spec and tensioned the belt properly. Properly as in crank pulley first, then tensioner, then water pump then gear. Rotate three sprockets of the crank counter clock and tighten tensioner bolt. Rotated by hand and nothing was binding, no irregular noises of any kind. Valve lash was done to spec afterwards.
Here's the kicker, started it up and it sounded like the belt was slapping the belt cover. Seriously, that's what it sounded like. The noise was coming from the right side of the car, my initial thought was belt slapping the cover. Took the cover off, put everything back together without it, and it still makes the sound. I am very skeptical about P2V problems, as I compression tested the first two cylinders and 180 on both. Yea, I didn't test the other two because the noise is coming from the timing belt area. I assume.......that would hint if a valve was bent. I even took the exhaust header off and stuck a flashlight in and rotated the engine. Valves seem to be closing without any problems.
So my theory is it's off a tooth. But how the eff can I tell which way it's off? It's an adjustable cam gear and everything lines up timing wise. I'm very stuck. Pulling the head off is the last step I want to take but it may be necessary.
Any thoughts?
Cliffs: Upgraded valvetrain, S2 tuner 2 cam and adjustable gear. Sounds like belt slapping but it's not, feels like it's off a tooth. How can I verify if it is off a tooth, which way? Also, CEL came on for CFK so I cleared it and it only pops up about a minute after running the car.
Here's the kicker, started it up and it sounded like the belt was slapping the belt cover. Seriously, that's what it sounded like. The noise was coming from the right side of the car, my initial thought was belt slapping the cover. Took the cover off, put everything back together without it, and it still makes the sound. I am very skeptical about P2V problems, as I compression tested the first two cylinders and 180 on both. Yea, I didn't test the other two because the noise is coming from the timing belt area. I assume.......that would hint if a valve was bent. I even took the exhaust header off and stuck a flashlight in and rotated the engine. Valves seem to be closing without any problems.
So my theory is it's off a tooth. But how the eff can I tell which way it's off? It's an adjustable cam gear and everything lines up timing wise. I'm very stuck. Pulling the head off is the last step I want to take but it may be necessary.
Any thoughts?
Cliffs: Upgraded valvetrain, S2 tuner 2 cam and adjustable gear. Sounds like belt slapping but it's not, feels like it's off a tooth. How can I verify if it is off a tooth, which way? Also, CEL came on for CFK so I cleared it and it only pops up about a minute after running the car.
The CKF fault is could be due to the cam and crank sensors being too far off from each other (outside the allowed window of operation). What was the fault code for? Below limit, above limit, implausible, open circuit, etc? If the sensor itself is faulty for whatever reason, you might could do the CKF bypass/jumper solution.
I'd do a leakdown test if you want to be 100% a out your valves. You could have slightly bent valves on all cylinders causing low but even numbers on all cylinders. IF you have any valves leaking, then you could actually have much higher compression numbers with everything sealing up the way it should.
#6
Loves Tossing Salad
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: They all look like little ants
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
10 Posts
Re: D16Y8 with goodies off a tooth?
I'd try taking the stock cam gear and stacking it up with the adjustable one. Adjust the gear so it matches the OEM gear and you should be pretty close to zero.
The CKF fault is could be due to the cam and crank sensors being too far off from each other (outside the allowed window of operation). What was the fault code for? Below limit, above limit, implausible, open circuit, etc? If the sensor itself is faulty for whatever reason, you might could do the CKF bypass/jumper solution.
I'd do a leakdown test if you want to be 100% a out your valves. You could have slightly bent valves on all cylinders causing low but even numbers on all cylinders. IF you have any valves leaking, then you could actually have much higher compression numbers with everything sealing up the way it should.
The CKF fault is could be due to the cam and crank sensors being too far off from each other (outside the allowed window of operation). What was the fault code for? Below limit, above limit, implausible, open circuit, etc? If the sensor itself is faulty for whatever reason, you might could do the CKF bypass/jumper solution.
I'd do a leakdown test if you want to be 100% a out your valves. You could have slightly bent valves on all cylinders causing low but even numbers on all cylinders. IF you have any valves leaking, then you could actually have much higher compression numbers with everything sealing up the way it should.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Florida, United States
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: D16Y8 with goodies off a tooth?
Wow. Sounds like something is tapping against something. Try pulling valve cover off and checking your rocker arms. Your timing could of been far enough off for v2v or p2v. Did the cam gear say 4.75 degrees retarded on the Y8 or Z6 side? If it was on the Y8 side, did you zero it out on the Y8 side. I degreed a zex 59300 and it ended up being 4 degrees advanced. You might want to look into degreeing the camshaft after you figure out the issue.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
09chaplak
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
31
09-27-2015 08:50 AM
supra-n-civic
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
7
11-05-2009 06:53 AM