G60 Carat

Is there an easy way to add DRL's to the Civic Si.

I recently imported an American Si into Canada, (we have the same car but it's SiR, and this was way cheaper yaaa CDN Dollar!) Anyways, as I know they are all made in UK, and I figured the wiring might already be in there for DRL. I might just need a different relay or different switch?

does anybody know if that is the case?

WhiteOnRice

Pretty sure all you have to do is put a fuse into the DRL slot and they will work (was this way with my Accord but it was made it Canada)

G60 Carat

Is that fuse in the under dash, or under hood fuse panel?

It was just a fuse we had to put in on a 2002 Acura CL we brought in from the US, the DRL system was in there, but no fuse. I was hoping it might be the same thing with this car.

Thanks again.

midwest aaron

actually the american models are made in canada. i'm don't think that car uses a muliplex system or a drl controler. i'll look in the book at work.

square_1

What? Canada? I thought they were made in the UK. I am pretty sure mine says like "made in Ireland" somewhere on the doorsill. Or maybe it says Honda of Ireland? I dunno.

johnclaunch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by midwest aaron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually the american models are made in canada.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The non-Si Civics are Canadian, not the EP3s.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by square_1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What? Canada? I thought they were made in the UK.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct. ALL EP3s were built in the same Swindon, England plant by Honda of the UK.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by square_1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am pretty sure mine says like "made in Ireland" somewhere on the doorsill. Or maybe it says Honda of Ireland? I dunno.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Read it again. Honda of the UK Manufacturing.

WyldRice

let me get this right...

The US NSXs were all made in Japan,
The US Civic Si's were all made in the UK,
The US non-si Civics were made in Canada,
The Canadian Sir's were made in the UK,
The Canadian SiRs are the same as the Japanese Type Rs,
and the Canadian Accords are made in the US
...oh, and the Japan Type R and Si were made in the UK.

did i get that right?

i cant wait to get a "MADE IN CHINA" Honda!
(READ about it here... http://www.edmunds.com/insidel...7002 )

johnclaunch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WyldRice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me get this right...

The US NSXs were all made in Japan,
The US Civic Si's were all made in the UK,
The US non-si Civics were made in Canada,
The Canadian Sir's were made in the UK,
The Canadian SiRs are the same as the Japanese Type Rs,
and the Canadian Accords are made in the US
...oh, and the Japan Type R and Si were made in the UK.

did i get that right?

i cant wait to get a "MADE IN CHINA" Honda!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What SiR is Canada is the same as a Type R? Canada gets the same cars we do with a few cold weather options (like heated mirrors). If we don't get a Type R or an equivalent, neither do they. The Canadian SiR EP3 was the same as our Si. They have an SiR badge because our EX is their Si. Additionally, they have a Civic trim we don't - the Civic Remix which is basically an LX coupe with the Si (our EX) body kit.

Yes, all American Accords are made in Marysville, OH. I also believe the model in Japan (Inspire) is also built in the OH plant. An agreement Honda made back in 1984 I believe, had all Accords built in the US. Now, the Accord and the Inspire split off at some point in the rest of the world, and we kept Accord badging and the size increases of the car every generation, while the Accord in the rest of the world stayed smaller (hence the TSX). America wants bigger cars, especially if they are going to dish out a large amount of money for one. Probably why the TL (based on our larger Accord) sells better than the smaller TSX (Accord in the rest of the world).

Every continent has different cars with different trim levels that work well with the demographics. Some cars share a name but are totally different somewhere else. The Odyssey in Japan still has four regular car-like doors like our original Odyssey, and the American Odyssey is the Elysion in Japan (based on the same chassis, but different bodywork).

It is uber complicated and one could write a novel on model changes and differences over different areas of the world for Honda alone not mentioning any other car maker.

As for "MADE IN CHINA". Hopefully not. Even so Sony, Panasonic, Nintendo and other Japan companies did so in the early '90s.


Modified by johnclaunch at 1:53 AM 1/8/2008

WyldRice

(we live next to Canada) i've seen a SiR up close and it had the RED valve cover,
...full Type R wing, and body kit...
making me assume the SiR's were the same as the Type R.
it must have been modified...

but thanks for the heads up on my SiR- type-R confusion...

i would never buy a "China Honda" ...their safety standards were the lowest, last i checked!

G60 Carat

If anybody is curious, we got DRL's by using a standard 12v 5 pin relay, it's a common relay for wiring up fog lights, etc.

The EP3 uses a negative (-) trigger to turn on the head lights at the underhood fuse panel. I spliced that wire into my relay which would then complete the ground (-) circuit when the relay is triggered. Thus turning on the headlights. I tirggered the relay off of another wire I found that made (+) 12v when the key was in the run positon only. By adding the relay in under the hood fusepanel it meant only the headlights would come on, and not the tails, or the dash lights. Which is important, since it also fades the lights on radio.

Thanks for the help, guys.

BTW we got the Civic home and it failed a safety inspection hard due to an imporperly fixed rear subframe (I knew the car was in a previous accident, but I was under the impression it was road safe now), the dust hasn't settled yet, but I can tell you it will be about $1500 to have it put right. I was actually able to get a new subframe quickly and easily (I ould even say cheaply) from my local Honda dealer but the hard part was finding a shop willing to take the work on. It's in right now, should be done anyday.

Here's how not to fix a damaged subframe.
(oh that grease spot leaking out the hatch was from a leaky bottle of oil in the spare tire well, another gift from the p.o. )