Ryan_C

So my ITR has sat quite a bit in the past couple of years. I had to drive it to work about a month ago for a couple of days while dealing with a hung up caliper on my other Honda.

The day I got my Insight's caliper fixed, the ITR was parked safely in the garage, but I had 1 more itch to drive it and it magically wouldn't start. So I let it sit for a day and tried starting it a day later. Still nothing. I can hear the fuel pump working, but every time I am wanting to test for spark, I am by myself until today.

Before I just start buying all the different internal parts for the distributor, does anyone have any suggestions on how to test the different components? Ignition Coil? Cap and Rotor? Any suggestions on which brands to stay away from?
I am looking for the various parts in the distributor on RockAuto's site and see an Ignition Coil that's pretty cheap...

ULTRA-POWER UF244
GSR, TYPE-R; GS Model
$14.86

Its the only one that has GS listed along with GSR and ITR. Is this the wrong part?
Are there big differences in ignition coils?

Sorry for the long story, its been quite some time since I have posted and visited. Help me out if you know anything about distributors.
Thanks!

gwh0803

I think it's the NEC solid-state relay (some calls it "igniter chip" due to shape) failed. It's a pretty common thing.

I got annoyed and replaced the entire thing all together with RPT full distributor for $350 CAD. (OEM SSR is $220 from dealer IIRC).

bigjon1378

iTrader: (2)

There are some very helpful videos on YouTube on testing the distributor internals.

RTW DC2R

Holy **** its Ryan C, long time bud. Hope you're well.

There was a huge distributor/spark troubleshooting issue at Expo this year but I dont remember everything that was done. I probably should have paid more attention.

Pump is coming on so its not the main relay. Doesnt necessarily mean its getting fuel though. Stupid question, is there gas in the car? Could crack the bolt on the filter to see if any fuel comes out.
Car cranks normally?
Im assuming you physically checked the cap and rotor already?
Any CELs?

Also check this specific to the distributor troubleshooting Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

Ryan_C

I'll check out the link on Team Integra. But to my luck, I woke up today to Frontier FiOS has an outage here in Fort Wayne.

Something I have learned is that there is never a stupid question. There is gas the caR. I pulled the far driver's side plug and wire and cranked it... my buddy instantly said he could smell fuel and said he could almost see it squirting out of the spark plug chamber.

I have the cap and rotor off, my buddy says they look like they probably need replacing. I have never dealt with these items, so wasn't sure what "looks" bad or replaceable.

No CEL.

Plenty of charge in battery, and it cranks over super healthy sounding. Reminds me of the time at MAM (Mid-America MotorPlex) back in 2005, my roommate's (can't remember his name) yellow ITR ended up having distributor issues after a couple of sessions. After an hour or 2 most people diagnosed it as that.

I really wanted to hit up Expo and make an appearance this year since it was only about a 2 hr drive for me, but have been working like a beast for the US Postal Service.

If pictures are easy to upload to this thread, I will snap a couple with my iphone.

Ryan_C

Primary Coil Test: 1.1 ohms (out of suggested 0.6 - 0.8 ohms)
Secondary Coil: 14.7k ohms (within suggested 12.8k - 19.2k ohms)

Not able to test ICM until wife is home or someone stops by.

But definitely need a Coil. Is the listed RockAuto the correct or wrong one?
ULTRA-POWER UF244
GSR, Type-R; GS Model

Or should I ask, will a Integra GS Ignition Coil work on an ITR? Sorry for asking and not looking, headed to work and no internet today at home.

Ryan_C

Cap

Ryan_C

Rotor

Ryan_C

Sorry for all the separate posts, but I couldn't get all the pics to upload on the original posting.

Tegra206

iTrader: (2)

I know this seems like you probably already checked it, but your battery terminals? Make sure they are nice and tight! GL with the fix!!!!

feck

FWIW Ryan_C I had issues with my distributer a couple of months back and it required the primary coil and rotor and cap and when the chap in my local parts place looked up various OEM parts supplier books that coil was listed for all B18c engines, European, Japanese, SiR, Type R.

