siimporter

Hello all,

I've been trolling for a few days now on this site and I can't come up with an answer for my future set up on suspension. I'm a noob to modifying and honestly I know nothing when it comes to acquiring the right parts for my DD 2003 ep3.
I've come up with an Eibach Springs Pro-Kit 1'' drop and KYB GR-2/Excel-G - Twin-tube, Strut .
Anyone have a similar if not this set up ? How's it compare to factory suspension set up ?


I'm not looking to autocross only use my car as a DD. Currently on 16 rims and 255 265 16 all season tires.

thanks

B16-CRX

Personally I would not even bother with a 1" drop, but it will have a tighter feel with the upgraded springs and struts. It will have a rougher ride most likely, but in a good way. I'm lowered over 3" with raceland coilovers and they Ok but nothing great. They use the same spring rate as stock, so the springs don't feel any harder which is a downfall in my opinion.

NEO_FOLLOWER2

i think the ep3 needs a 1inch drop to look acceptable

stock it looks freaking ugly and high like a minivan

mustclime

1) kyb's are stamped togather junk.....sorry
2) lol at your tire size......tire size = (tread width in mm)/aspect ratio-rim size......so a 225/50-16= 225 mm wide tire/ with an aspect ratio of 50- and a 16 inch rim......

fyi, Eibach Springs are progressive, this means they start out soft than then stiffen as they are compressed. Eibach Springs does this 2 ways, the size of the wire used in the springs changes through out the leinght of the spring and the shape of the springs is such that as the spring is compressed, coils start to rest on each other. IMO progressive springs should not be used on macstrut cars. The reason for this is macstrut carshave a very small amount of travel where the suspension works well, lower the car a inch and this small window where the suspension works well is decreased........

our cars are under sprung, under damped and they have way to much 4ws for my liking.....my advice is install some koni's, and replace the compliance bushings with ether mugen or energy suspension....then get a 05-06 type-s rear sway bar with the bushings....

fr3netic

Wow, I joined just to reply to this thread. I did 3 weeks of intense research on dropping my ep3 1 to 1.5 inches and finally gave up. I'm wanting to do exactly what siimporter wants. I gave up because A) no one in the Dallas area knows of a good tuner shop which is trustworthy, B) I don't have the tools, knowledge or time to do it myself and C) everyone says that dropping the ep3 (even though they all do themselves) basically destroys its handling and performance.

Also, no offense mustclime because from your postings you seem to be a tuner god, but you're the main reason I gave up! All your posts basically say not to do anything to the ep3 unless it's the type-s suspension, but there is no one I can find in my area who is knowledgeable enough to install it. Also, what the heck are the following: macstrut, 4ws. And I didn't know a spring had a wire in it!

Another question I have: I can't get a straight answer on camber. Half the people say 1" on the ep3 won't require a camber kit. Some say it is only required in back. Some say it's required in back and you 'may' need it in the front. How might you need a kit if all ep3's are manufactured the same?

For the most part the answers I read or receive online are like when you post on a forum on how to do something in Linux. The replies are generally: RTFM you worthless noob!!! I don't have any tuner friends and it seems close to impossible to correctly tune your car as a novice or ordinary non-enthusiast.

slate13530

If you want a performance orientated EP with great handling then anything over 2-inches is not all that recommended. However, if you want to just lower the car then you can pretty much go with anything on the market. Yes, mustclime is correct about how are cars suspension are unsprung and the dampening is incorrect with a lot of aftermarket companies. Unfortunately, the best suspensions for the EP or correct setups cost a nice chunk of change.

Changing the suspension on the EP isn't something that you yourself CAN'T DO. It is not very hard to change out at all.

fr3netic

I would like a 1.5" drop and was looking at the Eiback sportline. Also, I'm willing to pay that nice chunk of change as long as it's done right.

And literally I cannot do it. I have a hammer and pliers in my garage and that's it. I could say the same thing to you about building a computer from scratch, which I could do blindfolded. That doesn't necessarily mean that everyone has the ability to do it.

DaveSi677

fr3netic take it easy lol...

Ok one yes everybody says that you can't lower an EP3 too much doesn't mean you can't lower it!
Anywhere from a 1" drop to a 1.5 will be good! The reason that dumping the car lowered then that causes handling issues is because the control arm bend and aren't straight anymore causing the car not to handle properly! Also it causes problems with the rack and pinion. Megan has a coilover with a straight arm which allows you to drop the car with out to many worries...

Any lowered car will always have some sort of problem in the long run! I got a coilover system and slammed it just to see how it looked and then I raised to a good drop. I was 1.5" all around with a good dampner. Remember you need to have rear spring rate double the ones in the front for the car to rotate properly.

Musty knows his stuff and I don't see how you can give up on his advice. He basically is telling you what he would do. I would do more research... better yet why don't you search a little and you would see that I created an FAQ for him with all his suspension tricks and tips at the top of the forum!

