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This is just a question to kind of get an idea of what to look at when you start a build. So I guess I'll start off by asking the question. What is it that you look at first when assessing a build list? What do you choose first and how do you make these decisions. I ask these questions because my R is in dire need of a rebuild throughout and I need help with getting the ball rolling. thanks
This is just a question to kind of get an idea of what to look at when you start a build. So I guess I'll start off by asking the question. What is it that you look at first when assessing a build list? What do you choose first and how do you make these decisions. I ask these questions because my R is in dire need of a rebuild throughout and I need help with getting the ball rolling. thanks
Are you building it for some kind of purpose (track days, drag racing, etc) or are you saying it just needs a rebuild because its burning a ton of oil or something?
There are a lot of different ways to approach a build, also depends on your budget and how thorough you want to be.
Set an end game goal and budget. What do you want the final product to look like? Go through the car and find out what needs attention right away. Then decide if you want to replace each part with OEM Honda, aftermarket jobber or aftermarket performance.
I usually look for a goal for the car, originally in 2008 mine was to just have a clean car. That did a 180 and is now a full blown track car. Interests change over time. Look into what needs to be replaced/rebuilt first and thats exactly where you should start.
If its the motor - ordering, gaskets, seals, oil pump water pump etc should be first. Then if you are taking your motor to someone to build, they usually will want the block assembled so they can assess clearances etc. Then you can buy bearings and other things in the sizes he recommends.
I would first buy everything that doesnt need to be measured for clearance first, as mentioned above. Talk to your builder if you need new main studs, rod bolts etc.
it would definitely be a long drawn out process for sure. I would like it to be a functional track/weekend car. I want to be able to cruise to meets and such in it but also be able to beat up the track if I so desire. the motor needs rebuilt no doubt because it does burn oil, but it still runs strong and I do not really beat on it to keep it that way. I appreciate all input from you guys, it helps to have seasoned veterans to look to for insight.
So it sounds like reliability is a big factor. Not that building an all out monster cant be relatively reliable, but it can add a lot more stress and points of failure to the overall setup. Doing more of a refresh of the motor is probably a good route to go to ensure another 100K out of the motor without much of a hiccup.
There are some things you can do to see what the motor looks like before tearing it apart. Things like compression tests, leak downs, checking plugs, seals, etc. You can learn a lot about how the motor is running besides how it feels like it runs. Butt dyno doesnt always tell the whole story.
Going through a lot of oil can be a few different things. Anything from oil rings to valve seals to leaks and seepage so some testing could help point you in the right direction.
A simple rebuild with oversized CTR pistons, bore hone and rings, OEM bearings, oil and water pumps, timing belt and tensioner, head/block resurface, two layer head gaskets, valve jobs and inspection, slight port and polish of the intake and exhaust ports, seals and gaskets, etc. Those are the types of things that you can do to refresh and add a little pep to a mostly stock motor without breaking the bank. Much of it can also be done on your own, while other things like bearing clearances and head surfacing should probably be left to the pros.
If you decide you want a little more power and engine management, you can start throwing in some aftermarket parts like cams and higher compression pistons, rods, Hondata or a VAFC to fine tune the motor and fuel and add more power. Of course depending on your state laws, emissions and inspection may play a part.
I do want reliability out of the car yes, but Its not the end of the world if the car doesn't run for awhile because I have a dedicated DD. I'd like somewhere around 230 240hp so I have an idea of what cost looks like as I've looked into it before. luckily I have a trusted shop in my area where I know the guy pretty well so he will also be a lot of help as are you.
I've restored 3 cars so far. I found that the first thing I enjoy doing is restoring the interior. You get to still drive the car while you make progress on the car. Once the interior is done, I then focus on the engine bay. I pull the engines out, completely strip the engine bay of as many parts as possible - mainly to give the engine bay a thorough cleaning, as well as thoroughly clean each part that taken off.
Also, I try to coat as many parts with oil as possible to keep them from rusting more, as well as use anti-cease on the bolt threads so they never rust and get stuck just in case I need to take them off again in the future.
Is the engine in your car original? If so, I would keep it and rebuild it. If it's not original, I would just buy a used JDM long block and swap it in and part out the one in it.
it would definitely be a long drawn out process for sure. I would like it to be a functional track/weekend car. I want to be able to cruise to meets and such in it but also be able to beat up the track if I so desire. the motor needs rebuilt no doubt because it does burn oil, but it still runs strong and I do not really beat on it to keep it that way. I appreciate all input from you guys, it helps to have seasoned veterans to look to for insight.
