m4xwellmurd3r

ah I couldn't remember if it was that they don't do it at all, or if they just didn't give you the nice warranty they give with the b18 blocks. Still a pretty pointless thing to do considering the limit with CSS isn't much better than without.

93egSLEEPER

I agree, especially with a Turbo application. For an AM application I think its decent insurance, at least on a B20 that will have some compression and rev.

m_shake

Makes it 1715cc. Another cool option is using a b17a crank in a b20, with 26mm compression height pistons and custom rods net about 1.77-1.78 rs and 1804cc. I personally would do the b17 crank if doing a build along these lines, more torque and will still take revs well.

I don't see the CSS being a must but just some insurance. Not for the cylinder pressure but to help keep the bores steady at extreme rpms.

94SiRswap

Yeah..
The Css'd b20 being limited 400 or limited to some isn't bad for me.My first few Honda builds are going to be all motor.

94SiRswap

I'm digging the b17 crank in the b20 block,enough to start buying my parts based around the build.

This is my plan,relatively soon,install my type r cams,pick up a better intake mani over my stock and bore tb to match,drive as is while I collect a pretty large shopping list of parts..which included my plan for a sleeved 85mm b16...

What if I went with the b17 crank in a b20 block and max bore sleeved that? Could I make roughly 2.0l with the 1.77rs? If so that's what I'm gonna do.Balance everything,knife edge crank,build head,etc.I wanna get the wildest cams I can get away with streeting too.
I saw this b18c YouTube,boosted 800whp,smashing on the new gtrs,boosted camaros,corvettes,a Lexus LFA,even keeping up with bikes.
His cams were so sick it was barely able to idle lol

m_shake

Even if you sleeved the block and bore to 86mm which is pretty much the limit and I personally wouldn't run that big on a car spending much time on the street you won't reach 2000cc

94SiRswap

Yeeeahupp
Realistically I think I'm just going to stick with my b16 block and head :0
I personally love these smaller motors,1.6l and up pretty much and I guess the 1.3 rotary but that's in a different category.The fact I love them and that everyone and their mother is against building this block are why I'm prolly gonna build it,I understand my torque will suck and I won't be making as much power as a b20 or gsr,but that's the thing I don't have a b20 or gsr,it's a b16 lol.
I might not end up sleeving it though..82mm compared to 85mm,and saving roughly 12-1500$ or so on getting it sleeved.How much of a difference will that 3mm make?

94SiRswap

Another thing, for my quickie build that I was talking about before,I want to make as much power as I can for relatively cheap (don't we all) and drive it around like that while I buy my parts list for my full build.
As of right now I have
No name cai-installed
No name 4-2-1 headers to straight through 2.5 exhaust stock muffler-installed
Chipped ecu (vtec at 5k,check engine shift light,don't know much else car came like that)-installed
K tuned short shifter - installed
Tein s coil overs - installed
Type R cams - Not installed yet

I think my vtec kicks a little too early I don't really feel it pulling until like 5300 it just gets louder at 5k.Other than that it runs nice.So I'm thinking for now my cams,a intake mani,maybe a better throttle body?Anything with the ignition like a MSD box?Fuel rail with some bigger injectors?I haven't really built an all motor 4 banger yet,I'd like to gain maybe 10-25whp for under 500$ or so ^ including those cams^ so I can be content while I get all my parts for the big build.Whats my best route on doing so?
Thanks

unusual71

like mentioned before me, don't put a huge weight on the R/s ratio, almost all of our conceivable Honda builds will be well within a safe limit. from what i've seen the engine will fail via some other method before the wear from a little steeper R/s ratio comes into play in most cases. there are exceptions but im not really seeing those scenarios mentioned here.
notice in racing everyone is almost always right up against the displacement limit?

94SiRswap

Yeah pretty much.Maybe I'm putting too much emphasis on the r/s ratio,but I will keep it in mind (among other things) if I'm gonna be buzzing a motor passed 9k with some Toda's and it's still pulling.

Bump on my quickie cam swap build though ....I'm doing cams,ported tb port matched intake mani...what else can I do without pulling the head,and for relatively cheap.I'm gonna do the hondata im gasket,a new tune when it's all said and done ....

TracerAcer2.2L

If you're going to rev to 9k you need to do valve springs and retainers. Titanium or aluminum retainers will lighten VT mass. You should also replace your valve seals, either skunk 2 or supertech, and you may want to upgrade your LMAs as well. Yes all this can be done without taking off the head. Only replacing valves and headgasket requires that

94SiRswap

Oh yeah I know all of that will come in time for me..but before I buy my shopping list of parts for a full teardown/rebuild,I'm doing the type R cams,intake/tb port/portmatch,hondata im gasket,and basically thats it I guess.Any quick mods for a power gain (even if minimal) would be appreciated.
Already have headers,cai,straight through exhaust,chipped,k tuned short throw....Going to focus on weight reduction as well either before or shortly after my mini build (cam swap etc)
And yes I wont be spinning 9k until im fully built/tuned with better cams valvtrain balanced rotating assembly blah blah blah,, the tune will dictate where I'm revving to ultimately.
Or I could be a cool kid and set my rev limiter at 10k right now, and say my redlines at 10k "those are better than type R numbers bruh M44D VTACKK y0!"

94SiRswap

I still would like input for my minibuild, but back on the R-s ratio heres a good read from MotoIQ http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...th-Matter.aspx

MOCrxHf

The easiest thing to do is just take a F20B and sleeve it and bore it to 88mm. Get custom F20B pistons from KSTuned which are 12.5:1 in the 88mm bore. You'd have a 2.2L F20B with a really good RS without changing much of anything except the bore.

TracerAcer2.2L

^^^we went over that already


Weight reduction is the best bang for your buck out of all the mods you can do. Most weight reduction is free or near free. Might as well get started on it now

94SiRswap

Yeah the F20 idea is pretty much the easiest optimal ratio'd big block build ive came across so far.

^^nd yup I was going to start stripping down the coupe this weekend but it was BRICK up here in CT..I'm talking eskimo.