I also find it hard that in Dallas you can't find a qualified mechanic... thinking that Dallas is so populated compared to lets say Montreal where I'm from!

Don't discourage yourself bud!

DaveSi677

Don't get springs... get a coilover system! those springs aren't stiff enough and are progressive not linear!

primetimedx

Your best bet in this situation is to get some progress springs and Koni Yellows. Then a front and rear camber kit just for the sake of knowing after an alignment you wouldn't have to worry as much about premature tire ware.

If you don't want such a considerable drop, basically what mustclime suggests is to get the aspec suspension kit. Which i believe can be had for about $600. Now, it's not direct bolt in as you will either need RSX trailing arms, OR you can swap the rear lower mounting bushings for EP3 ones. Hell I have one in my house I could tell you the part number. You could bring the rears to any machine shop and have them press out the rsx bushings, and press in the ep3 bushings. then the kit becomes a bolt in affair. this way you are getting OEM quality, a nice drop on 16" wheels with stock size tires and a considerable increase in handling. The addition of a 05-06 type S rear sway bar and bushings is an added bonus as it can be had fairly cheap and is a considerable upgrade to the EP3 rear sway bar.

Right now, I am running eibach prokit springs on a set of very low mileage stock struts. The ride is very comfortable, it gives it a much better look then stock and it still handles good. I have not driven the car on stock springs so I cant compare, but for a DD it is a very comfortable ride, with Koni's Im sure the handling would be much better, but IF I keep the car indefinitely I am saving up to do the ASpec suspension swap myself.

fr3netic

I'm ready to pay cash today for the aspec suspension. I just didn't understand the whole bushing thing and guess I still don't fully. Can I use my stock ones in their place? So only the rear suspension really needs any adjustment? After that I can just take it to someone to install and align, or do i need a camber kit for the aspec?

Also, ephatch has a DIY on this. They say you have to precisely grind down the rear struts. This confuses me ever further. How do I tell a mechanic to do this or will they know? Is it like a 6th sense they have? :D

NEO_FOLLOWER2

im from austin.
i have the rsx aspec with front and rear camber kit
if you need help let me know.
i am doing hardrace front lca bushings also...but i have to get a shop to do it because i know i cannot get the bushings out myself.

its not hard of an install at all just time consuming there is a diy on ephatch on how to install the aspec

NEO_FOLLOWER2

i also have the rear lower mount bushings for ep3 brand new because

my original plan was to replace the ones on the aspec set up so it fits without having to shave anything

but a shop was going to charge me at least 60 bucks to push them out and put them in so i decided to just shave them.

if anyone is interest i have them brand new ...and i have no use for them

siimporter

Thanks all for the input .
I feel like me and fr3netic are on the same boat when it comes to modding our cars.
I have been researching and came up with 2 options.
1) http://www.clubrsx.com/browse/clubep...l=yes&limit=30
with
http://www.clubrsx.com/browse/clubep...l=yes&limit=30
and
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/sk-516-05-0510

2) http://www.racinglab.com/megan-racin...honda-008.html
with
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/sk-516-05-0510

I'm leaning towards option 2 but not 100% sure. I will do more research but this is what I'm leaning towards. Any input on these set ups would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

fr3netic

I looked at the Megans, too, but like mustclime and a lot of others say, lowering our EP3s below 1.5" is detrimental to performance. With adjustable coilovers you'd have to get an alignment and camber adjustment every time you messed with it, so it seems to be a waste of money for us unless you have a shop which will let you visit for free or you have your own garage setup. I'm leaning toward the a-spec suspension which is only ~$650 and is factory bolt-on (somewhat). Either that or the Eibach/Tokico combo. I've heard many suggestions for Koni yellows, too.

NEO_FOLLOWER2

i have aspec and my only complaint with it is that...

1. you get almost no "rep" for having it because the coilovers themselves look like stock
2. it really only lowers the car like 0.6 - 0.8, not low enough lol. i want like half an inch lower

pro's

1. it was cheap
2. oem quality
3. very nice ride quality
4. it is stiff when it needs to be
5. no adjusting ride height or strut stiffness

i personally havent heard anything bad about the skunk2 camber kit
but i know their rear lca has had bushing issues. so you might want to research that more.

i have the hardrace camber kit (ignore the review on clubrsx, it does come with the brake mount, at least mine did)

http://www.clubrsx.com/clubep3/HDR-6342.html

you could always buy the firestone alignment deal for $150
only problem is theyll only let you adjust camber within "factory specs"
but i keep coming back so much that i know them, so they let me do my own camber even if it doesnt fall within spec

fr3netic

Guess I'm not going a-spec, then. Thanks for that info! So, just to be clear(er), I know a 1" drop is great for the ep3, but I can't find a straight answer as to a 1.5" drop, like on the Eibach Sportlines. Is 1.5" too much or is it within limits as far as handling and being able set proper camber?

siimporter

So after reading up (Stickies- EP3/DC5 Suspension Tuning Basics (As told by Mustclime)

I will be going with the RSX A-spec suspension kit. I guess the reason I wanted Eibach springs was for the look of the 1'' drop it provided. But after reading up the "suspension tuning basics" stickie it makes sense as to why dropping our Ep3 is not a good thing for our cars.

