When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just got dyno tuned about two weeks ago. I thought I would be over the 200s with my setup. I know its just numbers but still. What would your suggestions be.
84mm ycp high comp pistons
Stock rods, arp rod bolts
p72 head refreshed by local machines shop. Stock port, new oem valve seals
blox dual valve springs
New itr LMA's, stock retainers
skunk2 stage 1 cams
jg cam gears (0,0)
skunk2 pro manifold port matched to TB
70mm throttle body
1320 toda rep header
yonaka ws2 rep exhaust
stock injectors, FPR and pump
Made 187whp and 139 wtq.
vtec @ 4k. This car is for mainly for autox and hpde. Not sure if that's why vtec is so low or something is off. Car runs good and pulls hard to 8100 (ran out of injector)
Tuner didn't want to touch cam gears since I didn't degree the motor. At the moment I'm buying fuel upgrades. Just bought some grams 550cc injectors, will be buying 190lph fuel pump soon. Looking to retune later this summer. Any suggestions??
I had a similar build once - 84.5 b20/GSR, s2s2 cams, made around 189/137. I'd say the only real difference in yours is the higher compression. You probably had a lower reading dyno, or a mediocre tune.
What Skunk2 "stage 1" cams you have, Pro or Tuner? If last one, it is normal that engine likes lower VTEC crossover, because difference between hi/lower profiles is prominent and lower one is quite "sofisticated". Your tuner doed right, it is insane to adjust cams if engine builder hasn't check the clearances and real timing. So there's might be some potential left, which found when finetuning them. Also that exhaust might cut some headers resonance effect, 3" works well in most setups.
Tuner 1. Im the one that pretty much built the motor. Its is my 1st time doing so. I did not degree the motor. I just figured these pistons have big enough valve reliefs to play with these cams since they are on the smaller side.
Tuner 1. Im the one that pretty much built the motor. Its is my 1st time doing so. I did not degree the motor. I just figured these pistons have big enough valve reliefs to play with these cams since they are on the smaller side.
The Tuner 1 cams work very well with the Pro series manifold and a 70mm TB. I liked this set up when I had it on a 1.8 C5 engine. The tuner 1 cams are very mild compared to the higher staged cams, these are very similar the 2000 spec ITR and CTR cams which were a bit more aggressive than the older year ITR and CTR cams.
If you modify the engine again I highly recommend going with Tuner 2 cams, Ultra street manifold and 74mm T.B. even better if you port the manifold.
Tuner 1. Im the one that pretty much built the motor. Its is my 1st time doing so. I did not degree the motor. I just figured these pistons have big enough valve reliefs to play with these cams since they are on the smaller side.
I understand, it is still important to know the limits. Usually intake cam advancing, even just two-four crank degrees (one-two deg when readed from the cam gear), gives positive effect especially mid range and top end. Those cams not have that much overlap, and in that case it helps in start of intake cycle. Also closing valve little bit earlier than late is better because air mass is still forced in by dynamic pressure, when there is enough energy.
Tuner 1. Im the one that pretty much built the motor. Its is my 1st time doing so. I did not degree the motor. I just figured these pistons have big enough valve reliefs to play with these cams since they are on the smaller side.
Degreeing cams isn't just about hitting pistons. Its about making sure your valves don't hit each other and making sure they open at the correct degree.
Degreeing cams isn't just about hitting pistons. Its about making sure your valves don't hit each other and making sure they open at the correct degree.
Thanks man, didn't know that. If I ever take this motor out, I will get it degree'd.
Stop by another shop which is close to home just to do some dyno pulls. I was curious. Essentially it ran the same as the previous dyno sheet in the original post. Difference was this time i have ac belt hooked up so i started with a loss of about 5 whp. I know different day different dyno. We gained 5-6 whp just by advancing the distributor 2-3 degrees. I should have taken the belt off to see if what the loss really was. This shop thinks im corked up with the yonaka exhaust which is like 2.3 inches inner diameter. They also suggest tuner 2s. Fuel was rich probably due to me telling previous tuner i was using it for hpde and autox. I did purchase some blox type c's which are jun 3 reps but they stated i should get a better cam for a fatter power band. Type c's need rpm. Looking at different dynos of 200whp to 210whp setups, Im on par whp wise till about 6k, then i only gain about 15whp till redline where other cars gain about 30 whp. This makes me think the car isnt able to breathe up top. Buikding a 3.5 intake with velocity stack and filter vs the 2.75 intake i currently have. Also will do a 3 inch exhaust as suggested earlier.