Oh and when I say I had issues, boy did I have issues…



Believe it or not, she ran like that. The only symptoms were it killed two batteries in short order and after about 20 minutes running at normal temperature the engine would cut out. Wait ten minutes for it to cool and off she'd go again. I needed a new rotor as I had to use a dremel/file to get the old one off.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

HOLY ****.... Look at your coil... Where did the plastic coil cover go?!?!? Wow... That was a major problem waiting to happen!!!

Wait... So the car ran after it had sat and now its not starting??

feck

Oh I don't mind admitting I nearly pooed a little when I saw it DC. And not just cos I'm getting near the age where that is more likely to happen. It was rattling around inside the dizzy, or rather the burnt powdery chunks of it were. There was also evidence of arcing and the smell of burnt plastic in the cap and the rotor was completely fecked. Yep. And it ran like that for at least two months. I had a period where I was only doing very short trips so didn't notice the fault. I thought it was my heavy duty alarm system and other security that was draining the battery. These engines are scarily hard to kill. If I ever tire of the car(never), I'll have to shoot it with silver bullets and drive a wooden stake through the block. Just to be sure like.

Oh and Ryan_C, not sure if this helps as I dunno if you have Blueprint OEM parts in the states(they're part of the Bilstein company so maybe under a different name?) but their part number for the ignition coil you need is ADH21474.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

Holy ma jesus.... Def a scary sight to open your dizzy cap to...

So I has a similar problem in the beginning of this year with a dizzy's I was working on. One of them, I replaced the coil as we have mentioned, and everything was totally fine after that.

The other dizzy I had to completely replace after buying almost every part inside. Cap, rotor, tcm, icm... I took a chance and ordered a $100 complete dizzy off a notable seller on eBay and havent looked back since. Was having starting issues and also the tach was jumping all over the place over 6300rpm or so.... I replaced with this unit and had zero issues all year while daily driving.


Here is the link to the unit that I bought...

NEW IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR B16A B18C DOHC VTEC OBD2 B16A2


Also check that all your spark plugs are nice and tight

feck

I think my dizzy is similar to your other one. I've replaced various parts, but I think it's still acting up. Very good price in that link. Man they're so much cheaper over that side of the pond. I paid pretty much that in spare parts already. Even with postage which will hit me hard enough, it's still nearly half the price of a new OEM one over here. Thanks for the link.

Ryan_C

I received my new Ignition Coil yesterday and tried to install after work last night. It wasn't pressed together correctly so its to fat to slide into place.

But I tested it's resistance across the + and - terminals and its that same as the old one:

1.1 - 1.2 ohms

SMH!

RTW DC2R

have you looked into a new distro? not sure if Distributor King is still around but I had theirs before and worked with no problems.

Ryan_C

I clicked on the Ebay auction link and added that distributor to my watch list in case none of my effort pays off.

I actually made it through the entire Team-Integra tutorial and believe my Coil is internally grounded. The new one that is defective was not internally grounded. So just waiting on the replacement to arrive.

Actually if its just the Coil, this was quite the cheap fix!

rick_rabies

most likely the itr valve is stuck shut

Ryan_C

Follow up in case there are still some #TeamLazy like me....

Replaced the Coil along with the Cap and Rotor, and this Biatch started on instant I turned the key just like my Insight. So glad a $20 part fixed everything!

Overall, I spent about $50 for shipping and the Coil along with a new Rotor and Cap. All shipped from Texas. Coil I had to have a 2nd shipped to me because the 1st one was not pressed together correctly. The 2nd one almost got sent back as well... but I put my weight into the unit to get it to move.

Ryan_C

Also as I am thinking about this,,,,

I still got the same 1.1 or 1.2 ohms across the Primary Coil. Its supposed to be smaller, but the 1.1 or 1.2 allow you to open your blinds.

RTW DC2R

Glad you got her going

Good troubleshooting exercise