The A-spec only provides about a 0.5" drop (so I've read) on our Ep's but I guess I'm mostly concerned about performance as apposed to looks.

I'll do away with looks if the car performs better then stock. Hell, any suspension mod will run better than my current stock with blown shocks .

So, I searched online and found this:
http://www.curryacuraparts.com/pro.html
It says it's for a 2002-2006 RSX. Would this model year be the one to get ?

I will also be needing dc5 tierod ends and the nuts. Where can I pick this up ? I searched but I'm not 100% sure what to get.

Since I'll be doing a complete suspension replacement on my car I would think it would be a good idea to replace bushings and such. Apart from buying the A-spec suspension/dc5 tierod ends and nuts, what else should I be looking to get for a complete set up ?

I would appreciate it if you could provide me with some links.
Thanks...

mustclime

NEO_FOLLOWER2

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...pension-on-ep3

instead of shaving the rears...you can buy my stock ep3 bushings and press them in

=D let me know i needa get rid of them...or else theyll just sit and rot in my garage.
i bought them brand new from honda.
i can provide pictures if needed

actually here you go

the other one i opened and never installed it. both brand new

reason for selling is that my shop couldnt get the ones already on the aspec out and they said they could do it if they can keep the car overnight but i needed to go somewhere that night.
so we opted to shave them...thus 2 extra useless bushings sitting around my garage.

fr3netic

Glad you settled on something, siimporter. Good luck with the mod. I think I want to go with Eibach Sportlines and Bilstein shocks.

mustclime, you work in or have a shop, correct? What would you charge in labor for a sap like me who walks in asking to have this stuff installed. Also, I would need rear camber sets I assume, although a lot of people say no camber correction is needed as the Sportlines' drop is still within Honda specs. Just what I've read.

**Edit: A month ago the Honda dealer I go to change my oil quoted me $550 just to change my 2 front strut bump stops. That's only for the bump stops, not new suspension or anything. Is that a reasonable labor charge? $50 for parts, $500 for labor.

siimporter

fr3netic

Thanks. I found a DIY link from a different site on how to install the A-spec, It looks really easy as long as it's followed step by step. Which I will be since I've never done anything like this before.
Maybe this could help you install them yourself to save some $$$.
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=a+spec

I was planning on picking up my suspension this week but my damn headlights are a piece of crap (ebay) that came with the car. I work allot at night so I definitely need new lights asap. I went ahead and purchased projectors that should be in next week .


I'll also be picking up a complete bushing kit and I'd like to install it myself to learn but since I lack the knowledge it might be best for a shop .
Since I don't really trust any shop in my area it'll be tough finding a reputable one.

fr3netic

I've been reading through that article for a year or so and it *seems* easy. I don't know how to torque, though. Is there a wrench that will give you torque numbers??? I don't know, lol. Also, would this guide apply to just doing springs and struts/shocks? And, if it is that easy, why did Honda tell me that the $500 labor charge for just the front is because it is incredibly complex and takes many hours and more than one technician?

siimporter

you can youtube on how to use a torque wrench. Not that hard to understand it.
As far as stealership's go. That's what they do. They charge a **** load of $$ even for simple maintenance work. Never mind a complete suspension replacement ouch$$..

It seems like you and I are on the same boat when it comes to trying to modify our cars. I too know nothing about it but I've been researching like a mad man and I am starting to understand a bit more then I used too.

All I can say before you decide on buying a certain part or trying to DYI is research research and some more research.

Buying parts just to make the car look good is what I was after. Now after countless hrs online I see that I was just like everyone else that was after the same thing. This is what parts manufactures are after. ppl that lack the proper knowledge to know what parts "should" be used as apposed to what "looks" good.

I'm still a noob to this but like I said, I'm beginning to understand this modding thing a little better now.

fr3netic

Aesthetics does push sales and can be detrimental to performance, but the a-spec doesn't even lower an inch from what I've read. At most it provides a .8" drop. Performance, though, is outstanding in comparison to stock. I've done quite a bit of lurking, too, and have found that the Eibach (Pro Kit and Sportlines) with Bilsteins are a fantastic upgrade as far as aesthetics and performance go.

Still, the A-spec is cheap and bolt on, but so, too, would struts/springs be, right? Anyone?

I got skooled about torque wrenches and stuff earlier by some co workers, too. I think if I had the right tools it may be possible if that thread is accurate.