How much oil does it burn?
These engines do use oil.
So, unless it's excessive then why in your opinion does it need a rebuild?
I still don't understand what you want to rebuild.
I get that you want to rebuild the engine...I guess? It burns a little oil, but it runs strong. So...why rebuild it? Check the compression and do a leakdown test first. The motor may be fine...and may just have stuck oil control rings.
How much oil does it burn? What type and weight of oil?
Are you talking about restoring chassis parts in order to make the car more track friendly?
What's wrong with the car that it needs a rebuild? Burning oil is a pretty weak reason. These cars all burn oil.
230-240 to the wheels in a B series makes it pretty much not a street car anymore. There is about a 200% chance that a B series that makes 240whp will burn oil, regardless of how new it is.
A K-series, however, will do that all day while yawning. The initial cost of a high quality K series swap is very high. Likely above $10k.
The beauty of this car is its simplicity, reliability, and the fact that it is actually nice to drive. To retain those things, if you really want 240WHP, you should definitely consider a K swap.
Do you live near any road courses? Why not just do some general maintenance and take it there as-is?
id like to rebuild the motor for the fact that I James bond smoke screen anybody behind me during spirited driving. The motor itself has roughly 45,000 miles on it. the rings never sat properly when being broken in and that's the main reason for smoke. using 5w-30 it's in Florida. I'm not certain on the amount of oil being burned but id venture to say between a quart or 2. I drive the car mainly Saturday Sunday timeframe or the occasional grocery trip. This was really to find out where you guys would start on a build or what you would look at first as top priority, I'd like to refresh everything in/on the car but I know it takes time and $$$ but over a drawn out process that's all possible. I have considered the option of k series but I'd like to stay true to the b being its an ITR and that's what it came with. This car is used for fun/weekend driving. I still want to be able to take it out any day of the week but if I wanted to track it I want it to be an option. Again thank you for all your input.
Try a compression and leakdown test on your motor. That will give you an idea of which direction to go.
I would not blindly rebuild things, as you can ruin a lot of stuff on the way.
The motor may just need valve seals or oil control rings. Thats probably the most likely scenario. Valve seals can be done without even taking the motor out of the car.
Again...an ITR that's nice to drive is better than one that's just fast. Unless its not a street car. People sell fast cars because the novelty of driving a fast car that beats you up will wear off. Cars that get kept for long periods of time are usually slow...but nice to drive.
To me, it sounds like you just want to refresh your weekend driven street car.
My advice would be to forget about the 230-240WHP that you'll never use anyway. Its not worth ruining your driving experience if you're using a B series. A 240whp B series will drive like **** and cost more than you care to think.
I have a K series ITR that probably makes 230+ whp. That's easy. The hard part is making it nice to drive again. I'm working on this by re-thinking suspension settings, spring rates, exhaust noise, etc etc etc etc. I just want to drive it and enjoy it. I DGAF 240whp.
that all makes sense, yes I guess I should have used restoration rather than build. I don't necessarily want to dump money into the car to "build" a racecar. Id like to like you said refresh/restore the car to its original glory while still getting a little more pep.
Yeah, 240whp is a crazy and reckless goal for a B18C . Trust me, I know. I had to stay true to the ITR and chose to build the original motor instead of going K. I got to 230whp all said and done. The same level of build on a K series would have been 280+whp easily and probably cost roughly the same.
Definitely start with the compression and leakdown tests. Keep in mind the the car itself is great in stock form. You could address any immediate issues then just hit up an auto-x or track day and see how the car behaves. Those results will dictate which direction you want to take with the car.
yeah after considering it all I guess it isn't that that big of a deal to put a K R-motor in it, after all it's still a type R motor haha. It probably won't be till the new year to start taking care of these things considering the holidays and all. thank you for all your guys input.
yeah after considering it all I guess it isn't that that big of a deal to put a K R-motor in it, after all it's still a type R motor haha. It probably won't be till the new year to start taking care of these things considering the holidays and all. thank you for all your guys input.
That B Serious loser had a CRX with a K20 in it. To say it was anything but insane would be an understatement. One could even say it was too much motor for the car....
11-17-2015, 08:06 AM
Starting a Build
. Trust me, I know. I had to stay true to the ITR and chose to build the original motor instead of going K. I got to 230whp all said and done. The same level of build on a K series would have been 280+whp easily and probably cost roughly the same.