What altitude are you at?
What size Vtec Hose are you using?
Did you check timing sync with timing light?
Your graph looks smooth as far as vtec engagement, i can't really tell where it engaged, what RPM did it engage? If it's a little higher than normal for those cams then you have exhaust restriction.
I'm at Sea level in Virginia. What's a vtec hose? Vtec kicks in and is very audible. Timing is in Sync, it was checked with a timing light. Vtec engagement is low its at 3800. I think its due to me telling the original tuner I road race and autox the car so he built a linear power band. Also the graph is about 1000 rpm off. My redline is at 8300. I'm new to all this dyno stuff, but I guess it needed to be calibrated or something.
stock injectors
stock fuel pump
stock fpr
that's why
upgrade to a walbro 255 and upgraded injecgtors 450-650 or if u plan on going boost (even if for diff build) later just go straight 1000cc
if never then get 450-650cc
stock injectors
stock fuel pump
stock fpr
that's why
upgrade to a walbro 255 and upgraded injecgtors 450-650 or if u plan on going boost (even if for diff build) later just go straight 1000cc
if never then get 450-650cc
I purchased some grams 550cc injectors after the original tune that I will install before the next tune (not sure when that will be now that tracks are opening up). However, I've seen plenty of people make 205-215 ish whp on stock 240cc injectors.
I purchased some grams 550cc injectors after the original tune that I will install before the next tune (not sure when that will be now that tracks are opening up). However, I've seen plenty of people make 205-215 ish whp on stock 240cc injectors.
with upgraded fuel pump and/or FPR jacked up from 43.5(stock) to 55-80psi more than likely
your running stock fpr stock pump stock injectors so theres that this is all speculation
but on top of that ur running tuner1 cams theyre mild
theyre just over itr and itr makes 200HP stock
ur 189Whp x 1.20 = 226HP
^^ again this is all speculation u ask why ur numbers are low i explained why also not all dyno reads the same
that 205-215Whp could read high
while your 189Whp could read Super low its just a number
run the 1/4 and youll know how fast ur cars suppose to be
look at this guys build he runs 11's https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/v...A0Eben--Ps1D2o
look
get skunk2 tuner2/tuner 3
pro1/pro2
walbro 255
and install your 550cc injectors
get a tune and youll make 200-220Whp/145-155TQ
or just use ur tuner1
walbro 255
install 550CC injectors
get a tune and youll make 190-210Whp/140-150TQ ish
Appreciate the advice. Just noticed I forgot to mention, I have installed a walbro 190 which is why I think its richer now, possibly the stock pump was weak. I do hpde's and autox. The number doesn't necessarily mean much, more so I want to get what I can out of the setup. I purchased some Jun 3 cams but shops stated I needed to degree those or just drop in and pray lol. but if I got pro 1's they could pretty much drop in and make cam gear changes on the dyno based on other motors they have done. I will install my injectors and retune.
It's not the fuel system unless the tuner told you had was running the injectors at 100% which I highly doubt.
I would also change the exhaust first, going to a 3" alone will probably put you close to 200whp.
Tuner 2s will also made a LOT more power in VTEC but retain a very similar low cam, but I see no reason you shouldn't run the Blox Cs you have now, they will make more power everywhere than the Tuner 1s, and you already own them.
Do the exhaust and the Type cs and you'll be happy I bet.
It's not the fuel system unless the tuner told you had was running the injectors at 100% which I highly doubt.
I would also change the exhaust first, going to a 3" alone will probably put you close to 200whp.
Tuner 2s will also made a LOT more power in VTEC but retain a very similar low cam, but I see no reason you shouldn't run the Blox Cs you have now, they will make more power everywhere than the Tuner 1s, and you already own them.
Do the exhaust and the Type cs and you'll be happy I bet.
Thanks, I installed a 3.5 intake with velocity stack, vibrant stealth muffler, and a wide band. Will be installing a different resonator. It will still be 2.5 but with better flowing components. I datalogged a couple of days ago. Injector duty cycle is high 96-98% at 8000 but AFR's are rich at 12.09. I have a HPDE and autocross this weekend. Next month I might drop in the type c's and my 550 injectors and get another tune.
03-20-2020, 09:33 AM
b20v Dyno graph. Suggestions ???
