B20vtec Rebuild, Advice/Input, Spun Rod Bearing
06-23-2011, 12:16 AM
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B20vtec Rebuild, Advice/Input, Spun Rod Bearing
I'm in the process of rebuilding my b20vtec engine due to a spun rod #2 bearing. After the tearing the engine apart I also noticed a hairline crack in sleeve#3. I wish I had more miles out of the setup before catastrophe stuck although I'm ready to rebuild and try again hopefully with better results.
The main issue I had with the last setup was oil leaking past the engine seals which I personally attributed to excessive crankcase pressure. I took precaution after the initial build and had 2 catchcan setups on the motor although the engine still pushed oil pass the seals. I ran an "Endyn catch can" routed to 2 breather ports on the back of the block, and also installed two bung fittings on the front of the valve cover running to an additional catchcan. The initial build used all OEM seals and gaskets.
My assumption is that the piston's ring end gap was too loose causing the excessive oil blow-by and caused oil to leak pass nearly every gasket on the engine.
Obviously my main objective(s) is to assure that this rebuild will have adequate oil pressure and no oil leaks like the last build resulting in a longer life. I'll be reusing the majority of the same parts from the last build with the exception of the old block and old crank.
I purchased another complete b20 short block with a crank and main caps, etc. because the old block has a cracked sleeve. I didn't want to drop big money to have the old block sleeved and I've found it unnecessary compared to similar NA builds.
QUESTIONS...
1) The old setup I used had an ITR girdle installed on the 3 inner main crankshaft caps. The 3 caps had to be machined down to accept the ITR girdle. Any possibility I can use those main caps and girdle on the new shortblock and new crank?
2) I'm running 84.5mm CP pistons. I've ordered CP piston rings which should arrive any day. What piston ring end gap do you recommend or are currently running with no issues?
3) I ran a stock OEM b20 headgasket on the last build. Is this adequate for a 84.5mm bore size?
4) Any of you running mechanical oil pressure gauges? I've had an Autometer electrical gauge but I'm not sure how reliable the sending units are. I'd like to confirm that I'm getting adequate oil pressure on this new build.
5) I'll be purchasing another oem itr oil pump. I've heard of some people modifying them slightly for increased oil pressure. Any input on that would be great...
6) Also considering purchasing a baffled oil pan or a baffled insert for the stock oem itr pan. I'd like to autocross the car so I don't want any oil starvation in hard turns.
HERE'S a LINK with INFO and PART SPECS on the BUILD...most of this will be the same for the new build:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b20vtec-specs-dyno-220-whp-153-tq-2272403/
SOME PICTURES OF OLD BUILD AFTERMATH, MORE PICS TO COME. ILL KEEP THIS THREAD UPDATED WITH PROGRESS AND PICS....
OLD BUILD:
CRACKED SLEEVE #3
ITR GIRDLE ON INNER 3 CAPS
SPUN ROD BEARING #2
CRANK ROD JOURNAL #2
The main issue I had with the last setup was oil leaking past the engine seals which I personally attributed to excessive crankcase pressure. I took precaution after the initial build and had 2 catchcan setups on the motor although the engine still pushed oil pass the seals. I ran an "Endyn catch can" routed to 2 breather ports on the back of the block, and also installed two bung fittings on the front of the valve cover running to an additional catchcan. The initial build used all OEM seals and gaskets.
My assumption is that the piston's ring end gap was too loose causing the excessive oil blow-by and caused oil to leak pass nearly every gasket on the engine.
Obviously my main objective(s) is to assure that this rebuild will have adequate oil pressure and no oil leaks like the last build resulting in a longer life. I'll be reusing the majority of the same parts from the last build with the exception of the old block and old crank.
I purchased another complete b20 short block with a crank and main caps, etc. because the old block has a cracked sleeve. I didn't want to drop big money to have the old block sleeved and I've found it unnecessary compared to similar NA builds.
QUESTIONS...
1) The old setup I used had an ITR girdle installed on the 3 inner main crankshaft caps. The 3 caps had to be machined down to accept the ITR girdle. Any possibility I can use those main caps and girdle on the new shortblock and new crank?
2) I'm running 84.5mm CP pistons. I've ordered CP piston rings which should arrive any day. What piston ring end gap do you recommend or are currently running with no issues?
3) I ran a stock OEM b20 headgasket on the last build. Is this adequate for a 84.5mm bore size?
4) Any of you running mechanical oil pressure gauges? I've had an Autometer electrical gauge but I'm not sure how reliable the sending units are. I'd like to confirm that I'm getting adequate oil pressure on this new build.
5) I'll be purchasing another oem itr oil pump. I've heard of some people modifying them slightly for increased oil pressure. Any input on that would be great...
6) Also considering purchasing a baffled oil pan or a baffled insert for the stock oem itr pan. I'd like to autocross the car so I don't want any oil starvation in hard turns.
HERE'S a LINK with INFO and PART SPECS on the BUILD...most of this will be the same for the new build:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b20vtec-specs-dyno-220-whp-153-tq-2272403/
SOME PICTURES OF OLD BUILD AFTERMATH, MORE PICS TO COME. ILL KEEP THIS THREAD UPDATED WITH PROGRESS AND PICS....
OLD BUILD:
CRACKED SLEEVE #3
ITR GIRDLE ON INNER 3 CAPS
SPUN ROD BEARING #2
CRANK ROD JOURNAL #2
Last edited by Nisif; 06-23-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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